UKH

I see that Flake Ache, at Brimham, has been downgraded on UKC, from 7A+ to 6C.

This is a problem I’ve been trying, many times, in many ways of the years.  It feels as hard as ever to me.  In my experience it’s much easier with a longer reach, however 6C seems mean.

Can anyone explain the process for the downgrade on here?

Flake Ache (f6C)

Many of the comments on UKC suggest that the hand Jam method brings the grade down significantly. 

I'm 5'6 with a +2cm ape index and i can static this with a fist jam, its at the very limit at my reach and agreed if you have less span then that it will be harder than 6c but that is a small minority of people so the average grade is probably 6c

Sounds like you’re a similar height and span to me.  I can’t reach the jams while sat on a single mat but can get one (dynamic karate chop) jam in after going for the left heel/toe cam method.  I’ve still not made the flake from there though!  If I doubled up the mats, it would be way easier.

If that’s the reason, then fair enough but I wonder if anyone can confirm is this is the case?

My friend Tina is tiny (5') and she's done it with the hand jam method, if you're on insta theres a good group which helps share short beta for problems #short_climber_ beta 

https://instagram.com/short_climber_beta?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

https://www.instagram.com/p/CZjNoufthH4/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

i think i had my fat highball pad with me, might have helped

Thanks for that - I've had a quick look but will delve a bit more later.  Looks interesting, thanks.

https://instagram.com/girlsongrit account might be handy, they tag the climber’s height in the description.

PS I think we were on Blackstone same time last year, you were battling with one of the Hueco problems 😁

Thanks, plenty more for me to look at there.

I’m convinced Blackstone Edge hates me this year.  The last three times I’ve been either snowed or rained off as I’ve arrived.