Bolts on grit

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 Fruit 17 Jul 2019

Windgather Rocks

A recent post casually mentioned installation of ‘belay and abseil’ bolts at Windgather.

At what point does a slide down a slippery slope begin? When you recognise it is it too late to arrest the fall? 

17
 Jon Read 17 Jul 2019
In reply to Fruit:

I saw the thread but assumed it was just 'banter'. Is there any evidence they exist?

OP Fruit 17 Jul 2019
In reply to Jon Read:

I hope that’s the case.

 deepsoup 17 Jul 2019
In reply to Fruit:

> I hope that’s the case.

It is.  You're just experiencing a momentary sense of humour failure, don't worry.

It's just a bit of joshing on the other thread, about the nature of the lost property that Nik has found.  (Though he never actually said it's a drill just mentioned the brand, there are other power tools it might have been, presumably dropped or misplaced out of somebody's van in the layby.)

 andyman666999 17 Jul 2019
In reply to Fruit:

I would argue that once it’s too late to arrest a fall it’s well past the start and more likely closer to the end.  

OP Fruit 17 Jul 2019
In reply to deepsoup:

Lol ok fell for it!

 Offwidth 17 Jul 2019
In reply to Fruit:

Hardly paranoia as bolts were placed for belays on Windgather in the past and when they got chopped, holes were left for removable bolts by an unknown outdoor group (that those who disliked that filled with dust). 

 Dan Arkle 17 Jul 2019
In reply to thread:

And don't forget the vintage bolts on grit routes at Wimberry, Rivelin, millstone etc that nobody is bothered about enough to chop! 

 Iamgregp 17 Jul 2019
In reply to Fruit:

Oh sweet we can bolt up grit now?!  Great news!

I'm gonna go and pop some into Gaia this weekend - I think 8-10 ought to do it...

Can't wait, gonna be such a great sport route but too scary as a trad one!

6
In reply to deepsoup:

A very accurate interpretation of my post,  my rigging friend. Lynn sends best wishes (& I hope you are well too!!)

Cragtyke is just being funny/naughty in his normal-for-Barnsley manner

 cragtyke 17 Jul 2019
In reply to buxtoncoffeelover:

I thought it was worth a good 2/10!

I may have developed a touch of Gibsonitis following a tick bite in one of the obscure Peak limestone quarries that I've been frequenting of late.

In reply to cragtyke:

It was certainly worth points - it got a bite

 deepsoup 18 Jul 2019
In reply to buxtoncoffeelover:

Ah, lovely Lynn.  My best wishes to her too. 
Yes, all good here ta.  I hope to bump into you at the crag some time, though to be honest I'm doing most of my climbing indoors these days, shocking eh?

Cragtyke is being hard on himself, I'd give it 3/10 at least!  As you say, bonus marks for getting a bite.

 kevin stephens 18 Jul 2019
In reply to Fruit:

I assume the abseil/belay bolt on top of the Valkyrie Pinnacle at Froggat is still there? Exception that prove the rule? In the old days it was all part of the trad craft to arrange a belay and descent from Valkyrie. Of course we can bend the rules for HVS climbers but not for children to get their first climbing experience at Windgather; a crag committed climbers don't use to practice their art

Post edited at 08:09
14
In reply to kevin stephens:

Will somebody please think of the children!

 kevin stephens 18 Jul 2019
In reply to DubyaJamesDubya:

Or simply chop the ring bolt on Valkyrie would be simpler and purer, then there would be no argument

1
In reply to kevin stephens:

I'm not averse to that

2
 Dan Arkle 18 Jul 2019
In reply to all:

The current 'consensus' works for me. The Valkyrie ab bolt stays. Historic oddities can be left to decay. And anything new and shiny will be immediately chopped!!! 

2
In reply to Dan Arkle:

> The current 'consensus' works for me. The Valkyrie ab bolt stays. Historic oddities can be left to decay. And anything new and shiny will be immediately chopped!!! 

Sounds sensible.

It would be nice if people stopped using the Valkyrie bolt as justification for new ones though.

Post edited at 13:01
1
 Knut R. 18 Jul 2019
In reply to Fruit:

Careful. Someone's going to get triggered hard just reading the title. Ken Nichols is probably having PTSD just seeing this post.

Post edited at 20:49
Deadeye 18 Jul 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

There is a single, rather rusty, bolt on Stanage too.

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 18 Jul 2019
In reply to deepsoup:

> It's just a bit of joshing on the other thread, about the nature of the lost property that Nik has found. 

Joshing is OK when everyone knows it is joshing. A few years back a respected climbing site published some very snowy pictures of Millstone and described it as 'in'. Within 24 hours some youths were caught dry tooling on The Embankment and were pilloried.

Chris

OP Fruit 19 Jul 2019
In reply to kevin stephens:

“a crag committed climbers don't use to practice their art”

Confusing opinion with fact?

 DerwentDiluted 19 Jul 2019
In reply to Deadeye:

> There is a single, rather rusty, bolt on Stanage too.

On... bolt buttress I believe.  Though this bolt is a metallic relic demarking the termination of an agricultural boundary.

The, err, Tin end of the hedge, if you will.

 Graeme Hammond 19 Jul 2019
In reply to Fruit:

I think it is remarkable that we haven't seen and acts of major misguided bolting on grit. Obviously buying the equipment is a barrier but even so grit has stayed almost completely bolt free whilst many limestone crags have been developed or routes retro bolted. 

I've done a few grit routes here and there and have only come across a handful of new bolts all in Lancashire. With the rest being historical most aid bolts.

I've compiled the following list of locations of grit bolts, any that I've missed there must be some I've forgotten in some grotty quarries?

Guillotine (E3 5c) - has new unnecessary double bolt lower off just to its right at the top, there is 2 bolts on a line to the right of it climbing what looks like the remains post rock fall of Shudabindun

Supercrack (E3 5c) - has a probably unessarry but helpful new bolted lower!

Mein Kampf (E3 5c) - new bolts placed on this is crap hard to clip locations not like for like replacement, hangers have apparently been removed

Troy Quarry - lots of unessarry bolts for belaying at the top as there are stakes & natural placements.

Top Loader (E7 6c) - old aid bolts

The Cat Test (E6 6b) - old? On this or on wall either side of.

Turtle (E1 5b) - old

Baron Greenback (E9 7a) - old aid studs!!

War of the Roses (E4 6b) - old aid bolt.

The Roost - new - lower offs so you don't top out and cause access problems.

Plenty old/new at Hoghton Quarry

Not grit but a bolt (no hanger) has been placed in the last few months on the  Cromlech boulders

Post edited at 15:26
 Jon Read 19 Jul 2019
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

There's two (old and new) on Black Mamba (E4 6b) at  Wilton 1, a location with a number of misdemeanours. 

 mrphilipoldham 19 Jul 2019
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

There's a selection of bolts to aid descent at  Den Lane Quarry, haven't yet noted any on routes yet mind.

 Graeme Hammond 19 Jul 2019
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Just remembered Lazy Day (with old bolts) (E3 5c)

 mark hounslea 19 Jul 2019
In reply to Fruit:

There is a fully bolted route on Shining Cliff

 Graeme Hammond 19 Jul 2019
In reply to mark hounslea:

See the previous post!

 ChrisClark1 19 Jul 2019
In reply to Graeme Hammond:

Don't forget the abseil bolt on the Pinnacle on Froggatt . Seemingly quite a popular addition considering it's a bolt in quite a traditional crag

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