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There was a fantastic thread a few weeks ago discussing guidebooks that you'd like to see produced, in which someone suggested a guide to Classic Benightments of the UK. So inspired was I by this suggestion that I've decided to do the next best thing and create a UKC ticklist. Given that benightment season is now well and truly under way I thought this might be timely to give people some routes to aspire to be benighted on. So I'm looking for suggestions.
Ones I've thought of from personal experience / folk I know / UKC folklore:
Anything on the East face of Tryfan
Avalanche/Red Wall/Longlands (S 4b)
Tower Ridge (IV 3)
Aonach Eagach Ridge (Winter) (II)
Valkyrie (VS 4c) (consult Buxton MC if you're curious / missed that thread)
When this thread concludes I'll put the list together and my challenge will be: who can complete the list in ethically pure style? By ethically pure I mean: the benightment must be unintentional, headtorches must have at most 25% battery remaining at the start of the ascent, and at least 40% of climbing time must be committed to rope faff, routefinding nightmares and generally turning those brandspanking new Montane Terras a suspicious shade of brown...
So, any suggestions?
Post edited at 21:46
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In reply to fuzzysheep01:
A few I know about (second-hand I hasten to add!):
Eagle Ridge (Summer) (S)
Observatory Ridge (V 4)
Western Rib (III)
A few I know about (second-hand I hasten to add!):
Eagle Ridge (Summer) (S)
Observatory Ridge (V 4)
Western Rib (III)
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In reply to fuzzysheep01:
Who threw this one a peanut?!
No, srsly bro, great thread...
Gashed Crag, just for you!
Who threw this one a peanut?!
No, srsly bro, great thread...
Gashed Crag, just for you!
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In reply to fuzzysheep01:
Hope (VD) Hope (VD)
To be listed twice in honour of that pair that who got benighted not once but twice on one ascent.
"To be benighted once may be regarded as misfortune, to be benighted twice is basically a long weekend." to paraphrase Oscar Wilde.
Hope (VD) Hope (VD)
To be listed twice in honour of that pair that who got benighted not once but twice on one ascent.
"To be benighted once may be regarded as misfortune, to be benighted twice is basically a long weekend." to paraphrase Oscar Wilde.
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In reply to Ronbo:
Wasn't sure if that counted if they didn't stop to bed in? An impressive effort nonetheless
Wasn't sure if that counted if they didn't stop to bed in? An impressive effort nonetheless
In reply to mike barnard:
Diamond Fire on Beinn Alligan was 22 hours as well but no bivvi so does not count - again not me!
Diamond Fire on Beinn Alligan was 22 hours as well but no bivvi so does not count - again not me!
Post edited at 22:14
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In reply to fuzzysheep01:
Central Buttress on Scafell would be good, lots of flat bivi ledges!
Central Buttress on Scafell would be good, lots of flat bivi ledges!
Post edited at 22:41
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In reply to fuzzysheep01:
But for an intervention that was paranormal in its weirdness, I'd have been benighted on Dream of White Horses...
But for an intervention that was paranormal in its weirdness, I'd have been benighted on Dream of White Horses...
In reply to fuzzysheep01:
Nice thread! Please flesh out the stories! I remember that Gwen Moffat was benighted on Aonach Eagach Ridge in winter. What about the others?
I'd not heard about the Valkyrie rescue - I feel bad for the person involved, but couldn't avoid laughing. This means Rockfax will have to edit its Hen Cloudentry: "The tallest part of the cliff, home to some great multi-pitch routes and the site of the only benightment on grit, on Central Climb (VS 4c), where John Laycock was rescued from above by his climbing partner and their chauffeur."
I seem to recall that Al Alvarez begins his 'Feeding the Rat' with a great account of being benighted on Muro Giallo/Gelbe Mauer (Yellow Wall) (7a+) with Mo Anthoine.
So that's two more for your list!
p.s. I've ended up in the dark at the top of two routes: Central Chimney on Great End, and, embarrassingly, Sad Gill Wall, Buckbarrow. However, I don't count it as 'benightment' unless you actually have to spend the night. I've seen others using 'benightment' to mean 'getting caught in the dark', though - so, how do you define it?
Nice thread! Please flesh out the stories! I remember that Gwen Moffat was benighted on Aonach Eagach Ridge in winter. What about the others?
I'd not heard about the Valkyrie rescue - I feel bad for the person involved, but couldn't avoid laughing. This means Rockfax will have to edit its Hen Cloudentry: "The tallest part of the cliff, home to some great multi-pitch routes and the site of the only benightment on grit, on Central Climb (VS 4c), where John Laycock was rescued from above by his climbing partner and their chauffeur."
