VIDEO: Caff climbing The Rathlin Effect (E8 6c)

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 Andy Moles 25 Jan 2020

Witnessed a couple of grumbles lately that UKC doesn't have enough 'pure climbing' content. Well, here's a good old fashioned video of a person climbing a thing, courtesy of Tops Off 4Power (best no-budget producer in the business)...

vimeo.com/386792141

Purloined from Caff's Instagram: ...best pitch of climbing I've ever done. Ricky Bells amazing Rathlin Effect at Fairhead. 70 metres long. ...big pumpy moves lead up to the roof and gear before crux moves left lead to a Dyno (I fell here on first effort!) Left for an arete and an amazing layback to a rest foot hold where you can shakeout. This is around 35 metres up and I thought it E8 to here. A little above lies ten metres of arete climbing of sustained 6b where a fall will be really big. The last 20 metres gives stunning E6 6b/c face climbing.

Anyone who's stood under this will probably agree it's one of the most inspiring lines in Britain & Ireland, totally amazing.

 jon 25 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

Brilliant!

 greg_may_ 25 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

Perfect. Sweaty hands moments aplenty. 

 Robert Durran 25 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

Came across this yesterday and had also thought of putting it on here! Utterly brilliant, totally authentic video.

In reply to Andy Moles:

Really good video, although the best moments are definitely when there isn't any music, that first sequence particularly. I love the interaction between Ricky and Caff. "Yeah, the green is good". 

Alan

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OP Andy Moles 25 Jan 2020
In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Tune's a banger though

I thought it kinda complemented Caff's style.

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In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:

Agreed, incredible climbing on really poor gear but the music is just awful and doesn't suit the film at all. Plus when he finishes the route the camera man fluffs it. 

36
 AJM 25 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

Watched one or two of their other ones featuring Fairhead too, very good...

In reply to Andy Moles:

Is the music Sergei from the Meerkats adverts? I think we all know it is.

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OP Andy Moles 25 Jan 2020
In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:

>  when he finishes the route the camera man fluffs it. 

I think the rough cut vibe is part of what makes Ricky's films so good. 

All the standard slick pro content out there is very nicely made and easy on the eye, but this makes me feel like I'm there. 

1
 The Pylon King 25 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

Brilliant video, shame about the music.

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 wbo2 25 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:personally I thought the music was great and really complemented the visuals .  

 It does look like an astonishingly good pitch and an absolute monster 

Post edited at 15:41
 danm 25 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

Excellent shout Andy, always good to see Caff in a position of mortal danger

I'd like to propose a moratorium on negative comments regarding the music on climbing videos. Music taste is a personal thing, so you'll never please everyone, hence a discussion of it just becomes pointless noise - the very thing people are, from their perspective, complaining about!

Route looks absolutely bonkers doesn't it, what a legend Ricky is eh?

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 Max Hangs 25 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

Awesome video

Anyone know what the song is?

 Coel Hellier 25 Jan 2020
In reply to danm:

> Music taste is a personal thing, so you'll never please everyone, ...

Which is why you shouldn't put music like that on otherwise-good climbing videos.

People should set out to make a climbing video; or a music video.  They shouldn't confuse themselves as to which they're doing. 

And while I'm on, speeded-up climbing in videos and rapid switches of frames are always naff. 

But there were some good bits to the video (the real-time, non-music bits)!

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Blanche DuBois 25 Jan 2020
In reply to Coel Hellier:

> Which is why you shouldn't put music like that on otherwise-good climbing videos.

Rubbish.  Not all the climbing world consists of out of touch wrinklies (obviously, anyone spending significant time on UKC might be forgiven for thinking otherwise).  You could always turn the volume down or turn off your hearing aid.

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 danm 25 Jan 2020
In reply to Coel Hellier:

Which part of the word moratorium don't you understand?

4
 Robert Durran 25 Jan 2020
In reply to Coel Hellier:

> Which is why you shouldn't put music like that on otherwise-good climbing videos.

