Bludgers Revelation

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 John Kelly 12 May 2023

Does the sun ever make it round there?

If so what part of the day

only been in there in March, chilly, but hoping to have another go this week

Thanks

Post edited at 19:12
In reply to John Kelly:

This may not be too helpful but some years ago during a hot summer I managed to climb many of the classics on Slime Wall in one week. I don't remember the sun hitting us any time between 9am and 6pm. Perhaps earlier or later it may?

 Nathan Adam 12 May 2023
In reply to John Kelly:

The top of the right hand side around Shibboleth gets the sun in the evening in June and July IIRC, when most of the best NW facing mountain crags get the sun. Always my preferred time to be up there as it’s generally quieter so no issues with anyone else being around.

Bludgers however doesn’t, it’s lower down and left on the wall so the sun disappears before it gets a chance to catch it. It’s maybe not a bad thing, as climbing on Slime Wall in the burning sunshine probably wouldn’t be that much fun anyway.  

 Mike-W-99 13 May 2023
In reply to John Kelly:

I was up there today, looked pretty much dry apart from maybe the very bottom. 1st thing it would have been pretty cold so we did the June crack/may crack combo instead.

 Rob Parsons 15 May 2023
In reply to John Kelly:

I did that route many years ago - and I didn't think the climbing was anything special. (Obviously, the hill it's on is very picturesque - but that's not the same thing.)

Am I a complete philistine? Did I miss something in particular?

6
 mike barnard 17 May 2023
In reply to Rob Parsons:

It maybe depends on your mood at the time or perhaps where the standard lies relative to your ability. I would say the link pitch is a great piece of bold climbing and the big flake's pretty cool, if easy, but yes, I've enjoyed other routes more.

OP John Kelly 18 May 2023
In reply to John Kelly:

Thanks for all helpful comments, as it was weather in Scotland was questionable so got sunburnt at Gogarth instead, cheers John 

 Mark Bannan 28 May 2023
In reply to mike barnard:

> It maybe depends on your mood at the time or perhaps where the standard lies relative to your ability. 

Could be true. Bludgers has always been the only route I could have aspired to on this face. When I did it in 2002, I led about HVS/E1, while my mate Chris was leading E2. Worked well, from my point of view - leading the Link pitch was plenty exciting enough for me! I certainly didn't find the flake pitch easy (good lead by Chris; I was glad to be 2nding!). I thought it was one of the best routes I have ever done, but I never led above consistent mountain E1. I'm sure a better climber than me may prefer Shibboleth or Apparition, but I have never been in a position to comment about these harder routes, myself!

IIRC, there are no real classics below E2, apart from Bludger's. Raven's Edge (VS) is obviously a bit easier, but it's on Cuneiform Buttress.

Post edited at 16:57
 Rick Graham 28 May 2023
In reply to Mark Bannan:

Doom arete and bloody crack are both given E1. Solid at the grade and three stars each.

From the top of doom, it finishes lower than bludgers, traverse left on easy slabs to place bomber nuts at the top of a wide crack,  40 m ish ab from here takes you to the bottom of bloody.

After bloody , traverse left to downclimb north buttress chimneys, at the foot of these , traverse right along the lower terrace , pass behind a 1 .5 m block and down a very exposed easy ramp to the ab point insitu that you noticed on the way up bludgers. 50m ab back to gearing up spot .

Checked out again  last week, it's taken me 50 years as a slime wall admirer to get this beta nailed, just need to get lechers dry enough now, unless I get an offer to take me up the E4s.

 Mark Bannan 03 Jun 2023
In reply to Rick Graham:

> Doom arete and bloody crack are both given E1. Solid at the grade and three stars each.

Never got around to them, I'm afraid! I think that during the short time I led E1, I was very often hunting more famous routes (such as Yo-Yo, Trophy Crack and Via Dolorosa).

Post edited at 00:53

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