I seem to recall that Al Alvarez begins his 'Feeding the Rat' with a great account of being benighted on Muro Giallo/Gelbe Mauer (Yellow Wall) (7a+) with Mo Anthoine.
So that's two more for your list!
p.s. I've ended up in the dark at the top of two routes: Central Chimney on Great End, and, embarrassingly, Sad Gill Wall, Buckbarrow. However, I don't count it as 'benightment' unless you actually have to spend the night. I've seen others using 'benightment' to mean 'getting caught in the dark', though - so, how do you define it?
Post edited at 12:31
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In reply to C Witter:
>> I've seen others using 'benightment' to mean 'getting caught in the dark', though - so, how do you define it?
Benightment, to me, means having to spend the night out there. Finishing in the dark just means you made good use of all available daylight. :
>> I've seen others using 'benightment' to mean 'getting caught in the dark', though - so, how do you define it?
Benightment, to me, means having to spend the night out there. Finishing in the dark just means you made good use of all available daylight. :
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In reply to fuzzysheep01:
Thread discussing the Valkyrie benightment is here: https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/t.php?t=572615
Good discussion of other grit benightments further down the thread.
Thread discussing the Valkyrie benightment is here: https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/t.php?t=572615
Good discussion of other grit benightments further down the thread.
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In reply to C Witter:
Good suggestions! That's interesting - to me, benightment means ending up on a route in the dark unintentionally, though it seems quite a few consider it to mean spending the night on the route. I'm happy to accept your definition - that means I can claim to have never been benighted on a route...!
Good suggestions! That's interesting - to me, benightment means ending up on a route in the dark unintentionally, though it seems quite a few consider it to mean spending the night on the route. I'm happy to accept your definition - that means I can claim to have never been benighted on a route...!
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In reply to C Witter:
Some further discussion of benightment definitions here: https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/t.php?t=395417
Some further discussion of benightment definitions here: https://www.ukhillwalking.com/forums/t.php?t=395417
In reply to fuzzysheep01:
I met a pair walking out from savage slit, I think, one morning. They'd topped out instead of abseiling, had head torches, but missed the descent back to their bags and ended up in loch A'an basin and dug a snow hole for the night. And impressively didn't seem much the worse for it.
I met a pair walking out from savage slit, I think, one morning. They'd topped out instead of abseiling, had head torches, but missed the descent back to their bags and ended up in loch A'an basin and dug a snow hole for the night. And impressively didn't seem much the worse for it.
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In reply to fuzzysheep01:
I know someone who managed to get benighted on Trafalgar Wall at Birchen Edge, sort of.
It required a special talent.
I know someone who managed to get benighted on Trafalgar Wall at Birchen Edge, sort of.
It required a special talent.
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In reply to fuzzysheep01:
I've spent a night in the woods this year, but in Norway, coming down from a route. We were only a couple of hundred metres from the road but we got trapped by a river we couldn't cross in the dark. Not too rough
I've spent a night in the woods this year, but in Norway, coming down from a route. We were only a couple of hundred metres from the road but we got trapped by a river we couldn't cross in the dark. Not too rough
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In reply to fuzzysheep01:
That's about 4pm at the start of winter, which is hardly benightment. Not even dinner time.
> Good suggestions! That's interesting - to me, benightment means ending up on a route in the dark unintentionally...
That's about 4pm at the start of winter, which is hardly benightment. Not even dinner time.
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In reply to fuzzysheep01:
Sron na Lairig (Winter) (II) We did it in poor snow conditions and it a 4 hour climb took 14 hours EPIC. Snow was sugar.
Sron na Lairig (Winter) (II) We did it in poor snow conditions and it a 4 hour climb took 14 hours EPIC. Snow was sugar.
In reply to fuzzysheep01:
To me, that sounds like finishing a route in the dark. Surely benighted means forced to spend the night out unintentionally, otherwise pretty much 50% of routes in winter end up in someone getting benighted.
> That's interesting - to me, benightment means ending up on a route in the dark unintentionally
To me, that sounds like finishing a route in the dark. Surely benighted means forced to spend the night out unintentionally, otherwise pretty much 50% of routes in winter end up in someone getting benighted.
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In reply to C Witter:
Surely benightment is when you have an unplanned bivvy or at least climbing : descending in the dark without a head torch. Finishing the route by head torch is fair game for long (and some times not so long) winter routes.
