UKH

/ Horseshoe Re-Bolting

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GravitySucks - on 07 Sep 2018

With limited time available due to the shortening evenings I returned to the old stomping ground that is Horseshoe Quarry, to sample the freshly re-bolted old favourites.

To be honest I was a little underwhelmed by the re-bolting, to be fair there were some improvements, particularly those difficult second clips that might leave you on the ground if it all went pear shaped, there were also glaring ommitions such as the bolt on 'Litany...' that no one could ever reach without risking an ankle snapping fall onto a ledge, where did they put the new bolt? why, in exactly the same unreachable position as before!

There also seemed to be quite a lot of unnecessary bolts that impacted on previously safe but 'spicey' nature of the lines.

But by far the worst mistake  was the positioning of the belay bolts, obviously the person doing the re-bolting was not a climber as they would have known that placing two staples six inches appart but at the same level would lead to horibbly twisted ropes every time you lower off... schoolboy error (can we have Gary's collection of Rams Horns, Pigs Tails and random bit of chain back please ?).

Only climbed on the main wall so dont know what the  rest of the quarry is like.

4/10 could do better.

JamieSparkes - on 07 Sep 2018
In reply to GravitySucks:

I don't remember there being a particularly trying clip on Litany Against Fear (6c), though not to say it's not there. To be fair, you could go and replace it/or add another clip if you think it's that bad, might be more productive than complaining. I suspect what you might find is that like almost all of peak lime, it comes down to the 3 rules: 1) good rock, 2) good spacing, 3) convenient to clip. 

Much of the time it's only possible to satisfy 1).

That aside, I'm very surprised if the popular routes on the main wall haven't all got maillon/ring combinations as they're going to wear out pretty quickly!

 

kristian - on 07 Sep 2018
In reply to GravitySucks:

As Jamie says.

All the routes do have mallion + rings but some of the routes still twist the rope badly no matter what direction you thread them. I was going to suggest at some point that an extra mallion is added to one of the bolts to slightly un-equalize the rings and allow it to twist.

Mick Ward - on 07 Sep 2018
In reply to JamieSparkes:

> I don't remember there being a particularly trying clip on Litany Against Fear (6c), though not to say it's not there.

From memory (left the Peak in 2001), little people such as me needed commitment to leave the ledge. I quite liked that. For me, it preserved something of the character of the original route (runout E3, if I remember correctly). But far better than the three drooping pegs which were only ever going to get worse. If they'd popped - and one day they would - things could have got really nasty.

Mick

 

Luke90 on 07 Sep 2018
In reply to GravitySucks:

Your complaints seem to be bordering on contradictory. You hate that they've removed the spice from most of the routes but you also hate that they left one spicy clip on a route? You sound difficult to please.

paul__in_sheffield - on 07 Sep 2018
In reply to Mick Ward:

I thought it was just me who thought that was spicy. That ledge weighs heavy when you’re making the clip! 

to the Op it’s ok to ab down and pre lace an extended QD, it is sport after all!


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