> And while I'm on, speeded-up climbing in videos and rapid switches of frames are always naff. 

> But there were some good bits to the video (the real-time, non-music bits)!

I didn't mind the music though I agree the best bit was the real time flailing before falling with occasional close ups of the gear (so relatale to!) without music.

I agree completely that speeded up bits in climbing videos are dreadful (I'm quite happy to sit through a five minute shake-out while the tension builds) but I didn't actually notice any here!

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 Wicamoi 25 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

Thanks, an excellent video.

And for those with prescriptive rules about obtrusive music and speeded up sequences, I'd particularly like to I recommend Broken Toe (also from Tops Off For Power).

vimeo.com/42893621

 danm 25 Jan 2020
In reply to Wicamoi:

Pure gold that.

 Martin Haworth 25 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles: Superb.

 Robert Durran 25 Jan 2020
In reply to Wicamoi:

> And for those with prescriptive rules about obtrusive music and speeded up sequences, I'd particularly like to I recommend Broken Toe (also from Tops Off For Power).

Raddest vid on here for ages. I'd have quite happily watched that in real time all day. Bangin' toon too.

1
 Ben Callard 25 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

That was great. Thanks for sharing. 

 Ciro 26 Jan 2020
In reply to Coel Hellier:

> People should set out to make a climbing video; or a music video.  They shouldn't confuse themselves as to which they're doing. 

People should set out to make whatever tickles their fancy. 

 FactorXXX 26 Jan 2020
In reply to Ciro:

> People should set out to make whatever tickles their fancy. 

Of course they should, but if a sizeable number think the music section of the video was a bit rubbish and spoilt an otherwise excellent video, then wouldn't it make sense for the makers to take that on board and perhaps do a new version?
Up to them obviously, but I personally found the initial section fantastic and absorbing and then just fast forwarded when the music started. 

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OP Andy Moles 26 Jan 2020
In reply to FactorXXX:

> wouldn't it make sense for the makers to take that on board and perhaps do a new version?

Haha. No.

Because it wasn't made for profit or sponsors or to appease the anonymous denizens of the UKC Forum. 

I shared it because I thought it was class. It's irreverent and fun and it showcases an amazing bit of rock and climbing. If some of moderate taste are offended by it, those people may press the pause button and stop watching the video, and everyone is happy.

1
 wbo2 26 Jan 2020
In reply to FactorXXX: turn the volume down.   Not difficult. 

And not everyone loves twiddly fiddly pseudo folk either but we don't spend time moaning about it

1
 bensilvestre 26 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

Tune's a total banger. Definitely stuck in my head for the day. Anyone know what it is? Great vid too. 

 dinodinosaur 26 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

How does ukc manage to turn what was a decent post trying to actually put a great bit of trad climbing film content out there, into an argument about something relatively irrelevant! From what I've seen there doesn't seem to be much good trad based stuff out there (all recommendations taken!) and the helmet cam stuff sends me dizzy. Bouldering is just way easier to capture quality footage without the need for static lines and lots of faff in the set ups. 

 Robert Durran 26 Jan 2020
In reply to dinodinosaur:

> How does ukc manage to turn what was a decent post trying to actually put a great bit of trad climbing film content out there, into an argument about something relatively irrelevant!

Because everyone agrees that the actual film is brilliant (apart, of course, from the cameraman fluffing the onsight), so, really, the only possible point of discussion is the music. And this is a discussion forum after all........

Why do some people come on UKC to try to shut down discussion rather than contribute to it? Baffles me!

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OP Andy Moles 26 Jan 2020
In reply to dinodinosaur:

> How does ukc manage to turn [anything] into an argument

I don't know, but it's a pity.

I was skeptical of the claims of some who'd been on the UKC forums since their inception that they originally had a more positive and supportive vibe, more of a sense of community. Then a search for something or other led me through a couple of posts from 2002, and I was surprised to find that the claim rang true.

