UKH

Usually, I have a fairly high degree of “climbing promiscuity”, probably at least 20 different climbing partners in the last year, for example. In good weather, I like to climb most days. While I do have quite a few fairly regular partners, being happy to climb with random people - pretty much whoever wants to climb at the time - certainly helps!

In the current situation, my take is that some risk of infection to or from a climbing partner is inevitable. Rather than being pedantic about constantly maintaining arbitrary 2m distances, climbing on separate racks, setting up weird inconvenient socially distant belays where it’s problematic to pass gear, labelling ends of ropes (!!!!!), it seems to me more sensible to adopt a pragmatic approach. I’m going to keep distance from my climbing partners as much as is reasonably possible and certainly hope to always keep away from other parties.

It seems to me that as some infection risk is unavoidable, the best policy is to limit number of climbing partners as well as climbing locally at quieter times/crags. So I’m trying to stick to around 5 carefully chosen fairly regular (hopefully!) partners. 

I’m not having much luck with this currently as my previous most regular partner now works full time as a doctor, two other regular partners are carrying injuries (luckily, one is still able to climb through it), another is cautious and doesn’t want to climb yet (fair enough) and someone else had their bike nicked!

My logbook suggests under normal circumstances, soloing represents around 20% of my climbing (feels about right - sometimes, I like to get out on the rock alone and untrammelled with gear). Lately, soloing has accounted for more like 80% of my climbing, and when it feels enforced rather than a deliberate choice and means inevitably repeating the same lower grade routes, it somewhat diminishes the enjoyment.

Tricky times for those of us who normally climb with many different partners. Especially so for instructors, who necessarily rely on this.

How are others dealing with it?

Soloing is all well and good for keeping social distancing until a hold breaks off...

I'm not back climbing yet (it's not allowed in Scotland just yet), and I don't do a huge amount anyway these days, but like you I think it'll be a case of just being careful, avoiding the silly risks and accepting the others.

Keep a reasonable distance where possible, don't climb when there's any sign of illness with you, your partner or anyone they've been in close contact with, don't share food, drink or implements, avoid busy venues and routes, go climbing with just one partner at a time, use hand sanitiser where practical, try not to put gear in your mouth!

It should be pretty easy to keep infection risk lower than it is during a trip to the shops. Although indoor climbing may have more problems.

Climbing has always been about sensible risk management, this just changes some of what's 'sensible'.

I don't see how you can abide by social distancing instructions and climb multi-pitch trad. Single-pitch sport, maybe, but not trad. Sharing belays, putting gear in mouth, etc. It's just not attainable. 

Obviously there are risks to soloing. It won’t be for everyone. I could sit inside instead. Personally, I’d rather accept the risks. Mostly, I solo routes with which I’m very familiar.

I saw all this coming and married my partner.

Mrs H is in an 'at-risk' group, so has asked me not to climb with partners yet. I'm very confident with a shunt, so that's the way I'll be climbing for the next few weeks.

Yesterday I had seven hours on the grit, set up nine bombproof top anchors, and climbed thirteen pitches (if the route was good and no-one was waiting then I repeated). It's not for everyone, but it cuts out the risk of soloing as well as the risk of infection. I enjoyed 2-metre conversations with other climbers and members of the public, which was a bonus.

Problems? Identifying routes from above is tricky, so I tried to look at the line of a possible Route 2 while I was on the ground before attempting Route 1. On one occasion a pair arrived at the bottom of a route that I was hoping to do, so I had to change plan. Probably best for me to avoid popular crags on sunny Bank Holidays!

Perfect solution!

Yes, I agree that’s a good solution - if you like that sort of thing

Definitely think flexibility on plans is the way forward at the moment. I’ve also been going to the crags at times when it’s unlikely to be busy. Seems like midweek daytime (preferably earlier in the day, especially if late in the week) or weekend evenings (when everyone is finishing or gone) works well.

Personally, I’ve never really found much appeal in roped soloing. To me, the rope is an important connection with another climber - I always prefer roped stuff when climbing with someone else. But when I’m alone, I just love the free movement unimpeded, nothing but me and the rock. It’s a nice feeling.

I do agree there’s a strong argument for rope soloing as a good solution to the current situation, although it’s not particularly to my taste.

Does Mrs H climb? That could be the solution.

I’m at moderate risk, so I don’t go into supermarkets or shops - or in fact meet anyone for any reason other than to climb, for the foreseeable future (obviously climbing is an essential activity ). So definitely looking to take things cautiously.

Mrs H does climb, and does belay, so I may occasionally ask her to belay me while I lead.

Unfortunately she hasn't the strength to second grit routes (too many vertical physical moves), so I'd have to ab down for gear, or climb the route again. Her perfect crag is Little Tryfan ... that will have to wait.

Her other favourite is Kalymnos, where we can find a 4 for her, close to a 6 for me. I've heard that the islands are now open; perhaps we could get there with a boat and a following wind....

Im one of the lucky ones in that my wife is one of my main partners so we have been able to climb almost as normal. We've also been climbing with somebody I work with in a job that's virtually impossible to social distance with, again we're lucky that a work mate is a partner.

The debate is raging out there, another friend and partner of ours has been blasted by some of his friends for going out this last week with someone, despite him taking what he feels are sensible precautions.

A lot of this contact stuff is a tricky one to argue but one thing most of us will agree on is that it's not business as usual yet. It might mean reducing the amount of partners, agreeing a distancing process whilst out or for some who are of an age or health that makes it too risky, simply waiting a bit longer. It's a personal choice and we've personally made sure we don't attack anyone for the choices they make.

Yes, definitely those who have partners or flatmates who climb are in a fortunate position. Haha, I'm even considering renting out my spare room to another climber, and don't particularly care about getting much rent. Just so long as they wanted to climb lots...

Also, it's great that most people are choosing not to judge others for their choices and it feels like the climbing community as a whole has largely been more supportive lately. Of course, there will always be a few who want to dictate what choices others should make and sometimes these people get angry and abusive too, though thankfully there seems to have been less of that lately.