co.durham sport climbing

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 jeffmearns 14 Sep 2018

Stanhope Dean[crag(25885,"Stanhope Dean

developing sport crag    could do with some second ascents to check grades

8 routes   with 4 bolted so far

 wintertree 14 Sep 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

Good work!  I’ve eyed that up a few times.  Throw up a 5.7 and I might even be able to report something useful back...

In reply to jeffmearns:

My parents live in Wolsingham. Glad to see some development in the local area. 

Looking forward to checking it out on my next visit up.

In reply to jeffmearns:

What is the bolting policy for Weardale/Durham area?

1
 DerwentDiluted 15 Sep 2018
In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:

> What is the bolting policy for Weardale/Durham area?

Can I also be the mug to ask, what's the grading policy? Why the US grades?

 wintertree 15 Sep 2018
In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:

> What is the bolting policy for Weardale/Durham area?

There is no developed climbing in weardale I think apart from a couple of bouldering sites and some winter routes in quarries that are traditionally top roped from rotten fence posts.

Teessald has a multi pitch trad on whin sill.

I can’t think of any local precedent for what to do with limestone quarries...  Nor do I see a worrying local precedent being set by bolting one.

Post edited at 09:31
 Lankyman 15 Sep 2018
In reply to wintertree:

There are a lot of limestone quarries in Weardale.  I spent a few days walking there last year and came across lots that would have been developed long ago in another area.  I did spot a few bolts on this buttress at Bollihope but couldn't find any info online

https://www.geograph.org.uk/photo/3853710

If I wasn't 'retired' I might be tempted to book a holiday in Frosterley.  Please drop the painted names (and US grading!). A good topo is all you need.

 wintertree 15 Sep 2018
In reply to Lankyman:

> There are a lot of limestone quarries in Weardale.  I spent a few days walking there last year and came across lots that would have been developed long ago in another area. 

Indeed; most aren’t on acces land, and a lot of them have lakes at the bottom though.  The Bollihope one is good roadside access and a dry bottom.  Always thought it looked rather chossy for my tastes...

> A good topo is all you need.

I agree.

1
In reply to Lankyman:

You are right - I can think of plenty of crags with horrendous top outs but would make fairly decent sport venues within Weardale and surrounding area. 

The pictured arête has been on my bolting wish list for about 10years! 

If these were in Peak District they would have been bolted up many many years ago. 

Perhaps one for the BMC rep?

 Lankyman 15 Sep 2018
In reply to wintertree:

CRoW access shouldn't be an issue (it only gives you a right to WALK on land not to climb/bolt on it so the status isn't really relevant here. Discrete climbing should be OK on the crags I passed by - apart from the Bollihope pic I'm not saying where - get out and explore (that's half the fun!). The wall shown in the pic has one (maybe two, I can't remember) bolt lines and space for more. The quarries south of the burn would also repay some attention (no pools).

 Lankyman 15 Sep 2018
In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:

Someone always gets in there first if you leave your list too long (I've had a few over the years). BMC reps shouldn't really be needed unless an access problem arises and that would seem unlikely given the locations and probable numbers of visitors to what are always going to be esoteric venues.

In reply to Lankyman:

Next time I’m up I’m packing my drill  

 

OP jeffmearns 15 Sep 2018
In reply to DerwentDiluted:

just because that's what I'm used to.... but no bother, I'll put the french grades up as well...  cheers

 DerwentDiluted 16 Sep 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

> just because that's what I'm used to.... but no bother, I'll put the french grades up as well...  cheers

Makes sense, you have inspired me to find a crag in the US, and develop it with grades like "mild very severe" "hard very difficult and, my favourite from old - "very severe - rubbers"  ;0)

 JDal 16 Sep 2018
In reply to Lankyman:

> CRoW access shouldn't be an issue (it only gives you a right to WALK on land not to climb/bolt on it so the status isn't really relevant here. D....

Er yes it does, it allows climbing (but not bolting), from https://www.gov.uk/guidance/open-access-land-management-rights-and-responsi...:

"People can normally access your open access land on foot. They can:

walk
sightsee
bird-watch
climb
run"

Apols for this OT response, but it took BMC reps a lot of effort to get it into the act so it's a shame if climbers don't realise it.

 

 

 wercat 16 Sep 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

that was my playground as a kid - we lived on Crawleyside - the escape lane (Britain's first?) was put there because of the awful coach crash in the late 1960s while we lived there

Post edited at 11:18
 Lankyman 16 Sep 2018
In reply to JDal:

No worries - I've learned something new. I wonder where caving would stand? It would seem odd to be allowed to walk over to an entrance and then not be legally allowed to enter.

