In reply to Martino90:
I’ve had some coaching and came away a bit dissatisfied. But I think in hindsight I was really looking for a training plan that focussed on my weaknesses, and instead ended up gaining some quite specific movement tricks that are not widely applicable, and not much else. I did have more than 10 years experience at the time and I think had basic obvious movement stuff like accurate feet already reasonably well dialled, thought there was a lot I could have been taught (eg a detailed treatment of heelhooks and their uses). Another (group) session I did with a different coach ended up with a list of weekly training that amounted to 10+ sessions a week, that were roughly “everything you could train that might make you a better climber” … was totally unrealistic for a wage slave and failed to narrow it down to what I should focus on. Admittedly that was not 1 on 1 coaching.
Probably a lattice assessment and plan would have been perfect for what I wanted.
Just emphasises that you need to know if your goal is to improve headgame and tactics, technical movement, or physical limitations. Of course maybe you want to know which of those is the limiting factor, as I did. I now think a clear answer is hard to provide, even for an excellent coach, unless you’re clearly unbalanced across those areas. You can always improve each area, and perhaps need to improve all 3 to make big jumps in grade.
Good luck and let us know how you go!