Goddard's Quarry (again) Right Hand Wall

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 cragtyke 08 Jul 2020

Whilst  mooching round Goddard's in the drizzle today, we spotted 4 routes that had been bolted up on the short wall opposite the main wall, up on the right just after the line of boulders. There are 2 fun jamming cracks and a wall and slab further left. They look like they've been there a while, does anybody have any details on them? There's nothing on GG's site but I've added them to the database. We only climbed the cracks due to the rain worsening.

 Gary Gibson 10 Jul 2020
In reply to cragtyke:

So even though they may of not been climbed, only prepared you climbed them anyway? Interesting 

Post edited at 08:12
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 Anotherclimber 10 Jul 2020
In reply to Gary Gibson:

> So even though they may of not been climbed, only prepared you climbed them anyway? Interesting 

Why interesting?

OP cragtyke 10 Jul 2020
In reply to Gary Gibson:

There were some signs of traffic on them and the metalware looked like it'd been there at least a year or two. Not some of yours then?

 deacondeacon 10 Jul 2020
In reply to Gary Gibson:

What's the issue Gary? Can we only climb sport routes that appear in guidebooks or your site? 

2
 Mark Lloyd 10 Jul 2020
In reply to deacondeacon:

Potential Route Stealing !

I hope your on the mend Gary

6
 deacondeacon 10 Jul 2020
In reply to Mark Lloyd:

What? So if I go climbing and see a line of bolts in a Quarry I have to check that it's already had an ascent before I have a go on it? It's Goddards Quarry not Rainshadow at Malham!

This isn't a criticism of you Gary, I'm extremely grateful for the work that you put in and I bet I've climbed 100 of your routes but this really is a completely new aspect to me. Couldn't the first bolt have a tag on it or something if this is the case? 

 Derek Furze 10 Jul 2020
In reply to deacondeacon:

I think tagging is a good option for places under development.  I was at Attermire earlier this week (in the drizzle) and there are tagged routes at the left-hand end.  On a recently developed place that is already getting plenty of traffic, it clearly helps identify things that are prepped, but not yet climbed.  Given the effort required to put these up, it seems reasonable to leave things for the people who have put the work in.  To be fair to Gary, the volume that he puts up might make this approach logistically difficult!

 TobyA 10 Jul 2020
In reply to deacondeacon:

I thought taping up the first bolt was standard for a project, or a bolted but not yet climbed route?

In reply to cragtyke:

Do you mean the routes indicated here on this overview?


 duchessofmalfi 10 Jul 2020
In reply to deacondeacon:

Go for it - you can't lay claim to rock by getting up early and putting your towels down.

[actually I can see exceptions to this but these only count where someone is actively working their project, if it's been left standing it seems fair game]

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 deacondeacon 10 Jul 2020
In reply to duchessofmalfi:

> Go for it - you can't lay claim to rock by getting up early and putting your towels down.

> [actually I can see exceptions to this but these only count where someone is actively working their project, if it's been left standing it seems fair game]

Well I actually don't agree with that. If you've gone to the bother of bolting it then you get the first ascent. My issue is that people aren't mind readers. 

 Stoney Boy 10 Jul 2020
In reply to TobyA:

Leaving the first hanger off is usually a good indicator. 

 Alex@home 10 Jul 2020
In reply to Stoney Boy:

As with the new line left of the 7a on the red wall as you walk in - that's how it was a couple of weeks ago anyway

 Alex@home 10 Jul 2020
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

From the description in the OP i dont think so. But I noticed the routes on that section and couldn't see any info about them. Anyone know anything?

OP cragtyke 10 Jul 2020
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

No Alan, they're on the opposite side to the 15 steps wall, below where that photo was taken from.

In reply to Alex@home:

> From the description in the OP i dont think so. But I noticed the routes on that section and couldn't see any info about them. Anyone know anything?

As far as I am aware the routes that I marked (and quite possibly the route mentioned in this thread) were mostly the work of the late John Allen. I am not sure if he completed them before his accident. They hadn't been reported or named I don't think.

Nick Taylor may know more.

Alan

OP cragtyke 10 Jul 2020
In reply to Alex@home:

That's what I was asking in my OP, they're unlikely to be someone's projects as they're about 5-6a. All the hangers are in place and the lower offs are oxidised, they've been done before as the mud/dust in the cracks is worn smooth in places!

I'm not claiming first ascents either as those details have been left blank when I added them to the database, in order to try and find more info on here.

 Gary Gibson 10 Jul 2020
In reply to Mark Lloyd:

So if someone spends hours cleaning and spending money to equip its ok to just do it even if they haven’t? If it’s a project then it’s only respectful to leave until you know if it’s been done or not isn’t it?

3
 Gary Gibson 10 Jul 2020
In reply to cragtyke:

Hi ALlan, one of the guys that cleaned them died a few weeks ago.

 Gary Gibson 10 Jul 2020
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Hi ALan, when I spoke to JOhn shortly before his accident he hadn’t named them and NIck and will name them when gets everything sorted but I think we just let the matter rest until it’s sorted?

 Gary Gibson 10 Jul 2020
In reply to Mark Lloyd:

Not doing great at the moment after the stroke, it’s going to be a long haul for me ifever get back to climbing?

 Gary Gibson 10 Jul 2020
In reply to cragtyke:

I can’t climb at the moment as I have had a stroke 

OP cragtyke 10 Jul 2020
In reply to Gary Gibson:

Thanks for throwing some light on the situation Gary, and all the best with your recovery.

 Gary Gibson 10 Jul 2020
In reply to Alex@home:

7b+ called Blue Funk by MArk Pretty and will be on my site soon

?

 Mark Lloyd 10 Jul 2020
In reply to Gary Gibson:

> So if someone spends hours cleaning and spending money to equip its ok to just do it even if they haven’t? If it’s a project then it’s only respectful to leave until you know if it’s been done or not isn’t it?


Blimey my comment was taken totally the wrong way, i was not endorsing project stealing, just trying to point out to the original poster that they might be unclimbed routes.

 CPH 11 Jul 2020
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Hi Alan

For the record the original routes on the bit of Goddard's that you have marked were trad routes Goddard's Direct and Goddard's Right-hand...Colin and Chris Hughes May 2015...as per Logbooks. They are now surrounded by bolts.


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