Maybe they have simply got too big? Maybe it takes only a small proportion of antagonistic posters to tip the balance the wrong way? Maybe the internet in general has grown into a more disagreeable place, where people feel uninhibited to shoot from the hip? I certainly recognise I've been guilty of posting pointless kneejerk reactions to things. It's tempting and too easy.

I wouldn't want to suppress disagreement or even argument, but the tone in which it's enacted could be so much healthier. The 'would you say it like that to someone's face' principle is a pretty good one, (though invariably met with 'yes I would', which makes me think I'm fortunate to encounter fewer bell-ends at the crag than apparently exist

On the other hand, the opinionated middle-aged men of UKC do, unwittingly, provide some good entertainment.

EDIT: this is totally off-topic, if anyone feels deeply motivated to pursue this discussion further, perhaps you should start another thread.

Post edited at 10:36
 Coel Hellier 26 Jan 2020
In reply to dinodinosaur:

> a great bit of trad climbing film content out there, into an argument about something relatively irrelevant!

The music is not "irrelevant" to the video, it's a central part of the experience of watching the video.

If a producer doesn't want the music to be a central part of the video (and hence of discussion of the video), why include the music?  

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 TobyA 26 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

Yep - can't quite see how anyone can wound up by a minute or so of music - whether they don't like it or not - when you're watching someone do a climb like that! Wow.

Two questions I was left with:

1) Why does Caff have some wires just clipped to one krab? I would have thought on 70 mtrs you'd want everything pretty extented to minimise rope drag and to stop things being lifted out.  To save weight perhaps?

2) What language is the song? I thought Russian first but thought its slavic sounding but not Russian. Polish or Czech maybe?

 Robert Durran 26 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

> I wouldn't want to suppress disagreement or even argument, but the tone in which it's enacted could be so much healthier.

Sometimes, yes, but I really don't think that applies here - seems pretty good humoured to me.

In reply to Andy Moles:

Great film. Shite music. Enjoyed it a lot, muted.

OP Andy Moles 26 Jan 2020
In reply to Robert Durran:

Aye, I was responding to the question generally, and thus going off-topic.

Back on topic, it's interesting that Caff has called this route a 'sandbag' more than once. I guess 'sandbagging' at E8 level only applies to the few who are likely to try ground-up, but coming from someone who has ground-upped the likes of Divided Years, it suggests this one is a bit of a step up. From his description it sounds a bit like two E8s stacked on top of each other, with a shakeout in between. From the point of view of one less capable, it makes me think the closest I might get is to lower in and do the headwall on a toppy

In reply to Longsufferingropeholder:

Great film, great track. Always rate Ricky’s films, such a genius

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OP Andy Moles 26 Jan 2020
In reply to TobyA:

> To save weight perhaps?

Maybe. I think both ascensionists have dropped one rope at the shakeout too.

> 2) What language is the song?

Kazakh?

 mike123 26 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

I really enjoyed the video and didn't mind the music , for some reason though it did make think of this :

https://www.thedailymash.co.uk/features/what-sort-of-music-prick-are-you-20...

( not aimed at anybody more than myself  ) 

OP Andy Moles 26 Jan 2020
In reply to mike123:

Classic Mash, before it became rubbish (you can probably extrapolate from this what sort of music prick I am). 'Deep tw*t-flex chillax house groove' made me laugh out loud, then and now.

 dinodinosaur 26 Jan 2020
In reply to Robert Durran:

There's a difference between discussion and argument. In this case you are right, but in too many cases I see a pleasant discussion turn rapidly into heated debate then full blown arguments which lead nowhere. 

