UKH

My girlfriend and I are going abroad at the end of next month and are planning to do a few multipitch sport routes. 

We are both competent sport climbers and just this weekend did a multipitch sport course to learn the skills we need. 

I'm thinking about heading outdoors in the UK in the next couple of weeks and I'm wondering if we can practice some of the skills we've learned to set the learning in place. Specifically, I'm thinking we can practice anchor building, belaying a second from above, and then abseiling off the route. 

Would these practices be considered ok to do on a normal single pitch sport route? I'm assuming the hardware (bolts etc) has the same rating as expected in a multipitch environment - is there anything else I'm overlooking? 

TIA x

Hi Dan, there was a thread about this last year which might be useful to read through https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/rock_talk/beginner_sport_multi_pitch-7510...

If you've got the skills already locked down there aren't any safety issues with what you're suggesting 

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In the thread mentioned by James there is a very good comment by Mick Ward. Well worth reading.

Even though you have already done a course in the UK, I would suggest getting an instructor for a day to do a multi pitch route with where you want to go on your trip. That will give you much more experience and reinforce what you have already learnt than you would probably gain on your own.

Doing it on your own is awesome and gives an amazing sense of achievement. But when time is limited and you want to avoid any epics and pick up loads of little hints and tricks learnt over many years, an instructor, even for a day, would be really helpful.

I see that you are climbing in the Wye Valley and there are some multipitch options in that area for you. Firstly in Wyndcliffe Quarry:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/wyndcliff_quarry-2731/finding_neth...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/wyndcliff_quarry-2731/oubliette-44...

You could also consider doing the lower tier routes run into the top tier at the left hand end of the quarry. This would be an easy and low risk way of practicing the skills you will need as you can just climb to the upper tier and walk off if you want to. 

In Woodcroft quarry (Wintours Leap) you can do routes which climb from the basement lift to the upper tier, for example:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/wintours_leap-51/out_of_your_tree-...

which is regularly run into:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/wintours_leap-51/forty_years_apiec...

to give you a 3 pitch route (albeit short pitches) which you need to abseil back down to get off. There are other similar propositions but I'll leave you to work those out depending on the grades you feel comfortable with. 

If you want the name of a local instructor, Jason Bailey at Peak Aspect is regularly doing days out like this for aspiring climbers. https://www.peakaspect.co.uk/

Hi Mike, thanks for these route suggestions- very helpful! I'm just wondering if you know of anywhere I can find more detailed location information for either of those routes mentioned. I've never been able to find much on Woodcroft quarry despite walking through it many times- the climbers club guide only lists about 5 climbs in this section.

likewise with Wyndcliff - both climbers club and rockfax guides seem pretty incomplete! I can't even find info on the big 60 that's mentioned in the description for finding netherdom. 
 

Any insight greatly appreciated x

Chocolate Blancmange Wall at  Horseshoe Quarry has a number of routes with double bolt belays halfway up, so can be done as two pitch routes. The longest of them need to be done as two pitches unless you have a 70 mtr rope and about 16 or 18 quickdraws from memory.

The routes are pretty easy - 4s and 5s so good for most people to practice on. The rock is far from perfect though so I'd wear helmets if at all possible and watch out for climbers above knocking stuff off. 

There are several multipitch sport routes on Llanberis slate but they are perhaps a bit hard to start on? Doing a multi pitch link up in Australia (Dinorwig) would be an easier slate option although the terraces provide unrealistically large stances.

Can recommend Creag Mhor by Loch Fleet which has nice intro two pitch sport routes:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/creag_mhor_the_mound-22979/

Yes there is a guidebook to Wye valley sport climbing done by Great Western Guides, available from Dicks Climbing in Bristol. It includes Wyndcliffe Quarry, Woodcraft Quarry, Tintern Quarry, Ban Y Gor and the sport routes at Wintours Leap.

I think you're over thinking this...

Go on holiday. 

Chose a nice multipitch that is

-> easy (ie a couple/few whole grades below your onsight grade).

