Overhanging Bastion

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greenbanktony 10 Apr 2019

testing

2
pasbury 10 Apr 2019
In reply to greenbanktony:

You are in 2019. Post rockfall.

 jon 10 Apr 2019
In reply to greenbanktony:

I just stumbled across Andy Prickett's photos of an 80 year old Harry Smith climbing OB in a pair of borrowed approach shoes, for his birthday, back in 2008. Brilliant:  https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/author.php?id=18988

Post edited at 20:12
 John Kelly 10 Apr 2019
In reply to greenbanktony:

Ascent and discussion on mountain circles facebook page

https://m.facebook.com/189325167779118/photos/a.189356774442624/23373152663...

greenbanktony 12 Apr 2019
In reply to pasbury:

Cheers pasbury, old bean. 700 words should be following today once I have mastered the fiendishly difficult (to this ignoramus, like yours truly) forum technicalities. Rick Graham where you?  

 craig h 12 Apr 2019
In reply to greenbanktony:

Good to see you're joining the modern world Tony

greenbanktony 12 Apr 2019
In reply to greenbanktony:

OVERHANGING BASTION REFRESHED

A great Lake District classic has risen like a phoenix from the billowing smoke-like cloud of dust that rose from the left hand end of Castle Rock’s North Crag at the end of November. It was then that that part of the rock face long suspected of being on the point of collapse broke away with a “hellish gurt big rumble”. So recounted Thirlmere shepherd Skelt Robinson who’d been hard at work in the sheep pens across the dale.

At the very edge of complete extinction, the legendary route of Overhanging Bastion survived – after a fashion .

Evergreen Keswick craggie Colin Downer - Bramcrag Quarry guru and pioneer of countless sought-after trad gems - subsequently roped-up below the battered and much neglected climb with fellow climber Cameron Fowler. Their aim? To kick start rejuvenating what remained of the route.

Not only had the topmost section of OB’s famous ramp vanished with its traverse out to the “dubious rattly flakes” and yew tree finish, but the rest of the route was in bad repair: with dead trees, loose blocks, collapsed ledges and choss spilling down the forgotten face leading up to the pinnacle that offers the cruxy stepping-off launch on to the celebrated ramp.

First climbed on April Fool's Day in 1939 by quarryman Jim Birkett with Charlie Wilson from Carlisle (whose ashes are scattered high on the hill across the way) and Len Muscroft (in his bare hands he could bend two six inch nails together until they snapped into four bits), World War II broke out five months later. Overhanging Bastion was to be then as similarly ignored during the ensuing years of conflict as it has for a complexity different reason been shunned over recent years.

Colin explains: “It's long been known that Castle Rock's North Crag was booby-trapped by an ever-widening crack splitting the rock above. It was said 1,000 tonnes of rock the size of a bungalow were poised ready to fall. Climbers put it into mothballs, preferring to scale routes on the sunny South Crag instead. OB looked so abandoned after the rockfall. Crying out to be resurrected.”

A former coal mine engineer from Mansfield, he has long been used to working in gnarly conditions. The experience helped as he and Cameron reclaimed OB back to its former glory. Now the climb looks cool even though being on the North Crag, it's only at sunset that the rays really hit the ramp. Easily spotted through a smartphone camera viewfinder from Legburthwaite car park (CA12 4TQ) some distance below in St Johns in the Vale, it's truly out there, man.

Jim Birkett’s grandson, Dave, needs no introduction to UK Climbing readers.

After OB had been restored, he phoned the Downer residence out of the blue to offer his congratulations. “I was made up,” says Dave. “Grandad Jim would have approved. So would Charlie Wilson and Len Muscroft. The line looks magnificent. I last climbed it with my wife Mary who was pregnant at the time and remember the beautiful ramp that breaches a way up the overhanging rock

I’ve since abbed down the rockfall line following the giant trundle and can see the extent of the damage that's left a sheer sweep of face over 50ft wide. But for now, it's granddad's long-lost climb that's back in the limelight . . . OB looks stunning.”

Chuffed to receive such praise, Colin says: “All I want to do is get people climbing again on this magnificent crag.”

Overhanging Bastion - Revised

Still “The classic route of the crag” - HVS 5a

1 33m From the lowest point of the crag climb a very easy slab to a tree stamp. Use this to step on to the juggy wall and gain a grass ledge. Follow the corner above.

