Longest natural grit route Peak

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 Tom Valentine 14 Feb 2019

I suspect in England as a whole it might be at Widdop but what about the Peak?

Post edited at 23:36
 Luke90 14 Feb 2019
In reply to Tom Valentine:

This must surely be the winner, if you'll accept it:

Ron's Girdle Traverse (Stanage Edge) (E5 6b)

Edit with a little more context: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/complete-traverse-of-stanage

Post edited at 23:42
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 planetmarshall 15 Feb 2019
In reply to Tom Valentine:

For vertical routes, most likely something at Hen Cloud. There are several routes at around the 30m mark broken into several pitches, of which the longest I think is Borstal Breakout (E4 6b)Bachelor's Left-hand (HVS 5b) is a single pitch of 25m length.

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In reply to planetmarshall:

Pedestal Route at the Roaches, with the Neb Finish, must be at least 30m.

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 craig h 15 Feb 2019
In reply to Tom Valentine:

For vertical routes Dovestones Main Quarry would probably be a contender; quite a few 170ft multi-pitch climbs like Gail's Progress, The Whipper-in is 185ft, Too Tall For Dwarfs is 180ft.

Post edited at 01:34
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 mrphilipoldham 15 Feb 2019
In reply to Tom Valentine:

Don't Look Back (HVS 5a) weighs in at 45m straight up according to Over The Moors

 mrphilipoldham 15 Feb 2019
In reply to Tom Valentine:

..and quarried then something at  Dovestones Quarry or  Hoghton Quarry maybe? 

OP Tom Valentine 15 Feb 2019
In reply to craig h:

I climbed extensively at Dovestones as a teenager and know that they are probably the longest routes on grit (making the Three Cliffs of Llanberis look like "small beer" according to Eric Byne) but I was asking about natural edges

 Offwidth 15 Feb 2019
In reply to Tom Valentine:

Doverstones Main:  the classics in the waterfall area are strangely unfashionable for routes listed as 60m.

 ChrisBrooke 15 Feb 2019
In reply to Tom Valentine:

Central Climb (VS 4c) on Hen Cloud?

Post edited at 09:55
 Offwidth 15 Feb 2019
In reply to Tom Valentine: how little quarrying is neccesary to define your natural edge?

 GrahamD 15 Feb 2019
In reply to Tom Valentine:

> I suspect in England as a whole it might be at Widdop but what about the Peak?

I suspect it might be the Rhinogs.  There is Rhinog Fach South Ridge at S which is listed as 170m !

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 AlanLittle 15 Feb 2019
In reply to GrahamD:

The Rhinogs are in England in much the same way as Dovestones Quarry is "natural grit"

OP Tom Valentine 15 Feb 2019
In reply to Offwidth:

To keep it simple I'll use the name rather than trying to quantify the amount of stone worked free from its surroundings: so at Dovestones there are three quarries and one natural edge.

The same would apply to Burbage, Pule Hill and Ilkley.

Anyway, looks like Central Climb is the one

Post edited at 12:25
 beardy mike 15 Feb 2019
In reply to AlanLittle:

Is Wales not a principality of England?

Post edited at 13:25
 mrphilipoldham 15 Feb 2019
In reply to Tom Valentine:

I gave you a 45m one, how can a 38m one be the longest?

 mrphilipoldham 15 Feb 2019

In reply to Tom V:

..and if you bothered to look, Don't Look Back (HVS 5a) is up on  Kinder Downfall. Which is definitely not quarried. My follow up post was merely suggesting somewhere to look should you want to included quarried routes.

Post edited at 17:49
OP Tom Valentine 15 Feb 2019
In reply to mrphilipoldham:

Apologies, just realised what you meant. Good find . Anywhere near the landslip?

 mrphilipoldham 15 Feb 2019
In reply to Tom Valentine:

No problem, apologies if it didn't come across clear! 

I don't think so, I believe the landslip is just to the right of the buttress which forms the right hand end of the Downfall itself. The route's on the Great Buttress which is a good 40-50m away. Might be wrong though, I've only spied it from the top of my road through a big lens! 

