UKH

/ How many bolts on the nose belays?

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Kemics - on 05 Sep 2018

Been reading the vdiff website on big wall belays - https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/bigwall-belay/ 

And the recommended method requires 3 bolts. I'm trying to remember, do the belays have 2 or more bolts? I feel like several of them consisted of double bolts only? Or does my memory let me down. 

Anyone climbed the route and have a better memory than i do? 

dunnyg - on 05 Sep 2018
In reply to Kemics:

I'm fairly sure most had 3? Should be on various topos/trip reports though. Memory is slightly hazy. I think it was fairly easy to improvise around if there ever were two. Possibly not the most useful post, good luck.

Fellover - on 05 Sep 2018
In reply to Kemics:

Some have 3, some have 2, can't remember which is more common tbh. One of them is trad, top of P5 I think, unless of course you take the approach of running P5+P6 together.

David Coley - on 05 Sep 2018
In reply to Kemics:

note, on the vdiff page it says "If there are only two bolts, you can 'double up' your cordelette on one of them to keep your central point within reach of the bolts."

philhilo - on 05 Sep 2018
In reply to Kemics:

Mostly 3 as I remember but all 1/2 inch bolts so massively over engineered - they don't want bolts failing on the most famous route in the world. I think the foreign teams were the only ones equalising the bolts - connect them yes, equalise with a cordalette etc, no. Lead line fig8 into one bolt, clove hitch into the other. Makes life easier with the volume of stuff to have 2 or 3 strong points rather than one master point. 

ashtond6 - on 06 Sep 2018
In reply to philhilo:

good job you had big bolts ;)


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