fig of 9 or bowline on a bite ?

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 wayne1965 29 Jun 2019

I like both of these knots because they are simple adaptation of something we all know ... don't we ... but it means there are two pieces of rope clipped in ... getting more important as ropes get ever thinner.

Obviously the bowline does not get locked up tight (easy to undo).... but is there a downside compared to the fig of 9 ..... which is also easier to undo than a fig of 8 

anyone seen a study/report on these knots ???

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 Oceanrower 29 Jun 2019
In reply to wayne1965:

I always use a fo9 for setting up working lines where they're being bounced about on all day but prefer a rethreaded (not on the bight) bowline for tying in.

OP wayne1965 29 Jun 2019
In reply to wayne1965:

 found something here

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/113653396/knot-strength-for-acc...

suggesting that the bowline is significantly weaker than a fig of 8 ..... 

Then perhaps my question should be fig of 8 or 9 ???

OP wayne1965 29 Jun 2019
In reply to Oceanrower:

yes ..... I often use a bowline for a direct tie in ... especially if roping/unroping a lot such as for sport climbing.

 tlouth7 01 Jul 2019
In reply to wayne1965:

Why should the conventional knots be a problem with thinner modern ropes?

I'd rather have a single line threaded through my harness than two lines on a carabiner.

 muppetfilter 01 Jul 2019
In reply to wayne1965:

This is an older piece of research and mainly done on low stretch rope but there were tests done on dynamic rope.

http://www.hse.gov.uk/research/crr_pdf/2001/crr01364.pdf

 GrahamD 01 Jul 2019
In reply to wayne1965:

The choice of tie in knot is nothing to do with strength (all normal knots are strong enough) and everything to do with being able to tie them reliably wvery time. Ideally the knot should be recognizable as correct by yiur partner at a glance.

Personally I'm happy with a single bowline.

In reply to wayne1965:

>  found something here

> suggesting that the bowline is significantly weaker than a fig of 8 ..... 

> Then perhaps my question should be fig of 8 or 9 ???

All knots reduce the strength of rope and the figure of 8 was the knot that reduced it least in my rope techniques book. However there was no suggestion that any of this meant you should worry about it.


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