 JDal 16 Sep 2018
In reply to Lankyman:

It won't have changed the law re going into caves, just access to the entrance. Presumably landowners can still block up the entrances like they can now.  Worth noting that whilst we have a right to climb, landowners can destroy climbing on the crags if they want (chipping/dynamite/muck spreader/blocking parking) so it's still necessary to maintain good relations with land owners/tenants, some of whom are totally unware of the CROW laws. There was an incident at The Stell where the landowner banned climbing (it's on CROW land). Some of the loudmouths on here were all for confrontation/mob handed type of stuff. What happened was that a rep went to talk to the guy at his farm, and explained the law re liability/climbing and now we have good access with better parking and no issues and a happy farmer.

In reply to jeffmearns:

Is this crag on CROW land? 

Have you had any contact with the landowner? 

Interesting to know and don’t mean the questions to come across aggressive. 

OP jeffmearns 17 Sep 2018
In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:

hello there sam....   as per the description, its on private land which is used daily by local dog walkers and hikers without incident

 Ian W 17 Sep 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

Franco Cookson and Mike Conlon are the NE area access reps - maybe fwd to them to see what if any issues there may be?

 

1
 krikoman 17 Sep 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

This might be a good place to bolt https://goo.gl/maps/2LWsJ98At8n

 

OP jeffmearns 17 Sep 2018
In reply to Ian W:

it seems this post has been hijacked by access issues for some reason...  i was merely inviting anyone to come and check the grades and do a bit of climbing on lovely rock

 krikoman 20 Sep 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

> it seems this post has been hijacked by access issues for some reason...  i was merely inviting anyone to come and check the grades and do a bit of climbing on lovely rock


Ha ha welcome to UKC

It's not as bad as it may appear, at first.

OP jeffmearns 24 Sep 2018
In reply to krikoman:

well mate   we have no visitors yet....   perhaps its too far from durham?   anyway,  plan more routes 4 next weekend.... not to mention the quarry next door....   upwards and onwards eh....

 wercat 24 Sep 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

ahem, I seem to remember our dog falling off the top at one end of it, many, many, many years ago.

> hello there sam....   as per the description, its on private land which is used daily by local dog walkers and hikers without incident

 

 krikoman 24 Sep 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

> well mate   we have no visitors yet....   perhaps its too far from durham? 

too far away from here for me

 

 

In reply to jeffmearns:

send it over to climbonline.co.uk bit of a north east route database and news of new routes/areas.

 

might get you some visitors.

 

In reply to jeffmearns:

You need to give much better approach notes and map reference. 

 

Went down to to check these out and couldn’t find the crag. There is so much rock in Stanhope Dean. 

OP jeffmearns 01 Oct 2018
In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:

sorry about that sam? we had visitors yesterday who found it with no problem... its the first quarry in  about 400 yards from the main road

 KS132 01 Oct 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

Looking forward to taking a look at this Crag soon.... great to see some more climbing in the area. 

OP jeffmearns 01 Oct 2018
In reply to KS132:

look forward to seeing you here.    feel free to drop me a message if you want a tour/belayer....  hopefully putting some more routes up tomorrow!

OP jeffmearns 03 Oct 2018

9 routes bolted now...   plenty more to come... still no 2nd ascents

 

 PATTISON Bill 03 Oct 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

Members of the old Yackley Climbing Cub free climbed in Stanhope Dean in the 60s,I remember finishing a route the with the aid of one of our cars headlights.Great  boulderiing in the little quarry at the top of the dean best approached from Crawleyside.

OP jeffmearns 03 Oct 2018
In reply to PATTISON Bill:

bill    there is an old sling and a karibena in a tree at the top of the crag...  you must have left one!  I'll go and check that bouldering out, cheers

 PATTISON Bill 03 Oct 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

Not guilty ,we were too tight to leave gear behind except for a peg in the right wall of Jacks Scar in Teesdale which try as I might I couldnt retrieve.Happy Days.Enjoy.

OP jeffmearns 06 Oct 2018

10 routes bolted now...

 

OP jeffmearns 12 Oct 2018

now 11 bolted...  more on the way    could still do with a few grades checked if anyone's interested?

 

 RD 13 Oct 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

I'd be interested when the weather improves. I live in Lanchester. Can you provide the details?

 

 

OP jeffmearns 13 Oct 2018
In reply to RD:

brilliant!   i've sent you a message    cheers

 RD 13 Oct 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

Hi

I'm thinking of having a look tomorrow. Not sure if the weather would allow climbing though. By the way I have quite a lot of bolts that I've never used.

 deacondeacon 13 Oct 2018
In reply to Lankyman:

> Please drop the painted names (and US grading!). 

 

Painted names? Really? 

