/ Heroes

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keith-ratcliffe on 12 Sep 2018

Two thoughts about climbing routes pioneered by your heroes.

Many years ago I found myself on Froggatt Edge with a group of mates and late in the day we decided to try Brown's Eliminate on a top rope. One by one we repeated the climb and admired its boldness and technicality but also respected its lead by the Master. To touch those holds that Joe had used seemed like pure magic and added to the thrill of the movement it made for a memorable ascent.

A few years later and I find myself on the sharp end leading Sloth on the Roaches. It goes quite well until I find myself on the final move up from the roof. I hang on for quite a while until the thought hits me that Don was here. I cannot fail my hero by not completing the climb and a few tenuous moves later I am on top. Thanks Don.

Having heroes/heroines is really valuable in all walks of life. Finding them in climbing helped me identify them in real life.

It just struck me that this is a 1970's perspective on heroes - who are the role models of the current era that climbers aspire to?

Post edited at 21:20
alan moore - on 12 Sep 2018
In reply to keith-ratcliffe:

I get this. 

Tottering up Marble Slab with Colin Kirkus in his daps.

Haunted by Menlove Edwards on the Upper Cliff of Glyder Fawr.

Fighting Upper Tor Wall or styling Priscilla Ridge with Aurthur Birtwhistle.

Shimmying up Birds Nest Crack with Aurthur Dolphin on film.

And wondering at the bendy legged rock genius who first set off around that blind Arête of The Fang at Tremadoc...

Post edited at 22:02

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