UKH

 Lost Horizon (VS 5a)

Got the weekend at Baggy Point with the aim of climbing Lost Horizon. Getting a bit spooked about it for some reason 40 mtrs single pitch sounds like a lot if its sustained 5a being used to short little grit routes mostly of late. Any beta appreciated please reguarding gear or rests on it particularly about what I should save for the top 

It does look a bit intimidating but it's great when you get on it.  Solid finger jams and edges, good friction, reassuring protection all the way up (mainly middle-sized wires, as I recall) and decent rests between the harder bits.  You can also get an idea of the size of the crack at the top from the abseil if you are nervous, but it's pretty straightforward I think.  

great climb.

Take your time. May sound simple but spot your resting points in advance. Place gear and move up to the next rest. Very interesting route using different techniques.

beta alert - video of the climb below.

youtube.com/watch?v=mK5guRW8_jQ&

Enjoy.

... I think if you're brave enough to negotiate the North Devon coast / Croyde Bay Area on a summer weekend, particularly as things are at the moment... you'll find the climbing a 'breeze'...

Quite easy HVS, not at all sustained.

jcm

I don't know if I was climbing particularly well or something on the day I did it, but I remember finding it really straightforward and with loads of solid gear - so basically great fun. Just looking, my logbook comment was "very easy for the grade" and I rarely find anything easy for the grade!

One move of 5a.

A couple of 4c

Take a 3 inch cam 

And a 4 if super nervous 

You could probably place 3 racks of gear in it and there'd still be some placements left.

Great climb, enjoy.

Thanks all, sure I will be fine

Not necessary, you can do it all on mid size gear. But take plenty of quick draws

The top crack is 2-3 inches wide for quite a distance. (20ft?).  It's easy foot jamming but you are pulling a lot of rope by that point.

When I did it I couldn't pull my ropes after abbing down. Had to do the route in quite a few pitches with hanging belays using the spare bits of rope available to us. Rather spoilt the experience. If doing it again I'd take a separate ab rope.

Couple of weeks ago my Dad and me abseiled in to Lost Horizon and left our climbing rope in a bag at the top. Fortunately, a less senile pair arrived at the top and chucked it down for us. 

Later, their abseil jammed as you described and we were able to save (some) face by returning the favour....

Being slabby it is not really a strenuous route and has plenty of resting points if required. ( Having said that the VS in the corner next to it is a bit puffy! )

    Dave and Alan are right, keep a couple of larger cams back for the top section. It is not hard but is wide. Otherwise mid size nuts are fine.

    For me I remember two crux moves. One fairly low down (4c) but brilliantly protected, the second about two thirds of the way up. This is, imho, easy 5a. From an excellent big foothold you place some gear above your head then step up and right.

    Most people abseil in beside the route so you get a good look at it, ( cheating ? ). I've never had a problem myself but several times have had to help other parties unjam their abseil rope so they can pull it through for climbing. Just be aware of where you position the knot in relation to the rock and ensure it runs nicely before the last person abseils down.

   The route is gorgeous, some people are put off by the access. The first descent is easy but imho is worth leaving a line / abseil rope in. Often easiest to take the rope saddled up with you or running from your rucksack rather than throwing it down. There is a post at the top. 

    The severe to the right is a great warm up route if required. Enjoy!

Good to know, sounds horrendous! 

Thanks Mark, just the reassurance I was looking for. 

Great route choice. 
I’d recommend warming up on Shangri La which is Severe or HS I think. Great introductory  easier route that wI’ll give you confidence. 
LH has plenty of gear and is no harder than similarly graded routes. It’s 3 star classic status is for quality not “old school sandbagging”. 

Also you can actually climb down the bck and traverse the sea face at the right tide or ab down elsewhere. You don’t have to ab in down the route. 

 

Lovely video, thanks

Having been here twice before to climb it and my partner getting freaked out by the scramble (brought a different partner this time) I think I had built it up a bit much in my head, very straightforward climbing with loads of rests and even more gear. Thought Twinkletoes was better. 

Thanks to the guys whose abb rope we used and for the friendly conversation.

As was mentioned the traffic and number of people were way worse than the climbing (of which I was one I know)

Were you there today? I was there yesterday, horrendous amounts of people. Braunton to croyde took me 1 hour .

Yes done it today, not too bad for us as we are on motorbikes

Nice one! Definately the way to do it. Did you motorbike it the cliff top?

As long as it's dry - it also gets a lot harder once you're down there and you see what was below that descent!!!

Funny enough that was a topic of conversation as we were walking up the path, perfectly doable we thought.

Thanks to Baz and Annabel for letting us use their ab rope today.