Iconic route added to logbooks

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 johnl 02 Feb 2020

The North Face (XS)

I'm sure someone on here could log the second ascent.

For those not familiar with the classic film of the first ascent: https://rockandice.com/videos/climbing/climbing-the-north-face-of-the-uxbri...

In reply to johnl:

I remember seeing this at the time when I wasn't a climber, but still thought it was brilliant. I also recall that a Chouinard Catalogue of the 70's featured a similar spoof based on the factory's back yard. I can't find it on Google but I think it was the inspiration for the Baggy Point climb Chouinard's Yard.

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 02 Feb 2020
In reply to keith-ratcliffe:

"traversing off the dog's leg"

Chris

 Reach>Talent 02 Feb 2020
In reply to johnl:

Anyone hoping to repeat this route shouldn't rely on the footage of the first ascent for beta. The subsequent resurfacing works have made the route much more serious and I believe that the post box may have also succumbed to a road accident some years ago. 

pasbury 02 Feb 2020
In reply to Reach>Talent:

I love slab routes though especially when they're at 0 degrees.

 DerwentDiluted 02 Feb 2020
In reply to johnl:

I think I did this in about 1989. Hands free.

pasbury 02 Feb 2020
In reply to DerwentDiluted:

I’ve got a vague recollection of falling the whole length of this route when I was at Brunel in 1995, bloody miracle I survived.

 althesin 02 Feb 2020
In reply to DerwentDiluted:

A winter ascent can be quite tricky, I don't like to spray beta but there's a fridge sized block in Iceland that will take a tied off screw which gets you up to the bollard on the crossing and then a thread in the stormdrain grating if you clear the snow off.

Last year the route was ruined by gritters, let's hope that a bit of post Brexit austerity brings better condition for 2020.

 Prof. Outdoors 04 Feb 2020
In reply to johnl:

The North Face of the Uxbridge Road is indeed an iconic climb. It was also a seminal point in the breaking of the class barrier for mountaineering and climbing. The strong northern accent of Bert, the expedition leader, can clearly be heard. The route was a rebellion against Victorian alpinism and traditional upper class climbing methodology which placed the emphasis on the gaining of altitude.

Indeed, some people say that this route inspired a duo of working class rock climbers to cut their teeth on Salford High Street and Ardwick Main Road.

More grit to their soul, I say.

Post edited at 19:41

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