Video is epic, music is marmite, love Ricky's videos 

 mike123 26 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles: I ve just been looking for the article, it might have been about hipsters , that refers to them liking music that ..... " You haven't heard of " .... 

 ericinbristol 26 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

AAARGH! STUPID editing! Missing out loads of the moves! It's meant to be a CLIMBING video, not a CLBG video! It's not pure climbing content, far from it, with the damn music killing the atmosphere. The start of the video was great, then the rest was rubbish

Post edited at 13:18
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OP Andy Moles 26 Jan 2020
In reply to ericinbristol:

Goodness me. It's a 70 metre pitch. He was probably on lead for a couple of hours. If you really want to watch that unedited, you must have an admirable attention span or a lot of time on your hands.

2
 ericinbristol 26 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

Yawn. Thanks for the deliberate misinterpretation of my comment. You know what I meant 

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OP Andy Moles 26 Jan 2020
In reply to ericinbristol:

Where's the misinterpretation? You complain that lots of the moves are missed out. To show all the moves would be pretty much unedited footage.

Having done a bit of editing of climbing footage, I can tell you it's pretty hard not to miss out loads of the moves without stretching to epic length and becoming very tedious, because most moves are not flowing and decisive but involve shuffling and adjustment.

1
 ericinbristol 26 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

All the way through the crux sequences the footage every few seconds jumps to slightly further into the action. I am not talking about the fiddling about while adjusting and not doing the moves. I am talking about missing out the moves themselves (and on the extended crux, not on the plodding and fiddling in gear for ages. You seriously didn't know I meant that?  

11
OP Andy Moles 26 Jan 2020
In reply to ericinbristol:

I thought you meant over the route as a whole, which if you look at your post again, isn't too unreasonable an interpretation.

But hey, it's not important. I'm sorry you didn't like the video Eric. I hope you feel better now.

1
 ericinbristol 26 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

Fair enough.

Please accept my apologies for the ranting.

1
OP Andy Moles 26 Jan 2020
In reply to ericinbristol:

I'm coming to find it a bit of a hoot just how marmite this video apparently is. 

 Climber_Bill 26 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

Awesome videos and music.

Thanks for posting.

TJB.

In reply to Andy Moles:

Share with us the excellent video that you made of climbing in the Salbit, I'm sure the good people of UKC will love the soundtrack.

 Wicamoi 26 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

> I'm coming to find it a bit of a hoot just how marmite this video apparently is. 

Not sure the like to dislike ratio on your OP really supports this 'marmite' claim!

 rachelpearce01 26 Jan 2020
In reply to Coel Hellier:

If Ricky wants to use that song I think it’s totally up to him! I don’t think he’s doing it to please anybody else! I thought it was cool to see caff giving it some time effort and you could tell it was the real deal. Straightforward filming but not straightforward climbing!

OP Andy Moles 26 Jan 2020
In reply to Wicamoi:

Had to turn them on to check which way you meant, bit of a different story to the comments!

OP Andy Moles 26 Jan 2020
In reply to Will_Thomas_Harris:

I think that would be laying on the marmite a bit thick.

In reply to Andy Moles:

I also enjoy rough, raw climbing films. Free Solo was a great example of over-editing. There is almost zero footage of Honnold in a wild position (in any film that's ever been released), soloing, uncut for 30 seconds or more. They always do those 'zoom-in's on the holds and close ups of Honnold, where all you really want is an uncut shot of him with a wide angle lense progressing slowly up. They had already talked about the boulder problem for ages in the build up so further close ups were really unneccesary. 

The film of Caff is great, but muting out the (obviously love it or hate it) music detracts from the conversation with the belayer/breathing/wind etc and at the end I really wanted to see his reactions as he tops out, but all you got was the inside of the film makers clothing. Not trying to be negative, just reacting to a film which apparently is not the done thing! 

6
OP Andy Moles 27 Jan 2020
In reply to purplemonkeyelephant:

Nah that's cool, it's a legit point of view.

 JLS 27 Jan 2020
In reply to ericinbristol:

>"All the way through the crux sequences the footage every few seconds jumps to slightly further into the action."

Yeah, I agree. We spent ages at the crux where he eventually fell then on the send we skipped through it in a fraction of a second. It would have been nicer to have seen the new arrangement of protection being placed and a bit of build up to actually doing the hard move.

