UKH

There has been a couple of recent threads concerning trad racks. I always find discussions on racks interesting, there are lots of opinions about what is best, rock types etc. It’s been discussed plenty before but some users might find the topic useful or interesting, so: What is your optimum trad rack?

 I’ll start.

2 x DMM Wallnuts 1 to 7

1 x Wallnuts 8 to 12

1 selection of various micro wires(Micro Wallnuts, BD micro stoppers, Brass offsets)

Cams in order of sizes

Camelot 2,1,0.75

Alien Revolution 1,0.75

Camelot 0.3

Alien CCH 3/8 and 1/3

Dragonfly 3

Old tiny Red microcam 

That is my standard rack which can be supplemented with Camelot 3,4 or 5 for big cracks. Extra wires if I think I’ll need a lot of a particular size. Also have a few extra cams available.

I should add that I use 5 short quick draws, 4 medium quick draws and between 5 and 9 slingdraws. 

Obviously for short grit routes the rack and QuickDraw numbers can be reduced, and for some long routes on places like Gogarth red walls I take extra sling draws.

For grit:

• 1x set Wallnuts 1-11 plus whichever BD Micro Stopper is the next size down from Wallnut #1
• Totem cams black-red
• Dragon cams gold-blue
• However many quickdraws seems appropriate, including at least 1 60cm slingdraw
• 2-3x 120cm sling
• Belay-making krabs
• Optional: 1x set offsets, #4 brass to largest alloy
• Optional: 1x set Torque nuts
• Optional: Tricams black-blue, beige
• Optional: large silver Dragon cam

Optional gear lives with my rack but only gets taken up a route if there's an obvious need for it - eg if there's a long cam-eating hand crack, I'll take hand-size hexes and the large Tricam. Similarly, if the route obviously only takes small gear in narrow breaks, I won't take large cams but I might take the small Tricams for their problem-solving potential.

Edit: it's also preferable to climb with a partner who can provide another full set of cams, for those times when you do start up the aforementioned cam-eating hand crack. A gold hex might be the right size, but it's a lot more time and energy to place than wacking the right cam into the perfect placement right in front of you...

You make this bigger???? I'd think that rack you've got there would be my top size Gogarth rack. Rare I ever take more than 10 draws total. 

I'd be replacing your third set of medium wallnuts with a set of offset wallnuts. 

Otherwise looks good. 

I’m can think of a few routes where I’ve used at least 18 runners.

Wendigo (E2 5b)

Communication Breakdown (E3 5c)

The Sind (E3 5b)

Pterodactyl (E3 5b)

Even after lacing these routes they felt run out and scary.

i will often try and run two pitches together if I can.

Which set do you mean, one of the sets of 1 to 7 or the 8 to 12?

I do have a set of offsets but never really got on well with them.

I can't take any attempt of a 'best trad rack' seriously without the inclusion of a pink tricam. 🙂

Does that mean I'm winning? 😉

I'd certainly add a second set of nuts (another brand than DMM), a set of offsets and a set of DMM torque nuts.

When sea cliff climbing and you're likely to get soaked by waves or spray - your partner's rack! 

When climbing alpine routes in questionable conditions, when you're probably going to need make a massive, crazy, epic abseil retreat - your partner's rack!

When winter climbing in traditional UK marginal conditions and melting ice when you'll probably only get half a pitch up and need to back off - your partner's rack! 

When climbing ridiculous scary mixed horror shows where you'll incessantly hammer wires, hooks and pins until they are welded into the rock - definitely your partner's rack...

It's been so long since I went gear shopping I don't recognise many of the name on your kit list.

My rack has a selection of Rocks (at least 3 no 4 cos they were ideal for Northumberland).  2 or 3 RPs. Several Hexes on rope. A few friends - mainly rigid but I do have a few flexible ones, a set of tricams and 8 or 9 quickdraws.  Add in a sticht plate and a nut key for good measure.

To each their own, but assuming you split one quickdraw at each belay, on a 45m route (not that unusual) that's 1 piece every 5m. Not leaving you much margin for error should you find marginal placements or feel the need to construct a bomb shelter.

But, like I said, to each their own.

Good to see mention of a nut key. I acquired most of my rack 'cos I'm good with a nut key.

Surely it is completely rock-dependent?

10 draws is overkill for most grit. On a 40m+ pitch at Wyndcliff you would be running it out. 

A load of cams is adequate for grit, but on limestone I'll carry anything and everything.

Totems in smaller sizes are baller on limestone but I don't know if you can beat the crunch of seating a single-axle Technical Friend on grit.

Micro-wires essential for a lot of limestone slabs and slate. Pointless on a lot of grit. 

Need loads of alpine draws for 3D granite but not necessary on plumb cracks. 

Some pitches in Avon, all you need is one draw to clip the lone rusty peg in the middle. 

My Lakes rack for E1:

Nuttage: a few micronuts, depending on expectations; 1-11 wallnuts; 1-7 rocks; equivalents of 4-7 offsets, plus a pink tricam. I do sometimes wonder if I should trim this down, but I often seem to use up a whole crab of big or medium nuts, and frequently am glad for having two of 1-4.

Cammage: Purple C4 up to "Big Blue", with an extra green WC cam that sits between 0.75 and 1. (6 total)
Micro cams from 10mm (equiv of blue alien) up to grey alien (17 - 25mm roughly). (4 total)

14 draws, unless doing short pitches, with 6 of these being alpine draws.
Three 120cm slings with lockers, possibly a 240cm sling if climbing as a three.

It's a pretty big rack. I'd like to leave some of it behind (suggestions welcome) but it tends to cover almost all eventualities. If I'm climbing a bit easier I leave 2 or 3 microcams behind, and maybe some draws. I don't do anything different for limestone; I don't usually carry hexes because I'd rather take the cams.