UKH

Hi,

we’re going to be in Porthmadog over the next week and would like to get some climbing done but we have the dog with us. We’ve had her at the crag plenty in the past but we live in the county which Is pretty ideal. She’s very well behaved, no interest in livestock, happy to be tied up while we’re on the rock, doesn’t bother others at the crag etc.

So, any recommendations for 1-2 pitch, easy approach, quick descent, bouldering, trad or sport with stuff in the usual puntery mid grades, preferably with space at the bottom and away from too many sheep. 

Yes, I am basically asking for the least “north wales-y” crags in north wales.

Cheers!

Tremadog

Clogwyn Yr Oen and Clogwyn Yr Wrysgan in he Moelwyns could offer some good routes with plenty of safe ground for pooch to wander about. You'll be able to keep an eye on the dog as well .No worries of the main road like Tremadog and usually quieter too. 

tremadog - Pant Ifan in particular.  Descent path brings you back along the foot of the crag. Shady and quiet at the foot of the crag and enough flat earth

Cheers all, very aware of the road at Tremadog but it’s a long time since I’ve been down. Any more suggestions appreciated.

Awful suggestion. Given the nature of the crag it’s very easy as a pair climbing to move out of sight from your stuff. Not a problem when your stuff is a bag, big problem when your stuff is a dog. First thing I’d do if I saw an unaccompanied dog tied up in the woods is call the dog warden. 

IMO dumping your dog, however well behaved, at the bottom of any crag is a shitty thing to do. Even more so on a multi pitch route. 

Even if it's obviously within a temporary base camp set up by the people climbing?  
 

Depends on the dog.  Most will just chill out and sleep.  What is the problem there?

How would such a “base camp” be established? Still seems very irresponsible to just tie a dog to a tree and leave it for a couple of hours. If you saw a dog tied up for a few hours outside a supermarket for example would you not be slightly concerned?  

Most. I’m no dog fan, but I’ve had several experiences with dogs at crags which are all preceded with “this dog is fine at crags, it just chills out” to the thing going mental 15 minutes later, bothering me (e.g. running around me whilst belaying, snuffling around in the rope) to knicking my lunch and even getting quite aggressive. It’s an odd environment for a dog to be in, it has no idea what’s going on an is just left whilst a member of its “pack” does something it most likely perceived as being dangerous. I can only assume all of this would become worse on a multi pitch crag.

In short, I’m not a fan of dogs at crags full stop. But leaving one in the woods at Tremadog seems senseless to me.

Better than leaving it in a house all day whilst the owners are at work!

The Slate if you pick the right routes.  Mine used to join me on the top of Bus Stop which was dangerous.

Better than Tremadog where he once chewed a full weight sling and went down to Erick's for some tucker

Cheers again all, appreciate the concerns around dogs at crags, hence posing the question. Our dog is a lurcher who would quite happily sleep 23 hours a day and she’s been great at the crag so far but that’s usually county cragging. 

Tbh I expected more bouldering and sport suggestions than trad as they’re obviously easier to keep an eye out.

Bouldering suggestions:

Braichmelyn: 10 minute walk on the flat from the car, quiet and secluded glade in the woods for the dog right by the boulder. Can be midgey if there’s no breeze

Caseg fraith: 3 minute walk on the flat from the car. Have to park at the farm and pay a few quid, might be worth asking if he minds the dog. Lovely climbing including classic caseg fraith arete 

Tanygrisiau bouldering: a good day out dotted along the dam road. Furthest away is up by clogywyn yr oen (geoff’s Roof, may queen boulder), which is a 15/20 minute walk from the car park. Best quality rock is probably the lower tier, minecraft wall and bendigeidfran, which is about 5 minutes from the car park and another 5 heading up to tempest/ wedding bells on the incline. Probably lots of sheep about on the moelwyns but not such an issue with bouldering, just be aware. 

 Have fun!

Couldn't agree more. Dogs tend to be a pain at crags. I have seen well behaved dogs at crags but generally they are not. It's just not kind to leave a dog on its own, whether at home or at the crag, they are intelligent animals that need to be kept stimulated. 

Cheers for that Tom, we ended up at Caseg Fraith on the Monday which was ideal... Right up to the point where I pinged off and badly sprained my ankle. Whoops, 6 hours in Bangor A&E followed!

I spoke to the farmer and explained that the dog would be tied up and he was fine with that. In reality we needn't have bothered, she got there, found a sunny spot and was asleep before we'd tied her lead up. The only time she woke up was to come over and lick me whilst I rolled around on the floor swearing. That seemed to be more than enough stimulation for her.

Can’t help but feel slightly responsible; sorry to hear about your injury. Hope you recover quickly and get back to take a fitting vengeance on the problem by seeing it off in good order!

Absolutely. Might be a few months before I fancy a rematch though.