Eeek!

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 Offwidth 24 Jun 2022

I wonder what they were thinking? Abseil rope stressed over a bolt edge and complete ignorance of how the set-up works.

https://www.climbing.com/skills/rappel-dangerous-rope-technique/

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 CantClimbTom 24 Jun 2022
In reply to Offwidth:

OK.. it's a stupid way to do it, add completely possible unnecessary failure modes and they shouldn't repeat it. But is it actually that dangerous. The edges aren't that sharp, the load isn't too bad and bolts are strong.

Completely Stupid: YES, Needs education: YES, inevitable immediate death: NO.

Personally if they were doing something as daft as that, I'd be more worried about -- what on earth else are they doing?

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 jon 24 Jun 2022
In reply to Offwidth:

Yes, you're absolutely right, getting into the habit of doing that is a disaster waiting to happen - I'm sure you're thinking of the El Cap incident where three climbers died - but as Tom says the rope does not run over sharp edges in that photo. However if they got used to doing in that instance, imagine the consequences of doing it on this belay linked below.

Post edited at 15:22

 Ridge 24 Jun 2022
In reply to jon:

If the El Cap incident is the one referenced in the article, that was bolt failure rather than the rope running over sharp edges - one bolt failed and the rope slipped over the ring and remaining bolt.

 Suncream 24 Jun 2022
In reply to Offwidth:

Of course, even if they had threaded the ring, that's not redundant. I've always wondered how much more likely the bolts/hangers are to fail than the ring itself.

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 jon 24 Jun 2022
In reply to Ridge:

> If the El Cap incident is the one referenced in the article, that was bolt failure rather than the rope running over sharp edges - one bolt failed and the rope slipped over the ring and remaining bolt.

Exactly my point. Maybe badly worded... I was pointing out that the real danger in that photo was nothing to do with sharp edges, but everything to do with where the rope was threaded.

Post edited at 18:07
 Moacs 24 Jun 2022
In reply to Suncream:

The visible metalwork rarely fails (never?) and tends to be visibly bad if it might. The thigthat fails is the bit you can't see in the rock, or the rock itself.

Sea cliff pegs often look grand outside but are corroded shit inside the crack. 

If you pull test a bolt, it won't be the external loop or chain that fails, but the bolt can pull out of the hole especially if it hadn't been properly blown clean of dust.

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 Misha 24 Jun 2022
In reply to Offwidth:

Perhaps they wanted to spread the wear on the inside of the ring…

OP Offwidth 25 Jun 2022
In reply to jon:

Well I've seen damaged bolt edges on such belays and it's bad practice to abseil in weighted contact on any bolt edge.

 jon 25 Jun 2022
In reply to Offwidth:

Fair comment re the damaged edges, especially if the equipper wasn't very accurate when hitting the bolt home. But it is a very oblique angle. I'd have thought running over some rock edges would do more damage. But, you're right anyway, it's bad practice to thread the rope through there, full stop!


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