Idwal Slab Ordinary Route to Cneifion Arete

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 jafferton91 25 Apr 2019

I have not found any concrete description of how to get from point A to B. Is there any available? 

Post edited at 16:22
 acrkirby 25 Apr 2019
In reply to jafferton91:

Two options for this:

1. Take the standard descent from Idwal down the abseil, at foot of abseil scramble up gully behind to gain plateau where Cneifion is.

2. Climb past the top of Idwal (several harder route options) then follow the top down to the base of Cnefion

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In reply to jafferton91:

If memory serves me right - at the top of Ordinary Route follow the large ledge to the left then ascend a series of rock steps eventually dropping down into a gully (via one unprotected move above a drop to your left - it is also possible to set up an abseil here should you prefer). Now you're back on hill walking terrain, ascend the gully bringing you out into a cwm. Cneifon Arete will be to your left.

Like I say, my memory is pretty hazy so maybe other posters can give you more reliable directions.

Post edited at 16:35
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 alan moore 25 Apr 2019
In reply to jafferton91:

from the top of Ordinary route, ledges with arrows lead up and left, circumventing the steep Holly Tree Wall. Keep weaving up small walls and large ledges until level with the bas of Cwm Cniefion, which is over on the left. Traverse ledges rightward into the cwm and walk across the grassy coire mouth to the base of Cniefion Arête.

 jezb1 25 Apr 2019
In reply to jafferton91:

Get to the high point of the way off after Ordinary Route and head right just a touch then follow your nose into Cwm Cneifion.

Ace link, enjoy.

 kaiser 25 Apr 2019
In reply to jafferton91:

Rather than drop into Seniors Gully via the polished descent, continue upwards from that point following the description in the Smith or Ciccerone scrambling books of 'Seniors Ridge Direct Approach'.

 Fruit 25 Apr 2019
In reply to acrkirby:

Re this ‘abseil’, go 10 yds further and use the easy scramble down.

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 oldie 25 Apr 2019
In reply to Fruit:

I avoid the polished descent just on the right (facing in) which is steep but has stonking jugs and large footholds.

 Offwidth 26 Apr 2019
In reply to acrkirby:

Its very odd that you describe the descent scramble as an abseil (even though some people sometimes abseil due to conditions or party experience). Carrying on up is much quicker in any case.

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 acrkirby 26 Apr 2019
In reply to Offwidth:

Well I'll admit to only doing the route once but when i did it (November) After following the descent path in gradually worsening rain for a while i came to an obvious ledge and a rock with about 5 bits of tat round it i thought, well that looks like an abseil to me.

Couldn't see an obvious walk off nearby though that could have just been the weather.

 Offwidth 26 Apr 2019
In reply to acrkirby:

Maybe if you've only done something once you might consider the wisdom of providing advice. That tat isn't always there. There is no walk off:  there is a steep scramble down and climber's left on jugs, from where you found the tat, and the altermative is an easy scamble up staying left of the upper walls that sit above the slabs.

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 Postmanpat 26 Apr 2019
In reply to Offwidth:

  As an aside, and probably a dumb question but what does "climber's left" mean (in this case).

   "Skier's left" is on the left when facing downwards. Normally "climber's left" I would regard as on the left when facing inwards and upwards. But what, as in this case, if the climber is descending and therefore maybe facing outwards and downwards?

Post edited at 18:19
 jezb1 26 Apr 2019
In reply to Postmanpat:

Climbers is facing in regardless of up or down.

 Postmanpat 26 Apr 2019
In reply to jezb1:

> Climbers is facing in regardless of up or down.


Yup, makes sense.

 Offwidth 26 Apr 2019
In reply to Postmanpat:

Its a steep scramble that forces you to face in (except for maybe the likes of  Mr Dawes). Climber's left is traditionally always facing the crag.

 oldie 26 Apr 2019
In reply to Offwidth:

Just to add to the confusion I still prefer the steep descent on jugs below and right facing in (climbers right) of the ab slings!

Edit; That's "rive gauche orographique" in my first french climbing guide.

Post edited at 22:08
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