UKH

'His gangliness' takes tips from professional ballet dancers. Spoiler alert, he's terrible but tries hard.

https://rockandice.com/videos/climbing/adam-ondra-does-ballet-the-secret-es...

And as a side note, has Ondra got the guinness world record for longest neck on the planet? Seriously looks like he's had those neck extension rings removed recently.

The ballet master states that people 'might find it funny to combine ballet with climbing' - but it should be obvious to most that they both have a lot in common, and that the degree of control and precision that a dancer has over their body position could only be beneficial to climbing. I'd go so far as to say that if a professional dancer took a keen interest in climbing, they'd probably become very good very quickly.

(I work with dance, among other theatrical genres, and am constantly in awe at the physical abilities of the dancers I work with.)

Not to denigrate ballet in any way, but you did both notice when that video was published, right?

I once taught basic belaying skills to a ballet dancer. No need teaching him basic climbing skills too. He just danced up the climbing wall. 

I met a group at my local wall from an Independent School nearby and got talking to their tutor. I had noticed that the girls in the group knocked spots off the lads in both technical skill and style. When I mentioned this to him he pointed out that the girls had done 3 years of compulsory ballet in the Prep school beforehand and he was sure that this made the difference.

It was published on April 11th 2019 - what does that signify?

I haven’t rechecked this link, but it was originally posted by Adam on April 1st. 

RIGHT. So we need a massive bucket of salt with which to take it

Isn’t there some legend about a ballet dancer who used to turn up at the Leeds wall and show the locals how to do it back in the days of Syrett and Manson and the rest? Probably in one of Dennis Gray’s books.

jcm

I know this was aprils fools but in all seriousness I think they ballet and climbing have a lot in common and this could be well believable

It almost seems like he deliberately botched the ballet moves, just for the sake of the April 1st joke (as I am sure he would be pretty good at ballet, a lot of dancers are very good at climbing as well)

yeah its a pretty well scripted video. which watched all the way through to the end, he reveals how it's all a bit of a laugh. But yes, I have often thought there must be thousands of people out there, especially dancers who have next to no body fat, who would be technically excellent climbers given the chance. I guess it's why a lot of gymnasts (Lynn Hill, Margo Hayes etc.) make a very good transition. 

I still can't get that image of him in a leotard out of my head though. haha.

He does see a ballet master for consultations and advice, though, to see if he can get even better co-ordination and efficiency of movement -- it's in "Age of Ondra", and mentioned here:

https://livellozero.net/adam-ondra-salathe-on-sight-attempt-and-training-fo...

I remember back in the 90s that some dancers with the visiting Russian ballet turned up at our wall (Birmingham) and were flashing all the hardest stuff...

OK - thanks for that!

A friend of mine does (and teaches) pole, and she is an excellent climber.  Core strength the likes of which I can only dream about