Glen Nevis Route suggestions

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 Annaproffitt 12 Sep 2022

Hi!

Me and a friend are headed up for some multi pitch climbing around the Glen Nevis area and are looking for suggestions of great routes that are about 6-10 pitches anywhere between S-VS. Potentially with a walk in that’s doable in a day rather than a bivvy 

cheers!

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 Mike-W-99 12 Sep 2022
In reply to Annaproffitt:

Here you go , Autobahnausfahrt (VS 4b)

All comprehensively covered in highland outcrops south(https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/books/highland_outcrops_south-1699) and/or Rockfax app.

 Offwidth 12 Sep 2022
In reply to Annaproffitt:

I thought  this was brilliant albeit I found it tough for S with concentration required for route finding

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/ben_nevis-16877/raeburns_arete-339...

 DaveHK 12 Sep 2022
In reply to Annaproffitt:

>  Potentially with a walk in that’s doable in a day rather than a bivvy 

There isn't really anything in Glen Nevis or on Ben Nevis that would require a bivvy. Glen Nevis is all cragging with generally quite short approaches. Ben Nevis has a longer approach (2-3hrs) and longer routes but still all doable in a day.

If you don't mind driving a bit out of the immediate area then Ardverikie Wall (HS 4b) is a must do.

 Mike-W-99 12 Sep 2022
In reply to Offwidth:

Some interesting comments on that one. Makes me wonder if they were off route. I personally found it very enjoyable.

 Gary Latter 12 Sep 2022
In reply to Annaproffitt:

On Carn Dearg Buttress on Ben Nevis, Route 1 (fairly short) or Route 2 Direct. A long committing route covering some impressive ground at the grade. Less than 2 hours to the base.

Alternatively, could always link lots of routes on different crags at Polldubh in Glen Nevis - could easily do well over 300m of climbing. Starting with Pinnacle Ridge (3 minute approach!). After high crag, continue further up the hill to the little frequented crags of Upper Polldubh.

I'll also second DaveHK's suggestion of Ardverikie Wall - superb immaculate rock in a beautiful setting. Approach, and especially the descent even better if you've got bikes.

 Offwidth 12 Sep 2022
In reply to Mike-W-99:

I think it's because UK lower grades are still a bit of a mess and comparing what people think at an easy graded single pitch venue with a big high mountain route (described quite sparcely) is a recipe for running into trouble. Even on mountain routes there are problems: it's certainly more than a grade harder than Bowfell Buttress, now given HS in the latest definitives.

Adverikie Wall is my favourite climb that I've done in Scotland. It's like being in Tuolumne.

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 Mark Bull 12 Sep 2022
In reply to Mike-W-99:

> Some interesting comments on that one. Makes me wonder if they were off route. I personally found it very enjoyable.

Me too. Gets little or no sun at this time of year though. I did it in late September after a clear night and there was ice on the first pitch and on the descent. I recall looking enviously at the folk on the CMD arete in the sunshine! 

In reply to Annaproffitt:

Have a look at the ticklist on UKC called-

"Glen Nevis starred - HVS and below"

A guide book would be advisable to help you link individual routes together. 

 TobyA 13 Sep 2022
In reply to Offwidth:

>  Even on mountain routes there are problems: it's certainly more than a grade harder than Bowfell Buttress, now given HS in the latest definitives.

Raeburn's Arete? Really? I thought it was rather straightforward at the grade. There's lots of it, and it was chilly when we did it, but I don't remember either climbing or route finding being difficult at all!

Now the Mantrap move on NEB up above... that has to be the hardest move on a Vdiff anywhere!  

 Offwidth 13 Sep 2022
In reply to TobyA:

Well maybe you were going well. I'm sticking by top end Severe and it made us think. As others say, if you read the logbook comments quite a few climbers have genuine problems. Bowfell Butress in comparison was more like VD with a short 4a wall off a ledge.

Verandah Buttress gets the honour of the hardest move on a 'VDiff' in case you have forgotten and I'd say the top moves on Commano Ridge were harder as well.

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