 

OP jeffmearns 13 Oct 2018
In reply to RD:

the weather looks shocking tomorrow...   but if you're coming over drop me a message and I'll head up to the crag

 RD 14 Oct 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

Going to have a look and walk the dogs. Should be there at 11ish.

 RD 14 Oct 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

Went early and did 6 of the lines.

Well impressed excellent limestone 25mins from home.

Tons more potential here. Had a walk into Ashes Quarry. Wow. Even more and better quality rock.

OP jeffmearns 14 Oct 2018
In reply to RD:

im really chuffed that you enjoyed it

 mariner 07 Nov 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

Visited the crag on Mon 5th, could have picked some better weather though as we spent the whole day shrouded on mist, rock was dry but ground damp.

Led 5 of the easier lines in the Barney's Buttress sector and I felt the grades were maybe one grade too high.

Enjoyed the climbing and will visit again hopefully on a sunny day.

The crag needs more traffic to clean the routes and as with any new crag there is still some loose rock to watch out for.

 JDal 08 Nov 2018
In reply to RD:

...

> Tons more potential here. Had a walk into Ashes Quarry. Wow. Even more and better quality rock.

It'd be a good idea to give Ashes Quarry a miss, it has some VERY important Plants/Lichens both on the floor and on the walls and is a well known site in the community who are involved o that sort of study, although for some reason it isn't an SSSI.

 

 RD 12 Nov 2018
In reply to JDal:

Added another 5 new routes this weekend. 5c to 7a+.

The walls dry very quick and soon catch the sun. On Saturday in the sun it was tee shirt weather.

Much better than a climbing wall. Come and try and post comments.

 

 

 Geordie 17 Nov 2018
In reply to RD:

Been this afternoon. Worth a visit. Rock seems similar to Trowbarrow. Very well bolted. Catches the sun and sheltered from the wind. Some routes are a bit 'scruffy' but will clean up. Hopefully there will be a topo soon !!

No worse than Bram Crag. So it'll soon be the most popular crag in the North -East !!!!!!!!!!!!!

….. and Jeff ……. it's 'Dene' !!

 WJM 17 Nov 2018

We had a decent few hours up there today. T Shirt weather for some of the time . More traffic needed but some good rock and lines . Dries quickly as yesterday fairly miserable in the N of England.

 

In reply to jeffmearns:

just got back from a quick climb before the snow started. Great little crag with some lovely routes. 

Really enjoyed the place and would be lovely when the weather is nice.

 

 Bob Bennett 15 Dec 2018
In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:

Did a few routes trad in Frosterley Quarry in the early `80 s. Rock a bit blocky but would be better with a few bolts. Most  were near the little bridge that crosses the quarry. 

In reply to Bob Bennett:

Yeah my dad pointed that crag out on the way back but the landowner doesn’t want climbers which is a shame. Loads of good potential sport venues in the area.

 

OP jeffmearns 16 Dec 2018
In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:

Hey Sam  really pleased you enjoyed it. We where up on Saturday for an hour or two intending to try a new route but after giving it a good clean my hands were numb!  So, chapeau for actually climbing something - awesome!

In reply to jeffmearns:

We must have just missed you. We we arrived around 11:30 and climbed till 2pm. 

Might head there tomoorow again if the weather holds off! 

In reply to jeffmearns:

We must have just missed you. We we arrived around 11:30 and climbed till 2pm. 

Might head there tomoorow again if the weather holds off! 

 RD 30 Dec 2018
In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:

met some more climbers from Darlington today. 60+ routes.

drying out nicely in sun and breeze today. 

In reply to RD:

 

heard rumours from some guys in Stanhope that the quarry has just been sold due to some dangerous stuff in the water leaking into the surrounding area. 

Maybe something to watch out for over the next few months.

whats the deal with all the project lines? Are they open or closed? 

 

 mikekeswick 31 Dec 2018
In reply to jeffmearns:

I've just seen this thread. I would definitely be up for a look. Would you let me know when you are going up again? I live near Evenwood.

 Mike Conlon 03 Jan 2019
In reply to krikoman:

Not sure if you were serious but we went out to have a look at your suggested google maps location near Middleton in Teesdale. The "embankment" is shale/earth /stone waste. At least it gave us the opportunity to walk the dog and enjoy a very nice warm pork pie from the butcher in Middleton !

 RD 05 Jan 2019
In reply to sam.sam.sam.ferguson:

The projects are typically because of conditions such as wet when bolted or insufficient time to climb them. I would request they are left for the bolter to climb as there's a lot of time, effort and cost that goes into preparing them. 

Feel free to bolt any of the gaps and create your own project.

OP jeffmearns 05 Jan 2019
In reply to RD:

agreed, 4 have escaped so far... but hey, its all good j&c


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