Cloggy - Bloody Slab

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 ripper 16 Apr 2022

Cloggy - Bloody Slab E3 5b. A historic route, but no ascents logged ( on here) since 2015. Does nobody go up that section any more? I know last time I was at Cloggy the approach looked pretty horrible, is that why? 

 Dan Arkle 16 Apr 2022
In reply to ripper:

I had a look at this from the bottom. There's a loose start, lots of debris on the ledge and it didn't seem obvious where to go.

It put me off enough for a route of such a bold grade - although im sure it would still be possible for a bold climber who knows where they are going. 

 The Pylon King 17 Apr 2022
In reply to ripper:

E3 5b is such a modest but yet noble grade.

 edwardwoodward 17 Apr 2022
In reply to ripper:

Possibly a daft question, but...

Would it be possible to come down the terrace to get to the route?

OP ripper 17 Apr 2022
In reply to edwardwoodward:

I've wondered that too but not been brave enough to find out...

 kevin stephens 17 Apr 2022
In reply to ripper: I believe there was a major rockfall some years ago which took out the start of some of the routes.

 ianstevens 17 Apr 2022
In reply to ripper:

It’s E3 5b. I’d guess the route is pretty horrible too, unless you like to effectively solo 5b

8
 Rick Graham 17 Apr 2022
In reply to ianstevens:

Probably just grade creep and the fact it has not been tamed by modern gear development.

I have only done it once ( 1978) and it did not seem especially  hard, just middling extreme. But an historic on sight ascent  for the early 50's!

Reasonable pro from the standard mid to late 70's rack of a set of hexes, couple of moacs, a few wires and lots of slings.

Kevin did mention a rockfall which might change everything. 

Post edited at 13:13
2
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 17 Apr 2022
In reply to Rick Graham:

I remember it being very steady at the grade - just not much gear. Part of the corner to the right, Haemagoblin, (which was harder)  fell down and damaged the start of Bloody SLab, but that was donkey's years ago,

Chris

OP ripper 17 Apr 2022
In reply to ianstevens:

> It’s E3 5b. I’d guess the route is pretty horrible too, unless you like to effectively solo 5b

Sure that clearly means it's bold but hardly the only route like that in the world - or even on Cloggy! That alone would not seem reason for it to be avoided for the last seven years. Rockfall damage could be the answer, just thought maybe someone on here would know for sure. 

In reply to ripper:

Echo what the others have said above. The rockfall was in 1986. I did it after this and wrote 'loose' next to the start in my guidebook. Don't remember it being E3 5b in the same way that a route like Archangel (E3 5b) is E3 5b.

The route lengths seem a little generous as well since I apparently ran the first two pitches together which would have been on two 50m ropes in those days - CC give it 190ft (58m), GU give it 58m and we gave it 55m in Rockfax NWC. 

Alan

 dominic o 18 Apr 2022
In reply to ripper:

Climbed in the 90s - grade felt about right (runout but not very hard climbing) but the 3* and "tremendous route" in the (otherwise outstanding) Paul Williams guide seemed way over the top. I'm a huge Cloggy fan but this was one of the very few disappointments it has given me.

Cheers, Dom 

 jcw 18 Apr 2022
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Concur, same year as I led it (photo in my gallery). I did once attempt with Trevor Jones to approach it from the top to add a new pitch but got nowhere, 

Edit in fact 1984: sorry but still concur

Post edited at 22:56
 Andy Moles 22 Apr 2022
In reply to ripper:

I went up to the start of Slanting Slab a couple of years ago.

The approach is loose and unpleasant, but shouldn't be too much of an issue if you are capable of leading E3 5b in the mountains. You can always rope up if your partner is less confident.

In reply to ripper:

This is a good read, https://www.independent.co.uk/arts-entertainment/obituaries-john-streetly-1...

Might have called the route spear fishing with sharks if I were him.

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 23 Apr 2022
In reply to Andy Moles:

> The approach is loose and unpleasant, but shouldn't be too much of an issue if you are capable of leading E3 5b in the mountains. You can always rope up if your partner is less confident.

Not sure a second who needs belaying up to the start of Bloody Slab would be very happy on the route tbh,

Chris

 Andy Moles 23 Apr 2022
In reply to Chris Craggs:

In general probably not, but I know a few people who are very handy on a rope but really not happy doing sketchy scrambling (such as my partner on the day mentioned above).


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