Surely benightment is when you have an unplanned bivvy or at least climbing : descending in the dark without a head torch. Finishing the route by head torch is fair game for long (and some times not so long) winter routes.
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In reply to fuzzysheep01:
Interesting, you say unintentionally - so if you know you’ll be finishing in the dark it definitely doesn’t count
Interesting, you say unintentionally - so if you know you’ll be finishing in the dark it definitely doesn’t count
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In reply to davidbeynon:
Just a thought, has anyone ever been benighted on Nelson's Column?
> I know someone who managed to get benighted on Trafalgar Wall at Birchen Edge, sort of.
Just a thought, has anyone ever been benighted on Nelson's Column?
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In reply to galpinos:
Two friends of mine on the 600'+ Detritus aid route on the Little Orme years ago. The leader stranded way up pitch two, the second still in his harness on the hanging belay below. All night was bad enough but he dropped his smokes ....
Not quite Toni Kurtz but,,,,
Two friends of mine on the 600'+ Detritus aid route on the Little Orme years ago. The leader stranded way up pitch two, the second still in his harness on the hanging belay below. All night was bad enough but he dropped his smokes ....
Not quite Toni Kurtz but,,,,
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In reply to fuzzysheep01:
Two friends of mine, N and C, a summer's day about 40 years ago, made a very late start from Wasdale campsite for a route on Scafell. Finishing in fading light, they struggled to find the descent path. Eventually they decided it was unsafe to continue and sat on their ledge to await dawn. At first light, they found they were only about 10' from their sacks and the path.
Two friends of mine, N and C, a summer's day about 40 years ago, made a very late start from Wasdale campsite for a route on Scafell. Finishing in fading light, they struggled to find the descent path. Eventually they decided it was unsafe to continue and sat on their ledge to await dawn. At first light, they found they were only about 10' from their sacks and the path.
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In reply to Mark Kemball:
Apparently something like this happened to someone I know at the top of Fantan B on the Lleyn.
Apparently something like this happened to someone I know at the top of Fantan B on the Lleyn.
In reply to fuzzysheep01:
Mark Kemball's post properly describes benightment - you have to stop climbing/descending because you can't see to do so safely. Anything less is just finishing late.
Mark Kemball's post properly describes benightment - you have to stop climbing/descending because you can't see to do so safely. Anything less is just finishing late.
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In reply to Mark Kemball:
Ha! But still the right decision although I bet they weren’t impressed with it
Ha! But still the right decision although I bet they weren’t impressed with it
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In reply to fuzzysheep01:
A stupidly late start for La Demande at Verdon after a too much booze the night before in La Palud, saw us still 3 pitches from the top as darkness began to fall.
We had no headtorches, and were wearing just vests and shorts, with 1 Sig bottle of water between us.
Managed to grope our way to the belay below the penultimate pitch in virtual darkness, when it started raining. This turned quickly into a torrential downpour, and the route turned into a waterfall.
We spent a very long, very cold night, soaked to the skin, until at first light, we managed to frig our way shivering and shaking up the last two pitches.
The worst part of it all, wasn't actually the cold and lack of food, but that our ciggies got ruined.
Only smokers will understand just how horrific that is
A stupidly late start for La Demande at Verdon after a too much booze the night before in La Palud, saw us still 3 pitches from the top as darkness began to fall.
We had no headtorches, and were wearing just vests and shorts, with 1 Sig bottle of water between us.
Managed to grope our way to the belay below the penultimate pitch in virtual darkness, when it started raining. This turned quickly into a torrential downpour, and the route turned into a waterfall.
We spent a very long, very cold night, soaked to the skin, until at first light, we managed to frig our way shivering and shaking up the last two pitches.
The worst part of it all, wasn't actually the cold and lack of food, but that our ciggies got ruined.
Only smokers will understand just how horrific that is
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In reply to fuzzysheep01:
Benightments require one, some or all of the following:
Immaturity of youth (or old age...)
False expectations
Overestimation of capability
Team rivalry/disagreement/fight
Ignorance of weather patterns
Wilfully ignoring advice
Narcolepsy
Unexpected encounters with difficulty, dead sheep, hemorrhoids...
Illiteracy, dyspraxia or ODD
Absence of essential kit/failure to pack said kit
Interest in comedic effect
Trouble at home
I can tick two of these (at least) - Hutaple Crag (Curving Gully) - the route wasn't bad actually, not so the row when I got back home; and Gimmer Crack - excellent time (Summer, good company, missed work the next day...
Benightments require one, some or all of the following:
Immaturity of youth (or old age...)
