In reply to JoeFoster59:
Few thoughts on some of the routes on this thread and probably not totally popular
Masochism (E1 5b) yes the first crack is steep and hard but at the top exit using the good ledge on the RHS rather than trying to climb the crack direct. This is super well protected followed by a massive rest before the actually quite easy upper crack. Traditional/jamming climbing but only one move well protected move exiting onto the first ledge does not equal E3. Rather pissed off I was not climbing well that day it went 2nd go. Would probably grade E1 5c so hardly a big sandbag.
The Toy (E1 5c) yes it's hard, but again it is only hard for a few meters with excellent gear (you can get fairly far and with a decent wire before it gets more difficult), and the moves whilst thin are obvious straight forward so I felt the 5c was more for strength/small holds than technicality. Not long enough/dangerous or difficult to work out to warrant a higher grade. top end of E1 is a good place to leave it.
Easy Picking (E2 6b) feels very tough but the landing zone for the bottom boulder problem is reasonable and can be dynoed to good gear before 2nd crux which is very well protected if you can't do it static. Compare with Rat Scabies also 6b but but E3 which has a much higher bouldering start which i won't want to do without mats! I think the E2 6b grade reflects the climbing well ie super safe but completely nails. Also compare with the boggatt again a nails E2 6b boulder problem crux (possible gear but blocks a hold) with a poorer landing but easier VS climbing above and it seems comparable. Fo
The Unprintable (E1 5b) just use a knee when it gets to the alkward bit everyone seems to find really hard and it's not actually that bad. Super well protected, even if a little alkward it's miles off being as hard as the dangler next to it. Traditional safe but well protected jamming E1, basically all over after the well protected hard bit.
Figging saw, the one at Wharncliffe I don't know of any others but has been E3 for ages? The 89 guide gives it E3 (it was done it 83) is the centre of the wall left of sidewinder (bizarre as there isn't really a wall here and is easy ground). The 2005 (also E3) says the centre of the wall up and right of sidewinder, a variation from sidewinder to himmelswillen. The notes from when might have done it: The E3 Line must either be a bullshit eliminate up wall to the left of the arête eliminating both the arête and avoiding the HS to the left as per the BMC guide (which has no topo) though it mentions going into Himmelswillen so still confusing (hence the dagger symbol in the guide?) or seriously over graded/non existent. Climbed as per the latest Rockfax guide "The roof and blunt arête" which is good climbing over the overhang on the arête but is around E1 5b but actually quite good.
Linklime - is this a typo? Don't know this one.
Tower crack, well protected but steep jamming with some rests, not too technical so HVS is fair.
Zarke (HVS 5a) now this did feel desperate and not well protected, bad day or way this E2!
Ravensheugh Crag now everything we climbed there felt proper hard Baluster Crack (HVS 5b) makes Masochism look soft!!!!