2 32m (5a) Ascend the slab on the left to the Pinnacle (possible belay). From the top stride across and step up boldly on to the ramp/gangway and follow it more easily to its top. (NB: it was from here pre-rockfall the route then descended and traversed out to the left, before climbing the rickety flakes up to the recess with a yew. Now all gone.)

Instead —

From the top of the ramp climb up into a corner and ascend the obvious arête on flake holds to a ledge. Nut belays.

3 20m From the right hand end of the ledge, climb a wall on good holds to join the top of Zig Zag.

Colin Downer. Cameron Fowler. Alt leads.

4th January 2019

Newsflash (12/4/19): From the left hand edge of the ledge, a direct finish from the belay ascends directly to the top. (5b)

ends

2
greenbanktony 12 Apr 2019
In reply to craig h:

hahaha.

 Rick Graham 12 Apr 2019
In reply to greenbanktony:

Have a like. Got there in the end, Tony.

 Sean Kelly 12 Apr 2019
In reply to greenbanktony:

Well done lads! OB was my first ever Lakes climb circa 1971 so it's great to see it restored. Always though it was 4c in the good old days? Still a great line!

 Martin Bennett 12 Apr 2019
In reply to greenbanktony:

Thanks Tony. How are you, by the way? And thanks Colin too. I'd like to think I can get on it still, though I expect it to be with more accoutrements (and trepidation) than I had in 1966 when tied on direct to a No 3 hawser laid nylon rope I'd bought from a bloke in a pub for £2.00!

 shantaram 12 Apr 2019
In reply to greenbanktony:

Great write up Tony. Thanks for that. 

pasbury 12 Apr 2019
In reply to greenbanktony:

Bloody brilliant, I’ll have to get up there soon and do it again.

 Neil Foster Global Crag Moderator 13 Apr 2019
In reply to greenbanktony:

Great story. Thanks for posting Tony....

Neil

greenbanktony 19 Apr 2019
In reply to Neil Foster:

Yo. Thanks Neil - and everyone. Nice one. Latest word is OB is already receiving ascents as of Good Friday, just as it has done for years past.

 Shaw Brown 25 Apr 2019
In reply to greenbanktony:

Thanks for all the hard work, climbed the route on Tuesday night and found the bottom of the route in better condition than I've ever seen it. I found the climb from the ramp to the ledge a bit spooky  as the arete looks a little detached. The block that the 5b finish goes up looks slightly worrying too, worth a glass movement indicator cementing in? Great to be able to climb the route again. Cheers Shaw

In reply to greenbanktony:

Yes indeed a great tribute to a classic route resurrected. I used to really enjoy your Country Diaries so now I can look forward to some entertaining essays on UKC instead.

 jcw 25 Apr 2019
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Seems to be the UK climbers nomination for a Notre Dame equivalent. Unfortunately I'm too old now to do the restored climb: I've done the old version at least four times. Great crag. Great route. 

 HappyTrundler 01 May 2019
In reply to greenbanktony:

I take it North Crag Eliminate has gone forever ?  I was hoping to get on it one day...maybe I can, at the foot of the crag ?!...

In reply to HappyTrundler:

> I take it North Crag Eliminate has gone forever ?  I was hoping to get on it one day...maybe I can, at the foot of the crag ?!...


You can do the first pitch. Then if you go to Keswick Kong you can climb the tree. The rest is laid out below the crag.

DC

greenbanktony 04 May 2019
In reply to keith-ratcliffe:

Cheers Keith. Thanks. Appreciate you posting. I wish. Sadly can do only one more Uk Climbing offering. Watch out for Primrose Day Dihedral (without the 's'). I don't write as a hobby. Talk about being on a hiding to nothing. As Dr Johnson said (or words to that effect): “Only a blockhead writes for free.” Got me in one, Samuel, blockheaded as I am in every other way.

1
 Offwidth 05 May 2019
In reply to greenbanktony:

Hi Tony, haven't heard from you in years. The site needs more climbers like you, welcome.