False expectations
Overestimation of capability
Team rivalry/disagreement/fight
Ignorance of weather patterns
Wilfully ignoring advice
Narcolepsy
Unexpected encounters with difficulty, dead sheep, hemorrhoids...
Illiteracy, dyspraxia or ODD
Absence of essential kit/failure to pack said kit
Interest in comedic effect
Trouble at home
I can tick two of these (at least) - Hutaple Crag (Curving Gully) - the route wasn't bad actually, not so the row when I got back home; and Gimmer Crack - excellent time (Summer, good company, missed work the next day...
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In reply to fuzzysheep01:
The finest benightment I know of was recorded in an old Steall Hut book, which had several entries claiming the fastest 'over and back' crossing of the famous bridge. One entry, written in the full after-dinner speaker manner, claimed a new 'record' for the crossing under the influence of alcohol, clipped to a harness and carrying a rucksack full of coal: one and a half hours. No names, but I know who it was, and it's true.
The finest benightment I know of was recorded in an old Steall Hut book, which had several entries claiming the fastest 'over and back' crossing of the famous bridge. One entry, written in the full after-dinner speaker manner, claimed a new 'record' for the crossing under the influence of alcohol, clipped to a harness and carrying a rucksack full of coal: one and a half hours. No names, but I know who it was, and it's true.
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In reply to fuzzysheep01:
On the basis that it is “classic” Original Route on Raven Crag, started at 9pm in the summer thinking that it would be a couple of pitches to the top....
On the basis that it is “classic” Original Route on Raven Crag, started at 9pm in the summer thinking that it would be a couple of pitches to the top....
In reply to fuzzysheep01:
I learnt to climb through the time honored fashion of joining a Uni Climbing Club and being fortunate enough to survive the experience. My first time climbing a multi-pitch route ended up with benightment on the Cromlech, mainly due to the rest of the club leaving the two least experienced people to team up so as not to hold back their own ambitions for the day. An escape was made by an abseil off a small bush into the darkness below, only the second time I'd abseiled and the first without a safety rope. We just made last orders, where I thought to myself "wow, this climbing lark is really exciting!"
Not long afterwards, I made my first ever visit to the Staffordshire Gritstone. My partner, who fancied himself as an alpinist (he went on to make many first ascents and first British ascents in mountain ranges across the globe) decided that despite the deep snow and verglassed rock, an ascent of one of the multi-pitch routes on Hen Cloud was in order. Inevitably, his ascent ground to a halt not far from the ground and he lowered off a runner.
As darkness approached, he set up an abseil to retrieve his gear, but managed to abseil into a gully and get his ropes snagged behind and above him, leaving him unable to descend further. Eager to learn from a master, by now I was peering over the edge as he declared that he would simply prusik up the ropes and sort out the tangle. Unfortunately, having abseiled from a large boulder, his ropes were too wide apart for him to prusik up to safe ground and he was left dangling and stuck. By now, it was fully dark and also snowing again quite heavily.
I'd learnt my lesson from earlier, and went everywhere with my trusty Petzl Zoom headtorch. Using this to look at a map I saw that there was a Mountain Rescue Post at a farm nearby. The Post itself was simply a wooden box containing some mouldy blankets, but the farmer lent us an old thick hawser laid rope which we dropped down so our alpinist could batman back up to safety.
So, I'd like to nominate Spiral Stairs on the Cromlech and Central Climb at Hen Cloud for the list.
I learnt to climb through the time honored fashion of joining a Uni Climbing Club and being fortunate enough to survive the experience. My first time climbing a multi-pitch route ended up with benightment on the Cromlech, mainly due to the rest of the club leaving the two least experienced people to team up so as not to hold back their own ambitions for the day. An escape was made by an abseil off a small bush into the darkness below, only the second time I'd abseiled and the first without a safety rope. We just made last orders, where I thought to myself "wow, this climbing lark is really exciting!"
Not long afterwards, I made my first ever visit to the Staffordshire Gritstone. My partner, who fancied himself as an alpinist (he went on to make many first ascents and first British ascents in mountain ranges across the globe) decided that despite the deep snow and verglassed rock, an ascent of one of the multi-pitch routes on Hen Cloud was in order. Inevitably, his ascent ground to a halt not far from the ground and he lowered off a runner.
As darkness approached, he set up an abseil to retrieve his gear, but managed to abseil into a gully and get his ropes snagged behind and above him, leaving him unable to descend further. Eager to learn from a master, by now I was peering over the edge as he declared that he would simply prusik up the ropes and sort out the tangle. Unfortunately, having abseiled from a large boulder, his ropes were too wide apart for him to prusik up to safe ground and he was left dangling and stuck. By now, it was fully dark and also snowing again quite heavily.
