UKH

Morning , 

I'm confused as to whats the story with Willersley ?

Rockfax states that the Arkwrights mill have stated no climbing and it's only included for completeness.

But here online UKC states 

 "Restricted Access

The Willersley area is owned by the Arkwright Society. It is essential that climbers do not block gateways with parked cars and that disturbance is keep to a minimum. Access negotiations have been on-going between the BMC and the Arkwright Society, and climbers continue to access the crag. If you are asked to leave, please remain courteous and report the incident to the BMC."

So which one is it ?

TWS

If in doubt, go with BMC RAD

https://www.thebmc.co.uk/modules/rad/view.aspx?id=388

Or do the equivalent of that climber thing where you check the grades in all the guidebooks, and go with the one you want to boost/subjugate your ego  

None of my guide books are that old , and I've switched to rockfax app now anyway.

Looking from the logbook entries from this September I will assume the info on the BMC RAD page is correct .

Thanks 

As a general rule the phrase "....  have stated no climbing and it's only included for completeness." is used to cover a printed book legally. If the crag is in a Rockfax then it is usually fine to climb there but you may be asked to leave. 

Willersley is fine to climb on.

At the time of publishing the 2012 Peak Limestone guide, we had received some letters from quarry companies threatening us with legal action if we included them in a printed book so I was quite cautious. In the new edition I will probably include a access info more like the BMC version.

Alan

Thank you Alan .

Legal action!!! For what, incitement to trespass? I don't think that would be an offence, and any civil action would almost certainly have to show the quarry companies incurring some kind of financial loss.

Not been to Willersley for years (decades?), but the situation was always, climb quietly (no loud swearing, screaming) because the "god squad" who own the land are just across the river and we don't want to cause any offence (with possible escalation to access issues). But, that apart, it never used to be a problem to actually climb there.

Great summer evening crag.

For complicated family reasons I spent a weekend with the "god squad" across the river. It was a truly awful experience. Somewhere between Fawlty Towers and Silent Hill. 

It's the Methodists, and even as a lapsed-, atheist "cultural Methodist", those are my people you're dissing! Just don't tempt them with gambling or booze, and do talk about their centrality to the union and socialist movement.

They don’t like climbing for the same reason they don’t like sex; it might lead to swearing.

Is it ok if you promise not to enjoy it?

Wasn't dissing them; just couldn't remember which church it was

I have climbed there until fairly recent when I moved away. Generally, if you're not shouting and cursing etc, you'll prob be alright, we've never had any issues. If i remember rightly, iI took no notice of the rockfax as it says no access and then there's a photo in the guide of someone on a route there...........

Ive climbed at Willersley loads - most recently July this year. No access problems but parking is much more of an issue than it used to be. As others have said keep noise down.  Going to need a little drying out at moment I guess.