That said, this is a zero budget production, we can hardly expect Star Wars...

Post edited at 08:34
 ebdon 27 Jan 2020
In reply to TobyA:

I was curious about the nut direct into the snap gate as well, I only ever do this when I'm pumped out of my mind and have run out of draws, is this some trad trick I've been missing out on?

I thought the music worked quite well IMO

 Rob Parsons 27 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

Great bit of climbing. What a pitch!

 jon 27 Jan 2020
In reply to ebdon:

I agree, normally you'd expect to put a quickdraw on, especially on a long wandering pitch like that, to stop the nut from pulling out. I notice he clips what looks like a peg just above, which he obviously knew was there. This would prevent the nut from pulling outwards, so maybe that's the reason. 

 TobyA 27 Jan 2020
In reply to jon:

I also wondered if the nuts on single krabs might just be there as some almost psychological protection as you do a hard move up to a better hold or a proper reliable piece of pro? I did think it seemed like he clipped something better not long afterwards if I remember it correctly. So perhaps something marginal that might just take body weight but you're not relying on to hold a real fall?

 olddirtydoggy 27 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

Wonderful vid. Can we have some content like this on the front page please?

 Smelly Fox 28 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

The best climbing vid I’ve seen in a long time. Superb if you crank the volume up! Chapeau!

 Michael Gordon 28 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

Good video, pity about the 'music'

9
 Mr Lopez 28 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

There's a press release just out from the producers. Those that didn't like the music are welcome to contact their office to receive a full refund of what they paid to watch the film. Apparently the first 20 people to do so also get a free CD of mongolian death metal as a further apology.

Post edited at 11:18
 TobyA 28 Jan 2020
In reply to Mr Lopez:

I heard a thing on the BBC a year or so ago about the Mongolian metal scene. Are you a fan?

Still no one has told me what language the song is in this video - it's starting to bother me that I don't know!

 Coel Hellier 28 Jan 2020
In reply to Mr Lopez:

> Apparently the first 20 people to do so also get a free CD of mongolian death metal as a further apology.

Awesome!  I shall have to complain about videos more often if I get Mongolian death metal in return!  It'll go nicely with the stuff Fiend puts on his Facebook feed.

In reply to Andy Moles:

> Tune's a banger though

> I thought it kinda complemented Caff's style.

Just to clarify in light of some of the negative stuff about the music and the way I introduced it - I had no problem with the actual music, but I felt the intensity and tension of the first sequence was a brilliant bit of filming of an extreme trad lead and the sort of thing that we don't see very often. Many of us will have found ourselves in (much) less extreme situations but with familiar emotions - battling the pump, doubting the gear, apologising for what we think is faffing, getting a really crap rest and trying to milk it, checking the gear again. This bit was special and I think it was made much better by not having music. The rest was good and the music was fine (although not in my Spotify list but I am an old geezer).

Alan

 Mr Lopez 28 Jan 2020
In reply to TobyA:

> I heard a thing on the BBC a year or so ago about the Mongolian metal scene. Are you a fan?

Friends of mine are. I thought it was a curious novelty at first but it has grown on me and quite enjoy it now when in moderation. Ha, ha.

> Still no one has told me what language the song is in this video - it's starting to bother me that I don't know!

I think somebody indentified it above as being from Kazakhstan?

 TobyA 28 Jan 2020
In reply to Mr Lopez:

> I think somebody indentified it above as being from Kazakhstan?

I presumed that was a joke, Borat style. I'm pretty certain the song is a Slavic language and I don't know, but I think Kazakh is Turkic - hence why I thought it was a joke!

Post edited at 12:58
 climbercool 28 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

youtube.com/watch?v=ECWwpmP3spY&

It's from kazakhstan so if its not Russian it will be Kazakh.  bit of an out there/crazy song for a climbing movie, but i love it!  listened to it 5 times already today.  It's like Gangnam style, but not shit.