I'd learnt my lesson from earlier, and went everywhere with my trusty Petzl Zoom headtorch. Using this to look at a map I saw that there was a Mountain Rescue Post at a farm nearby. The Post itself was simply a wooden box containing some mouldy blankets, but the farmer lent us an old thick hawser laid rope which we dropped down so our alpinist could batman back up to safety.
So, I'd like to nominate Spiral Stairs on the Cromlech and Central Climb at Hen Cloud for the list.
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In reply to fuzzysheep01:
Hang on! Can I just clarify, that had nothing to do with us.... I presume you mean Buxton MRT
> Valkyrie (VS 4c) (consult Buxton MC if you're curious / missed that thread)
Hang on! Can I just clarify, that had nothing to do with us.... I presume you mean Buxton MRT
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In reply to danm:
I've never seen 'batman' used as a verb before, but it's brilliantly descriptive.
> but the farmer lent us an old thick hawser laid rope which we dropped down so our alpinist could batman back up to safety.
I've never seen 'batman' used as a verb before, but it's brilliantly descriptive.
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In reply to fuzzysheep01:
Clach Glas Traverse (M) in winter, sensibly decided to turn back. Insensibly, decided to shortcut down the East face. Quite tricky as my bag with the rope/map/car keys etc in it had earlier been thrown off the West face.
Nadelhorn summit (summit) 22hrs of very slow climbing ended at 2am when one of the party broke an ankle. Heli rescue came about 7am.
Lockwood's Chimney (VD)
Christmas Curry (S 4a)
Shadrach (VS 4c)
North Gully (III) Lurchers
Mount Edith Cavell summit (summit) East Ridge
Some of these don't count as they were just very late night finishes, but with modern headtoches it's difficult to have proper benightments.
Clach Glas Traverse (M) in winter, sensibly decided to turn back. Insensibly, decided to shortcut down the East face. Quite tricky as my bag with the rope/map/car keys etc in it had earlier been thrown off the West face.
Nadelhorn summit (summit) 22hrs of very slow climbing ended at 2am when one of the party broke an ankle. Heli rescue came about 7am.
Lockwood's Chimney (VD)
Christmas Curry (S 4a)
Shadrach (VS 4c)
North Gully (III) Lurchers
Mount Edith Cavell summit (summit) East Ridge
Some of these don't count as they were just very late night finishes, but with modern headtoches it's difficult to have proper benightments.
Post edited at 07:22
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In reply to smithg:
I thought that any unusual ascents of Lockwood's Chimney were accomplished during the day
I thought that any unusual ascents of Lockwood's Chimney were accomplished during the day
In reply to smithg:
It's far to easy to forget the headtorch!
> Some of these don't count as they were just very late night finishes, but with modern headtorches it's difficult to have proper benightments.
It's far to easy to forget the headtorch!
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In reply to Mark Kemball:
Or have one which fails. I did a deliberate night walk in the mountains alone at dusk for fun, carried one torch. I sat on top till the very last shred of light vanished then thought time to go down and switched on the torch. The bulb immediately failed uh-oh. There was no moon but I made it down in about 2 hours by starlight which was JUST sufficient once my eyes adjusted, great experience. My conclusion carry a spare light at night if alone
> It's far to easy to forget the headtorch!
Or have one which fails. I did a deliberate night walk in the mountains alone at dusk for fun, carried one torch. I sat on top till the very last shred of light vanished then thought time to go down and switched on the torch. The bulb immediately failed uh-oh. There was no moon but I made it down in about 2 hours by starlight which was JUST sufficient once my eyes adjusted, great experience. My conclusion carry a spare light at night if alone
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In reply to fuzzysheep01:
Once had a friend who couldn't get over tower gap in the darkness. They abbed down the east side and dug a hole in the snow slope. Froze through the night trying not to sleep. Once day light they discovered they could easily traversed into tower gully and out.
Once had a friend who couldn't get over tower gap in the darkness. They abbed down the east side and dug a hole in the snow slope. Froze through the night trying not to sleep. Once day light they discovered they could easily traversed into tower gully and out.
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In reply to fuzzysheep01:
I understand that the Ordinary Route on Puig Campana is notorious for benightments. We came close to it and even with head torches it was a near epic capped by arriving back at the hire car to find it had been broken into
Climbing as a rope of 3 when everyone wants a turn at leading doesn't make for fast progress.
