King Kong

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 nuts and bolts 30 Apr 2019

Thinking of climbing at Winters leap for first time this weekend. Just wondering if anyone has climbed King Kong recently? 

What is the rock like, and also there is a comment on rockfax that there is a ban on topping out and the ab point has been removed so what is best descent?

Any other beta on access issues gratefully received.

 Dave Cundy 01 May 2019
In reply to nuts and bolts:

The abseil anchors were removed a few years ago.  I'm sure i did it last year and we topped out, no problem.  After the third pitch, you emerge onto a narrow path where you turn left, reaching a gate.  This opens onto the main cliff top path. Turn right to get back to Woodcraft quarry, or left to get to the top of the easy way down

 Dave Cundy 01 May 2019
In reply to nuts and bolts:

As for King Kong itself, a lump came off the base of the initial overhang, a year or two ago.  Makes it slightly more reachy but still E1 5b.  The middle third of the first pitch feels less solid but the rest of it is solid.  The only 'loose' bit is the short vegetated slope at the top of the second pitch, before you reach a tree belay.

I must have done it half a dozen times, it's a joy to climb.  The belay ledge is my favourite place in the wye valley

Post edited at 09:09
 Euan Todd 01 May 2019
In reply to nuts and bolts:

What Dave said - I climbed it a couple of months back. The rock is generally solid, apart from a wee section in the upper first pitch. 

We then topped out to a path, and took it left (facing in) through a very old gate and left to get out.

 ripper 01 May 2019
In reply to nuts and bolts:

I really should get on this soon. If only because there's a photo in my guidebook of a bloke on the route wearing the same helmet as mine (and I don't know anyone else who owns one), and the same t-shirt (again, don't know anyone else who owns one), and he even looks a bit like me with his body position/style - and yet it can't be me as I've never been on it!


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