 Mr Lopez 28 Jan 2020
In reply to TobyA:

Found the post and it's got a lnk to it. It seems to be Kazakh after all. Here's the lyrics so the UKC folk can sing along while watching the video

Zyn Zyn (ЗЫН ЗЫН)

Э брат, рэп капец залетел

Енді полный трек керек, только минусты қайтеміз?

Давай бүйтеміз

Дыкын-дыкын-дыкын-дыкын-дыкын-дыкын

Өй тема, кетіп жатыр ғой мынау

Ақ футболка мен жынды очки

Менің Приорам как с фильма “Тачки”

Қалтамда бар “Two lesbian”

MP3 плеер, сағыз “Frutti”

Біз жылжимыз, қаңғырамыз

Қарасам тұр алдымда қыз

Вашей маме взять не нужен?

Приглашу в “донерку” тебя на ужин

А Так та мен простой емеспін

Конкретно к тебе выкатил как Элвис Пресли

Ооууу, кім екенін білмеймін

Ағылшын тілге миым жетпейді

Эй, түріне қарап алайын

Бүйтіп қарасам – қарапайым

- Атың кім болады?

- Айым

- Онда саған спортивкам дайын

Менің ішімде көбелек

Жұрмін индийский фильмдегідей билеп

Өз түрім қара домалақ пақ пақ пақ

Баклажан қазақша – жертатақ

- Эй что там қайдан боласын?

- Шымкент

Шымкенттің қыздары зың зың зың…

Ал Мика болса вообще дын дын дын…

Көздері оның дәу дәу дәу…

Шықтым үйден формамды үтіктеп

- Че қалай брат?

- Ептеп, ет жеп

Бүгінгі цель қалаға шығу

Арасында 3-4 қыз сындыру

Көздері банкі прямой осанка

Че там делать? Вперед как танка

Құралай көз, қолаң шаш

Алма мойын, қиғаш қас

Хопс-попс Дженифер Лопс

Сен менің айфоным

Мен Стив Джобс

Баланс болмаса Майл ру агент

Сенің фигуран ат екен

Әрі-бері Том и Джери Кэти Пери Джим Кери

Общение, печенье, головокружение

Әкеі ауыз Санта Клаус күшті мультик Микки Маус

Ауырып қалдым сенімен қайда жүрсін Доктор Хаус

Сердце-Жүрек

Лопата-Күрек

Сүйіп қалдым сені

Лол кек чебурек

Любовь-Махаббат

Шоколад-Чикалад

Ты моя Нюша я Нуртас Кайрат

- Эй че там вообще қайдан боласың?

- Ақтау

Ақтаудың қыздары тәш тәш тәш…

Ал Айка болса вообще тың тың тың…

Еріңдері оның нәң нәң нәң…

Post edited at 13:13
 Coel Hellier 28 Jan 2020
In reply to Mr Lopez:

> Here's the lyrics so the UKC folk can sing along while watching the video

I'd like to see Caff "onsight" the pronunciation of that.

 Mr Lopez 28 Jan 2020
In reply to Coel Hellier:

A headpoint would be just as impressive

In reply to Mr Lopez:

Love the song very quirky, adds a little frivolity into an otherwise fraught situation.

 Rab6t 28 Jan 2020
In reply to Andy Moles:

Cool video with some funky moves and music...

 TobyA 28 Jan 2020
In reply to Mr Lopez:

This is getting a little off the subject but most of the former Soviet Union States have ethnic Russian populations who were left 'stranded' after the fall of the USSR. So it's quite possible that the kazakh rapper could rap in Russian. 

Perhaps it is the accent of a Kazakh speaking Russian that threw me off the scent originally!

Post edited at 20:14
In reply to Andy Moles:

Best thing I have seen on here for a long time! Thanks for posting it

Hated the music at first but at the end I skipped the start and watched it again from when the music comes in. 


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