Edit
Sorry just realised that the title specifies "UK", but I'll let it stand now.
I understand that the Ordinary Route on Puig Campana is notorious for benightments. We came close to it and even with head torches it was a near epic capped by arriving back at the hire car to find it had been broken into
Climbing as a rope of 3 when everyone wants a turn at leading doesn't make for fast progress.
Edit
Sorry just realised that the title specifies "UK", but I'll let it stand now.
Post edited at 13:27
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In reply to fuzzysheep01:
Amazingly, I was never benighted in UK, but came close to it. Closest was probably Pillar Rock with my brother (North-West Climb). Managed to get down the descent route in v poor, fading light, then all the way back to Wasdale in pitch darkness – I think with either no torch or a torch that failed quite early on.
Amazingly, I was never benighted in UK, but came close to it. Closest was probably Pillar Rock with my brother (North-West Climb). Managed to get down the descent route in v poor, fading light, then all the way back to Wasdale in pitch darkness – I think with either no torch or a torch that failed quite early on.
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In reply to fuzzysheep01: definition question - if you've been actively descending all night does that count , or do you consciously have to decide to have a sit down?
Obviously finishing in the dark is just a full day out
Obviously finishing in the dark is just a full day out
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In reply to wbo:
I think you have to be unintentionally cragbound by the onset of darkness for it to count.
I think you have to be unintentionally cragbound by the onset of darkness for it to count.
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In reply to fuzzysheep01:
I should imagine that Crypt Route (VD) has seen a few, summer and winter. I suspect that given the late start when we went up to do it one day in May some years back that we might have been one such. As it was, plans had to be changed as the route was still very much in winter condition and we just had rock gear.
T.
I should imagine that Crypt Route (VD) has seen a few, summer and winter. I suspect that given the late start when we went up to do it one day in May some years back that we might have been one such. As it was, plans had to be changed as the route was still very much in winter condition and we just had rock gear.
T.
In reply to fuzzysheep01:
Happily I've avoided this over the years but came close on the Tough-Brown on Lochnagar stuck behind a very slow party ie. over 6 hours to get up one pitch and we couldn't bypass them. Observatory Ridge on the Ben is a classic as is Tower Ridge. closest I ever came was perhaps once descending Five Fingers Gully in full conditions and only one feeble torch between us. We debated the issue of a bivvy for all of ten seconds and then carried on down getting off at midnight. Again the late finish in the dark was being held up by another very slow party. i mean who in their right mind takes a beginner up Tower Ridge in bad conditions?
Great thread!
Happily I've avoided this over the years but came close on the Tough-Brown on Lochnagar stuck behind a very slow party ie. over 6 hours to get up one pitch and we couldn't bypass them. Observatory Ridge on the Ben is a classic as is Tower Ridge. closest I ever came was perhaps once descending Five Fingers Gully in full conditions and only one feeble torch between us. We debated the issue of a bivvy for all of ten seconds and then carried on down getting off at midnight. Again the late finish in the dark was being held up by another very slow party. i mean who in their right mind takes a beginner up Tower Ridge in bad conditions?
Great thread!
Post edited at 16:53
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I like the Avalanche / Red Wall / Longlands suggestion.
That's where I've come closest to being benighted. On a university trip in late Nov sometime in the mid 1970s, not only was there (miraculously) enough power in our 'Pile Wonder' headtorches to get us off LLiwedd, but also to continue as planned around the Horseshoe and back to the campsite opposite the Vaynol, although sadly not before closing time. I think what constituted an 'acceptable light output' was far less back then.
But my suggestion for the list would be any climb attempted 'after work' during a period of warm weather in September. You know, - the days that are heralded as a 'return to summer'. Well, the warmth might have returned, the enthusiasm may never have waned, but the days have already become much, much shorter than in summer proper. I remember a glorious, relaxed ascent of Bilberry Buttress suddenly taking on a manic sense of urgency after realising that the spectacular sunset behind the Cringles ridge, meant it would very soon be dark. The thought of an enforced bivi within sight and sounds of a pub was too horrific to even contemplate.
That's where I've come closest to being benighted. On a university trip in late Nov sometime in the mid 1970s, not only was there (miraculously) enough power in our 'Pile Wonder' headtorches to get us off LLiwedd, but also to continue as planned around the Horseshoe and back to the campsite opposite the Vaynol, although sadly not before closing time. I think what constituted an 'acceptable light output' was far less back then.