In reply to mrphilipoldham:

I've looked at Great Buttress close up, and it looked quite scruffy. Mermaid Ridge opposite (which I have done) is much cleaner, and 30m long. The Long Climb at Laddow is equally good, or better, and 35m.

OP Tom Valentine 15 Feb 2019
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

I did a route which equated to Great Buttress as described in the old grey Nunn guide. Very vague and very forgettable.

Complete opposite (in every way) to Mermaid Ridge.

As for Long Climb, it has a lot of memories for me but I'll go  with Mr P O 's shout as the winner.......

In reply to Tom Valentine:

You mean the HVS on Great Buttress? It would be nice to hear from someone who's done it. 

It's quite interesting to find out which is 'the longest' but much more interesting to find out which is the best long route ... surely? Otherwise we end up with tottery, vegetated things with lots of tiers and ledges, and bad rock. For my money, that long meandering route on the upper tier at the Roaches (Pedestal + Neb) is by far the best. Then Mermaid Ridge or Long Climb.

Post edited at 19:28
 mrphilipoldham 15 Feb 2019
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Don’t Look Back gets a whole two stars so it must be worthwhile. I haven’t done it myself though that’s more down to lack of willing partners, rather than motivation..

PaulScramble 15 Feb 2019
In reply to Tom Valentine:

A traverse of stanage happened in the 1970s.

In reply to mrphilipoldham:

> Don’t Look Back gets a whole two stars so it must be worthwhile. I haven’t done it myself though that’s more down to lack of willing partners, rather than motivation..

Sure, that's just why I'd be interested to hear about it. All I'm saying is that, as a climb, it didn't look very attractive.

In reply to PaulScramble:

> A traverse of stanage happened in the 1970s.

But, fun, great climbing as I'm sure much of it is, it's completely artificial. Surely we have to rule out long traverses of this type, otherwise the long one at Pleasley Vale (excellent as it is) would have to be right up there with one of the greatest climbs in England? Even better, IMHO, is the Girdle Traverse of Bowles

 GrahamD 15 Feb 2019
In reply to AlanLittle:

Well true, but interesting that there is such a long grit route on our doorstep and so worth posting 

 Iain Thow 15 Feb 2019
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Surely when it comes to good meandering routes at the Roaches then Valkyrie has to win? 38m so quite a bit longer than Pedestal (even with the Neb finish). Still not as long as Don't Look Back though ( which gets *** in my 1990 guide)

I have climbed on Kinder Great Buttress incidentally, although just Great Slab, easier and shorter than DLB. The rock was fine then (80s) but it all looks pretty lichenous these days. Enjoyed Mermaid's Ridge too, as you say, a cracking route.

In reply to Iain Thow:

Good call. I don't remember it feeling so long because - nice as they are - the last 30 feet are so easy.

 Iain Thow 15 Feb 2019
In reply to Tom Valentine:

Only Mod, and arguably more scramble than climb, but Downfall Climb gets 60m on UKC/Rockfax, probably about right if you take the easiest zigzag line.

In reply to Iain Thow:

It's not really a climb though, is it? Just rather a weird 'scramble'. I did it once when it was very dry and it was such a non-event i can't remember much about it. If it was in its normal condition or in spate I think you'd get very wet. I was once there in winter with all my photographic AND winter climbing gear, but when I got to the foot of it, all the icicles were dripping with water and the whole thing was melting, so it was so unappealing that I didn't bother. I got some quite nice shots, though.

 Iain Thow 15 Feb 2019
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

I spent three days bivvying at the top of it one Whitsun (selling teas and coffees in aid of Edale MRT) and went up and down it a few times, in pretty dry conditions. I really enjoyed it as a route, but yes, more scramble than climb. It gets Mod, so technically it is "the longest climb on natural grit in England", but Don't Look Back is more worthy of the title.

OP Tom Valentine 16 Feb 2019
In reply to Iain Thow:

If it's graded it's a route.

Downfall Climb the winner

 Luke90 16 Feb 2019
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

> Good call. I don't remember it feeling so long because - nice as they are - the last 30 feet are so easy.

Not if you make a big enough mess of your ropework lower down. It's entirely possible to make the top section into quite a battle, I assure you!


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