Developing a new crag. Do's & Dont's

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 Whytea 29 Aug 2019

Hello everyone!

I've been a regular climber for the past 4/5 years (although, not very good at updating my log book) and have always been interested in getting into crag development. 

There is a location near to my hometown which I would be keen to develop but I am hesitant and need some advice:

1. Who needs informed (the crag is visible from the town) i.e. local council?

2. Any issues that you may have faced that I should be aware of?

3. What reasons would there be for not developing a rock?

4. Are there any legal ramifications I should be aware of?

I have read up on route setting, bolting (the routes would need to be sport), safety, etc. but I feel the more information I have the better!

Thanks in advance!

Alan

 dunnyg 29 Aug 2019
In reply to Whytea:

Main one is make sure it isn't a SSSI (site of special scientific interest), this is both illegal and expensive if you climb on one you shouldn't! Also if you see any nesting birds, it is nice to leave them be.

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 Jack B 29 Aug 2019
In reply to Whytea:

Who owns the land?

Is it Scotland? If it's England/Wales, is it CROW land?

 Iamgregp 29 Aug 2019
In reply to Whytea:

I'm assuming you have spoken to the landowner and they're all good with you developing the crag?  Best to get access agreed first before an issue arises.

I guess other bits would be are you sure the rock is good for bolts?  Some types are no good, or can cause difficulty for drilling etc etc

I'm sure there loads of others....

Good luck, and good on you for taking the initiative!

You're going to get a lot of posts from trad climbers insisting that you need to investigate it being a trad crag first, and whether anyone ever climbed it trad donkeys years ago, and that you need to speak to your local BMC rep...   

In reply to dunnyg:

> Main one is make sure it isn't a SSSI (site of special scientific interest), this is both illegal and expensive if you climb on one you shouldn't! 

Someone ought to mention the SSSI status to all the 'illegal' climbers at Stanage Edge then! SSSI doesn't preclude usage. I understand your sentiment though. 

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 JLS 29 Aug 2019
In reply to Whytea:

My advice would be contact bolting activists in your local area and ask if they could offer direct help with this.

(i.e. Check who are the first ascensionists on logbooks at your local sport crags.)

The whole bolting thing is a bit of a mine field and easy to mess-up on many fronts. It would be good if someone local who knew what they were about checked-out the suitability of the venue and gave you some on the ground instruction in the process.

Post edited at 14:46
Removed User 29 Aug 2019
In reply to Whytea:

Are you sure you need to bolt it? I note from your profile you haven't been climbing for long.

If you don't then depending upon where you are, doing routes on it may just be a matter of turning up, abbing down to clean a line and then doing it.

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 dunnyg 29 Aug 2019
In reply to Stuart (aka brt):

I never said it was illegal to climb on all SSSI. "this is both illegal and expensive if you climb on one you shouldn't". Probably poor writing on my part, and an over eagerness to post and/or correct people on yours. Someone should tell people at Stanage to get some imagination and climb elsewhere though.

3
In reply to dunnyg:

> I never said it was illegal to climb on all SSSI. "this is both illegal and expensive if you climb on one you shouldn't". Probably poor writing on my part, and an over eagerness to post and/or correct people on yours. Someone should tell people at Stanage to get some imagination and climb elsewhere though.

It was a clarification on what you posted. Which to be fair, it needed, and to allay any hint of criticism, was proceeded with the "understand the sentiment" comment.

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 Toerag 30 Aug 2019
In reply to Whytea:

Don't bolt anything you or someone else can't toprope first.

8
In reply to Whytea:

Fill your boots, go ahead and bolt it. 

Don't listen to the bolting detractors. The country's supply of good crags is exhausted, any leftovers are not likely to be great, may as well have a crappy sport crag which people actually use rather than an unused crappy trad venue.

Hope it all goes well and your crag becomes popular. 

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 GDes 31 Aug 2019

Consider whether the crag is actually any good too. Are you bolting it for yourself, or because its actually going to be a good place to climb? Do other users see the crag, and will potentially find a load of shiny bolts a bit of an eyesore? There's some total shit out there that would've just been best left alone.

Speak to local climbers with experience to check that the local ethic is keen on bolting, and perhaps a second opinion on whether it's definitely best off being bolted. 

Get advice on how to bolt well. You'll feel pretty bad if someone hurts themselves because one of your bolts fails 


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