Chalking up shoes!?

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 tehmarks 10 Jul 2020

No, I'm not going mental, stick with me (pun fully intended). Shamelessly searching for as much beta as I can find for a certain Roaches dyno classic, and I came across...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=leHVNb6rKr8#t=3m48s (plays from the relevant bit)

...why on Earth would anyone chalk up their shoes? Am I missing a trick? Some valuable technique to push one's grade beyond the moderate? Is this why I'm so shit on grit slabs?

Seriously though, does anyone have any idea what's going on? I always figured the less between the rubber and the rock (whether it be sand, dirt, mud, sheep crap, chalk...whatever) the better - for rock and for ego.

Post edited at 00:59
 ipfreely 10 Jul 2020
In reply to tehmarks I've put a little chalk on my shoes just to absorbe the dampness when it's been soggy out, then cleaned them off & dry again.

those shoes have seen better days.

Watching the part of the clip you shared, i don't know why he cleans & chalks his shoes, then steps on to the grass, probably getting them dirty again, putting the pad closer to the crag then getting his mate to move it back again would make more sense.

1
 deacondeacon 10 Jul 2020
In reply to tehmarks:

Just get on it. It's pretty much the least beta intensive, basic route in the Peak!          Do a rock over, stand up, then jump. 

OP tehmarks 10 Jul 2020
In reply to deacondeacon:

It started with looking for gear beta (because I have delusions of going for the flash and wanted to know what the lower bit of gear was like and what I needed for it), but then I realised that I couldn't even remember what the start/supposed crux of the route looked like. In for a penny, in for a pound...

OP tehmarks 10 Jul 2020
In reply to ipfreely:

> I've put a little chalk on my shoes just to absorbe the dampness when it's been soggy out, then cleaned them off & dry again.

That makes sense.

 Iamgregp 10 Jul 2020
In reply to tehmarks:

I saw somebody chalking up a foothold on a boulder problem at The Castle once, I think they just didn't understand what chalk is for.

 zv 10 Jul 2020
In reply to tehmarks:

The only thing chalking up shoes does is providing an extra layer that can help you slip when on a tiny foothold.

There's a reason people in comps and top end climbers obsessively make sure their shoes are spotless before they set off.

 PaulJepson 10 Jul 2020
In reply to Iamgregp:

If a foot hold is super greasy, putting some chalk on, leaving it rest for a minute, and giving a stiff brush can make it a lot better. 

1
 Iamgregp 10 Jul 2020
In reply to PaulJepson:

Yeah good shout...  That wasn't what was happening here though she was dabbing it with a chalk ball right before each attempt.   

 timparkin 10 Jul 2020
In reply to Iamgregp:

pof?

 Iamgregp 10 Jul 2020
In reply to timparkin:

No it was a normal chalk ball.

 john arran 10 Jul 2020
In reply to tehmarks:

Strangely enough, with some rubber types, if a hold is really polished, chalking it lightly can provide a little more friction. Don't ask me why!

OP tehmarks 10 Jul 2020
In reply to john arran:

Is the start of Wings of Unreason really polished? Don't tell me that, you'll put me right off!

 GGD 10 Jul 2020
In reply to tehmarks:

Definitely not, chalking up your shoes makes them perform worse.

Same is true for your hands if you chalk up excessively. Chalk doesn't improve friction, it simply absorbs moisture which would have worsened the friction between your skin and the rock.

Super clean shoes is the way to go. 'Squeak' your shoes before any serious attempt. Spit on the rubber and either rub it into your trouser leg, some fabric or use a nylon bristled washing up brush to leave the rubber clean. Oh, and take them off after each attempt and be anal about getting them dirty, don't just wonder around with them on.

Nothing worse than climbing with a bunch of crap on the soles of your rock shoes, ruins the rubber performance now, in the long term and polishes the routes faster. Really irks me when I see people belaying with shoes on for this very reason.

 Alkis 10 Jul 2020
In reply to tehmarks:

> Is the start of Wings of Unreason really polished? Don't tell me that, you'll put me right off!

No. It's sandy, as the big foothold that used to be there for the first move onto the slab broke off, but polished it is not.

OP tehmarks 11 Jul 2020
In reply to GGD:

Couldn't agree more on the importance of clean shoes. It trashes the rock in the long run, and at the immedaite time it reduces your performance. Why would you? It's a surprisingly difficult message to get through to people sometimes though, it would seem. A cursory brush-off on a trouser leg from the starting hold isn't going to do much for the dirt you've collected on the previous descent and pre-route faffing...

I must admit though, I do tend to wander around in my comfy shoes a lot. But (or maybe more because of that) they religiously get squeaked before every route. I take more care bouldering to not get them dirty to begin with, but that's just as much not wanting to properly clean my shoes a hundred times during the course of the day.

It seems like common sense physics that the less 'contamination' between the rock and the surface you want to push/pull on the better - whether that's chalk on hands, dirt on shoes or chalk on shoes. It's no different to a dusty hold - except the dust is on the bottom of your shoe. Hence my confusion - I've never seen anyone put chalk on their shoes before.

 ChrisBrooke 11 Jul 2020
In reply to tehmarks:

That’s some quality puntering (albeit on an E4). Made me laugh anyway. 
The start is awkward on a broken foot hold. Couple of easy moves. Reasonable rockover in the pocket. Surprisingly awkward jump. Due to the angle of the rock it’s quite tricky to bend your knees sufficiently for the jump without pushing yourself off the rock. Hence the exaggerated ‘ bum out, chest in’ motion. Stand in the pocket contemplating life until your calves tell you it’s now or never.... then fly. Up or down. 👍

 Fishmate 11 Jul 2020

n reply to tehmarks:

> I've never seen anyone put chalk on their shoes before.

You clearly see the folly in such behaviour, so I'm glad you haven't seen it too much. It really is quite a odd scene to get your head around, especially if it has never occured to you as being a useful act.

I work at a new bouldering facility and not only do many new climbers seem to take it upon themselves to invent how climbing might work without seeking advice from the more experienced, but they are advised on chalk use at their inductions. So yes, I have seen this and advised accordingly. They often look as though they doubt the sense in my advice

Even worse, I regularly look through Instagram etc to get an understanding of how our members take to their experience as this is a good learning exerience for me as a staff member. It informs me in many ways, setting, safety etc. I have seen members discussing a problem they are working on and the advice is often, "put loads of chalk on". We obviously advise, less chalk, more brushing!

Your post has prompted me to design a poster that might help with this issue. Good luck on your route!

 Cobra_Head 11 Jul 2020
In reply to Fishmate:

How about no chalk

 Fishmate 11 Jul 2020
In reply to Cobra_Head:

> How about no chalk


Have your hands never sweated sufficiently to make holds unusable indoors or out? 🥴


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