 Cragrats 06 May 2019
In reply to greenbanktony:

Thanks Tony for a great read. Overhanging Bastion (HVS 5a) Castle Rock of Triermain Good effort Colin and Cameron for boldly going onto the north crag and putting in the work. Hope I see lots of climbers back on the face now whenever I drive past. 

greenbanktony 09 May 2019

Thanks Offwidth and Cragrats, a tonic.

pasbury 09 May 2019
In reply to greenbanktony:

Anyone else done it? How does it climb now? 

One of my favourite routes.

 joe.91 10 May 2019
In reply to greenbanktony:

I was there a few weeks ago and saw people throwing rocks off, I presume cleaning the area affected by rockfall. 

 Rick Graham 10 May 2019
In reply to joe.91:

> I was there a few weeks ago and saw people throwing rocks off, I presume cleaning the area affected by rockfall. 

Probably Dave and Will Birkett.

They have done a couple of routes up the rockfall area. Not yet written up.

 joe.91 10 May 2019
In reply to Rick Graham:

Aye I heard about that through social media. Think I'll wait a few more months before I go up that area though! 

 Rick Graham 10 May 2019
In reply to joe.91:

> Aye I heard about that through social media. Think I'll wait a few more months before I go up that area though! 

Good thinking.

greenbanktony 11 May 2019
In reply to petegunn:

GREAT STUFF, Will. Both your write-up and the photos. Spot on..

To complement your info, and to add to the history, these are the words Dave used in relating the story to me, confirming your description in every way.

PRIMROSE DAY BONANZA

On the first day of the Easter holidays Dave Birkett and his cousin Will put up two routes on Castle Rock's brand-new face, revealed by last November's bungalow-sized rockfall on the North Crag.

Granddad Jim would surely have said “good effort”. What with Dave and Will perpetuating the bloodline on the “new rock” adjacent to Overhanging Bastion (OB).

Quarryman Jim it was who after all first pioneered OB in 1939, a feat that made the national Press.

Jim also climbed the often cited “first extreme” in the Lakes with Harlot's Face.

Dave and Will's dad, Bill, first climbed together after Dave contacted Bill out of the blue - so they could climb together a 50th anniversary ascent of OB.

Talk about history in the making.

“Intimidating?” said Dave.  “Awesome would be a way to describe it. Overhanging and smooth. With some rattly holds.”

“Pro? Not much. One or two secret little wires on the E6.”

“Like a scab peeled off a wound?” “Very much so.

“The newly-revealed face is still raw. Nothing's yet settled down. There are still boulders and loose rock on ledges.

“We only disturbed stuff that impeded us. Plenty will have to be pushed off over the years ahead.”

PRIMROSE DAY DIHEDRAL

Stars potential = one star

E6 6a

25m

Named after Primrose Dihedrals (SIC) on Moses Tower in Canyonland, Utah (which Dave had climbed with wife Mary). AND the fact that both Primrose Day and Good Friday fell on the same day in 2019.

“Main pitch goes smack bang up the New Zone middle. It includes overhanging scooped corners. Got everything.

“1 peg. Holds are a bit rattly; not too well protected. Couple of secret little wire placements to be fiddled in.

“Cruxes are at the start and on the last move (where on the final handhold there are traces of the Araldite that held the Perspex 'tell-tale' gauges used to measure the widening crack before the crag gave way).”

Dave Birkett. Will Birkett.

Good Friday 2019, 19th April.

NORTH CRAG ELIMINATED

Stars potential = two stars

60 metres

Very Severe

“A beautiful natural line, the biggest natural line visible in years to come once the recent disturbance has settled down over time.

“The crux? For now the crux is the loose rock.”

“Potentially a terrifying route to anyone climbing at VS despite the climbing being easy. It will take years for Nature to take it course so the routes become established over time.”

1 30m. Climb the significantly altered original first pitch of North Crag Eliminate to where its infamous tree once stood.

“Loose debris everywhere,” Dave continues. “My advice would be not to clean the pitch. Scatter grass seed from above and allow things to consolidate, so binding everything on the ledges back together Nature's-way over future years.”

2 30m. “Follow the ramp/gangways from left up to right. To join the top of OB. Big wide cams will help. Crux is a layback up the fresh new rock of a wide overhanging corner, about 15ft high (a bit harder than Gimmer's Amen Corner). But above there are a lot of perched boulders to be pushed off. Beware.”

Dave Birkett. Will Birkett.

19 April 2019


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