But my suggestion for the list would be any climb attempted 'after work' during a period of warm weather in September. You know, - the days that are heralded as a 'return to summer'. Well, the warmth might have returned, the enthusiasm may never have waned, but the days have already become much, much shorter than in summer proper. I remember a glorious, relaxed ascent of Bilberry Buttress suddenly taking on a manic sense of urgency after realising that the spectacular sunset behind the Cringles ridge, meant it would very soon be dark. The thought of an enforced bivi within sight and sounds of a pub was too horrific to even contemplate.
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In reply to fuzzysheep01: Not a benightment but close: The flight to Amman and subsequent long taxi ride across Jordan deposited us in Wadi Rum in the small hours. We emerged from our tents late, spent some time buying supplies and then at 11 am Martin suggested Lionheart. Guidebook time for its 8 pitches was 5 hours, and 4 pm didn't seem too late to finish. But we'd forgotten to include the walk to the crag, so as Martin tackled the final pitch, the shadows were, this being close to the equator, racing across the desert plain beneath, and so I decided not to follow that pitch. As it was, we did the final 3 abs in the dark, the dry atmosphere and the static on the belay plates lighting up wonderfully. We took a headtorch on subsequent routes. Lionheart (ED1)
In reply to Nigel Coe:
Wow what a great day you do not forget that kind of day
> as Martin tackled the final pitch, the shadows were, this being close to the equator, racing across the desert plain beneath, and so I decided not to follow that pitch. As it was, we did the final 3 abs in the dark, the dry atmosphere and the static on the belay plates lighting up wonderfully
Wow what a great day you do not forget that kind of day
In reply to Misha:
I can understand this as in the 70's we just missed having to sleep out on this route by finishing in the dark and rain after a rather late start.
I can understand this as in the 70's we just missed having to sleep out on this route by finishing in the dark and rain after a rather late start.
In reply to fuzzysheep01:
Two brothers of my acquaintance summitted out on Craig Castell in the dusk, didn't know the way off.
Brother 1 refused to allow abseiling on his new rope so they sat it out all night, and to rub in some salt they could even see people going into the pub in the village.
Two brothers of my acquaintance summitted out on Craig Castell in the dusk, didn't know the way off.
Brother 1 refused to allow abseiling on his new rope so they sat it out all night, and to rub in some salt they could even see people going into the pub in the village.
4
In reply to fuzzysheep01:
To be completely ethically pure you should also set off at midday and not take waterproof jackets or extra layers because it's just a Diff and the rains not due until 5pm...
To be completely ethically pure you should also set off at midday and not take waterproof jackets or extra layers because it's just a Diff and the rains not due until 5pm...
4
In reply to Removed Userena sharples:
OK ena, I'll pay out and apologise for that one fair enough. I hope you [and others accept].
The Toni Kurtz story is one of - if not *the* most harrowing of all sorry tales and reviewing what I wrote last night, you, sir or madam, are bang *on*.
Sorry all.
Back to stand in the bl**dy corner.
AGAIN!!!!!!
> bang out of order trying to find humour in the death of Toni Kurtz.
OK ena, I'll pay out and apologise for that one fair enough. I hope you [and others accept].
The Toni Kurtz story is one of - if not *the* most harrowing of all sorry tales and reviewing what I wrote last night, you, sir or madam, are bang *on*.
Sorry all.
Back to stand in the bl**dy corner.
AGAIN!!!!!!
6
In reply to bouldery bits:
No, it only produced the first ever grimping competition World Champion bb.
> Buxton? Nothing happens there..
No, it only produced the first ever grimping competition World Champion bb.
In reply to AP Melbourne:
Dear AP, many thanks for those words and sentiment-. I get that time mellows the edge off most things, but as you say, Toni Kurtz is the one mountaineering death above pretty well all others that has always haunted me as a genuine tragedy. best wishes, Marcus
Dear AP, many thanks for those words and sentiment-. I get that time mellows the edge off most things, but as you say, Toni Kurtz is the one mountaineering death above pretty well all others that has always haunted me as a genuine tragedy. best wishes, Marcus
Post edited at 01:17
1
In reply to fuzzysheep01:
Achir ridge traverse, Isle of Arran. A winter traverse is very time consuming. I would say a traverse from South to north would make things a bit easier rather than the opposite as we did in winter 1983. Spent far too much time in the gap and reached the summit just before dark.Thinking there would be little difficulties after this section was our main mistake. We only had one torch, lost an Ice axe and got jammed abb ropes at one point that we had to climb to retrieve. It's weird but I remember feeling an impending doom as it got dark but I reckon it was just inexperience.
