UKH

Hoping to get some climbing done this weekend in the Dunkeld area (weather permitting) and looking for some recommendations.

Hoping to climb HVS with my girlfriend so looking for something safe for her to second and preferably not poorly protected. 

Was looking at Coffin Corner and F**k Face, dependant on who you belive in the logbook both appear to be soft but also sandbagged at the same time... 

Thanks in advance!

Coffin Corner is well protected and straightforward if you can jam a bit. I have seen people not jam and just use face holds and that looked desperate.

F*** Face is ok. I remember small gear going up the corner but nothing desperate. I recall the second pitch having a short thrutch section just off the stance

At VS I thought The Groove was quite sustained.

The guy I climbed Coffin Corner with loved scrabbling up corners and thought it was great. I hated it and don't even remember finding any decent jams on it. When we did F Face, I really liked it, thought it was 4c and he hated it. Horses for courses.

For what it's worth,  Pikes Progress, The Groove, Springboard, The End and Wriggle all feel like good, bottom end HVS,s

Yes, Coffin Corner maybe the best HVS around there. As noted above, Polney has a ton of good VS routes so don't discount those. The Rut's a bit more sustained than The Groove so pushing HVS anyway, and really good.

Only climbed at Craig a Barns a couple of times as a brief stopover. The Groove, Springboard and The End – all VS (which should probably be followed by an exclamation mark and a winky face 😉❗) and all excellent!

Thanks all, I'll give the guidebook a good peering over and see if I can decide.

Coffin Corner is winning for me so far, be interested to see it in the flesh - hard to tell how steep it is from the various photos! 

The Hood is nice but the protection is not great on the top pitch from memory.

Coffin Corner is safe for both leader and second, and it's a good line with a nice open feel (by contrast routes on the lower tier tend to wander around a bit and suffer from the proximity of trees). CC is not steep, but as you will quickly discover, the slabby wall forming the right side of the corner is surprisingly slick. I think you'll enjoy it. 

CC it is I think, I'll definitely be back to sample the recommendations on here also!

One of my favourite crags and favourite villages. I did seriously consider scaling down and buying a small place there. If you are pooped from climbing you can either pick up some sarnis from one of the fine local delis, pop into the cathedral grounds and dine finely while you watch the salmon leaping in the Tay. Or pop up to the Loch of the Lowes and go Osprey spotting. Or drive up to the Hermitage and wander among the Douglas pines. Unfortunately the eccentric tea shop that used to sit just on the left as you came off the A9 has long gone.