-> not too long or committing

-> easy to get down from

-> no route finding problems

-> not in the middle of nowhere

Plan for plenty of time (ie get there early), take a head torch if there is the remotest chance you'll need it. Take a few extra bits of gear.  Take a nice packed lunch and plenty of drink.  Consider if you need descent shoes. Try not to drop anything. Use a guide plate. Know how to belay and ab without your belay plate. Remember to use sun cream before you set off (seriously - there's little worse than burning to a crisp with no prospect of shade for hours en route, don't forget your calves/heels which will be in the sun all day and are probably not ready for the UV). Take a hat (helmet)  Consider if you need to pack a jacket.

Pack a bit of abandon gear each (a maillon or burner carabiner) - you'll probably never use it but the minor reluctance you'll get from abandoning something nice is not worth factoring into the difficult decision you'll need to make.

Enjoy, repeat and work slowly up the difficulty / length / faff / route finding / retreat scale.

Agree a system of communication if verbal doesn't work.  Do this before you leave the ground. Do it every time you climb (seriously - it's quick and easy and if either of you has forgotten or climbed with someone using a different code it can make a lot of faff). Or use walkie-talkies if you have them.

If the event something off-plan happens that gives you a decision between doing something dangerous or seeking help - seek help first - it's usually available.

Try not to get your abseil rope stuck in a tree (other entanglements available).

If you're nervous start with a few 2 pitch routes where you can get down easily and practice the faff.

Don't drop your phone.

To be fair, you can do everything you suggested in the UK, and practice before you go, so that when you are on Holiday, you don't spend several days getting comfortable and you get the most out of your time off... that's not overthinking, it's being prepared...

What I still find tricky (after 40+ yrs) on multipitch is judging (and accepting) the compromise of safety, comfort and energy w r t technical difficulty. Which all relates to the implications of temperature, cramped/suspended stances & load carrying on longer routes. 

Consider alone the difference of efficient rope management - between a generous ledge stance and one which is suspended. Even achieving optimal rope management, appreciation of time allowance has a steep learning curve.  

Fact is, you don't go abroad to climb 3-pitch, routes, it's the all day outings which appeal. To take as example, I would propose the OP - climbing on Dent d'Orlu, E face, Ariege, where there are numerous possibilities at low grades up to 400m. Bolt spacing is frequently a mind bender for 1st time visitors. Otherwise it's a great site to learn how to juggle logistics and ability throughout the duration of a prolonged outing.

So agreed, pack in all available UK experience, then get ready for the next level on a long day which starts out hot and finishes cold and windy.

NB. Dent d'Orlu E face has a walk-off descent. The subject of sticking abseil ropes for even experienced climbers remains challenging !

Yep, personally I would say that although the "just go and do it" method is a valid one, and one (if I am honest) I followed, it's a higher risk strategy, just purely from the stance that if you are used to short single pitch routes you are far more likely to experience anxiety about the height, what happens if something goes wrong, route finding, bolt spacing as you say etc. Feeling comfy is absolutely about experience and whilst getting strung out leads to great pub stories, so does romping up something which you might otherwise have been papping your pants on.

As Mike has said, the latest (third) edition of Wye Valley Sport will serve for those multi-pitch options. It’s pretty much essential anyway for route descriptions and topos of single pitch sport climbs in the LWV: any other source will be so incomplete as to be not much use. If you’re local, and sport climb, I’m surprised you don’t have it already. 

Why do you need to practice multi-pitch sport routes? You can learn enough doing multi-pitch trad. Find some big mountain routes that are easy & pitch them. We never learnt anything that specific for sport climbs

Re the availability of information on Wye Valley Sport routes: remember that (i) the CC guide pre-dates a lot of the Sport development and (ii)  Rocfax guides cover a selection of the best climbing in an area so are likely to have complete coverage of every crag in the area. Just imagine the size of South West Climbs if it included all the climbing in the area it covers. The GWR guide mentioned elsewhere in this thread will be the best source of information.

The sentence "my girlfriend and I"

Unless your gf is simply amazing in all dimensions I'd suggest the better prepared and sensible you are on multipitch the better. At least when starting out. 

Everyone will have an epic, a benightment, a lost on the way down, a technical difficulty with rope work, a dropped belay device (do carry a spare each and know a friction knot for emergencies), a started too late, made slow progress, missed the last bus lift meal time etc etc etc etc. 

Climbing with someone with additional emotional attachment that they can carry home comes with its own joys and consequences. 

Good luck and enjoy. 

It helps to have a grade or two in hand.