Achir ridge traverse, Isle of Arran. A winter traverse is very time consuming. I would say a traverse from South to north would make things a bit easier rather than the opposite as we did in winter 1983. Spent far too much time in the gap and reached the summit just before dark.Thinking there would be little difficulties after this section was our main mistake. We only had one torch, lost an Ice axe and got jammed abb ropes at one point that we had to climb to retrieve. It's weird but I remember feeling an impending doom as it got dark but I reckon it was just inexperience.
1
2
In reply to Misha:
To my mind benightment requires an unplanned bivvy - otherwise stories of benightment would be really dull.
"Oh yes, I remember when we were benighted on suchandsuch..."
"Really?!"
"Yes, but it was ok - we had a torch."
"..."
However, looking at the OED, it's taking the other side: to be 'benighted' merely means being 'overtaken by night', and there's plenty of precedent for the idea of being benighted as merely when it goes dark before your journey is over.
Notice, however, that it only has the adjective form and not the noun form - so there may be some latitude for a different definition. Also, that the primary meaning is: "In a state of pitiful or contemptible intellectual or moral ignorance" or 'unenlightened' - which may also be fitting in some cases...
To my mind benightment requires an unplanned bivvy - otherwise stories of benightment would be really dull.
"Oh yes, I remember when we were benighted on suchandsuch..."
"Really?!"
"Yes, but it was ok - we had a torch."
"..."
However, looking at the OED, it's taking the other side: to be 'benighted' merely means being 'overtaken by night', and there's plenty of precedent for the idea of being benighted as merely when it goes dark before your journey is over.
Notice, however, that it only has the adjective form and not the noun form - so there may be some latitude for a different definition. Also, that the primary meaning is: "In a state of pitiful or contemptible intellectual or moral ignorance" or 'unenlightened' - which may also be fitting in some cases...
Post edited at 08:08
3
In reply to C Witter:
When I lived in Bristol we used to have midweek evening caving trips. It wasn't unknown to find that by the the time we emerged we'd been 'overtaken by daylight'.
> However, looking at the OED, it's taking the other side: to be 'benighted' merely means being 'overtaken by night',
When I lived in Bristol we used to have midweek evening caving trips. It wasn't unknown to find that by the the time we emerged we'd been 'overtaken by daylight'.
6
In reply to Dave Garnett:
At night the sun goes underground and the caves are well lit, so obviously evening is the time to start a caving trip.
At night the sun goes underground and the caves are well lit, so obviously evening is the time to start a caving trip.
2
In reply to fuzzysheep01:
Striptease at Tremadog. It was a fiasco in which little climbing was done and involved a sharp exchange incorporating the words "You've ********* done what!" It culminated in me, at the top of the crag, watching Eric turn the lights out in the cafe, lock the door and walk across the road to his house while I settled down to shiver for a while longer before I could pull the ropes up (don't ask) and slurp and slither down the path through the woods. For the avoidance of doubt, I have never set foot on Striptease, but I have belayed at the bottom and waited at the top. I have also prusiked up, and abseiled down, the first pitch.
Striptease at Tremadog. It was a fiasco in which little climbing was done and involved a sharp exchange incorporating the words "You've ********* done what!" It culminated in me, at the top of the crag, watching Eric turn the lights out in the cafe, lock the door and walk across the road to his house while I settled down to shiver for a while longer before I could pull the ropes up (don't ask) and slurp and slither down the path through the woods. For the avoidance of doubt, I have never set foot on Striptease, but I have belayed at the bottom and waited at the top. I have also prusiked up, and abseiled down, the first pitch.
4
In reply to fuzzysheep01:
And then of course there are routes that have never been done without benightment.
Wonderland (E1 5c)
And then of course there are routes that have never been done without benightment.
Wonderland (E1 5c)
3
In reply to fuzzysheep01:
I got benighted on malory's slab/great chimney a few years back. Combination of moving slower than we expected due to having forgot to take a petrol strimmer , taking too many and too long jet boil breaks looking at the amazing views then taking a wrong turn in the last dash up in the dark and finding a blank vertical wall about 100ft from the top just as the heavens opened and stayed open all night. Glad to have a bothy bag and some Bombay mix.
I got benighted on malory's slab/great chimney a few years back. Combination of moving slower than we expected due to having forgot to take a petrol strimmer , taking too many and too long jet boil breaks looking at the amazing views then taking a wrong turn in the last dash up in the dark and finding a blank vertical wall about 100ft from the top just as the heavens opened and stayed open all night. Glad to have a bothy bag and some Bombay mix.
Post edited at 22:48
3
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