Classic North Wales VS

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 GravitySucks 21 May 2019

Simple one really, oh great hive collective, hit me up with your favourites (multi-pitch prefereably but not exclusively).

ta!

 spartacus 21 May 2019
In reply to GravitySucks:

Soapgut on the Milestone....

2
 StockportAl 21 May 2019
1
 Hat Dude 21 May 2019
In reply to GravitySucks:

Doom in Cwm Cywarch gave me one of my best VS days out

Doom (VS 4c)

It needs a dry spell and could possibly benefit from a bit more traffic to clean it up a bit but I reckon it's a great VS adventure.

 jezb1 21 May 2019
In reply to GravitySucks:

A Dream of White Horses.

Yes this is tongue in cheek...!

1
 gali 21 May 2019
In reply to GravitySucks:

Oxine 

 nuts and bolts 21 May 2019
In reply to GravitySucks:

Another vote for Laverado. 

Grim Wall. 

Direct route on the Mot.

 Paul Sagar 21 May 2019
In reply to GravitySucks:

Weekend before last my girlfriend and I did all three of the classic VS routes at Dinas Cromlech in a day. Absolutely superb way to spend a day in the Pass, highly recommend.

Sabre Cut (VS 4c)

Noah's Warning (VS 5a)

Dives/Better Things (HS 4b)

Make sure you take big cams (and I mean BIG cams) on Sabre Cut though, as it's terrifying to lead the second pitch if you don't!

2
 Kirill 21 May 2019
In reply to GravitySucks:

Thin Wall Special at Craig y Clipiau

 spenser 21 May 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

There's a subsidiary crack inside the wide one on Sabre Cut which you can stuff full of wires (admittedly blindly but still very doable), no need for enormous gear on the route!

 Rog Wilko 21 May 2019
In reply to Hat Dude:

I set off on that a few years back but reversed off from halfway up first pitch having failed to find a single piece of gear. Keep feeling I should have toughed it out.

 james mann 21 May 2019
In reply to GravitySucks:

Cobweb crack - cromlech

phantom rib- grochan

Longlands

bow shaped slab

 curving crack

great slab-cloggy 

Lighthouse arete 

cordon bleau- Gogarth 

idwal link up tennis shoe, original route/ piton route, groove above, grey slab (not all vs but all good)

lots at tremadog 

james

 Blue Straggler 21 May 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

>

HS back in my day! Admittedly I only led the middle pitch which is a short walk across a flat grass terrace  

Post edited at 17:36
 Trangia 21 May 2019
In reply to GravitySucks:

Munich Climb VS

One of my first VS leads, some amazing situations, particularly the airy traverse on Pitch 3 after the bold step left from the belay stance at the start, followed by Teufel's Crack. 

 Paul Sagar 21 May 2019
In reply to spenser:

When I tried that my blind wires fell out! It was utterly terrifying. TAKE BIG CAMS!!!

1
 Tom Valentine 21 May 2019
In reply to GravitySucks:

Since it gets VS 4b on here I nominate Grey Slab.

Removed User 21 May 2019
In reply to Paul Sagar:

Ha Sabre Cut my 1st VS   50 + years back. Did it in big bendy boots that kept getting jammed in the corner.     No runners and thought I was going to die.

Last time I did it i asked my 2nd to count the runners.  14 and no big cams as im still to tight to buy them

 Chris_Mellor 21 May 2019
In reply to GravitySucks:

Llanberis Pass: Phantom Rib, Brant, Slape, on the Grochan, Shadow Wall on the Wastad. 

 alan moore 21 May 2019
In reply to GravitySucks:

Obsession on Cyfrwy is really good.

Hawks Nest Arete is really very good.

Milestone Direct is a personal favourite; is that HVS now?

 Pay Attention 21 May 2019
In reply to GravitySucks:

FANTAN B (HVS 5a) ticks several boxes. It's graded HVS but has been described as VS climbing in an E1 situation.  The 5a bit is well protected.  The range of grades on the UKC voting gives an idea of its character.

I've no idea what the rating of DNF means on a multi pitch route of six pitches (!).  Did the leader abandon the second on the first pitch?

1

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