UKH

Well somebody had to.....

Inshallah Factor (Free) (ED1) would take some beating.

Better than Lionheart (ED1) ?

Incidentally, how hard is Inshallah at E3? Well protected? What are the upper chimneys like - I hate chimneys? Going in a few weeks.

Not sure about the gear as I wasn't placing any but I really don't remember much that could really be described as a chimney higher up. Plenty of sustained climbing at a slightly lower grade - maybe E1 or so - in the upper pitches though.

If you soloed it you are a very brave man! I'm not sure soloing on Rum sandstone is something I would do.....

Le Ticket, le Carré, le Rond et la Lune (TD+ 6b)  Alpine cragging really, superb.

Inshallah Factor would be in my top 10. It's a solid E3 bearing in mind how far you are from help. I thought 5c not 6a. The crux pitch has a good blue #3 at the start of the difficulties and small gear close to you on the hardest moves. How much do you trust RPs and C3s in Rum sandstone? The top chimneys are VSish back-and-footing but mostly unprotected.

The Rabada-Navarro first and second pitches are both 6c so E3ish (with some fixed gear) and harder than the next route. Should be here and not in the E2 list. Great crag, classic line of least resistance, excellent rock, fabulous situations, and 20 minutes stroll from the hut.

The Comici-Dimai on the Cima Grande should be on either the E2 or E3 lists.

If routes like Another Day in Paradise get a pass then so should Spasspartout (6a) on Wendenstock? Bolted but doesn't feel like a sport route and certainly doesn't feel like 6a. Nine excellent pitches of immaculate rock on the best crag in Switzerland in a glorious environment. Far better than anything like it in the Dolomites,

Agree. Lionheart would get my vote. Every pitch individually would get 2 or 3 stars on Millstone.

West Ridge (ED1 6b) should be on the list. And I guess it would get an E3 (or perhaps only E2?). I recall it being dubbed one of the best granite routes in Europe. Haven't climbed it myself, but a few others have and can't stop stating how good it was.

Same thing with Vestveggen (n6+) in combo with Vesteggen (n6). But perhaps this is also only E2. And again, haven't climbed this, but a few of my friends have and have said it's good.

It seems that I like west ridges...

Fairhead: Salango, Jolly Roger

Gogarth; T Rex (oh hang on...)

I'm sure I was told it was E1-ish?

Yes, it is supposed to be fantastic, but I believe E2 - maybe it should be in that list.

It is interesting that Vestpillaren is so good that it gets really highly rated despite the rubbishy finish escaping into a muddy gully at the top. A finish up the superb right facing corner of the original finish (which can be gained from below pitch which escapes into the gully) would surely make it significantly better and an obvious magnificent candidate at E3 (unless it's harder than that).

It's striking that, whereas at E2 the mountain routes Shibboleth, Steeple and Torro along with Prophecy and Sula on sea cliffs more or less pick themselves, it is harder to pick out E3's. On sea cliffs this might be because the central part of Dun MIngulay offers so many choices, though Les Voyageurs (E3 5c) seemed exceptional to me. On the mountain crags the best E3's tend to be shorter. I would find it hard to choose between Sumo (E3), Temple of Doom (E3 6a), Uhuru (E3 6a), Enigma (E3 5c) and Black Spout Wall (E3 5c) and I thought November (E3 5c) held its own outside Scotland.

Lubyanka, surely? If we're allowing enchainements, Serth/Hand Traverse/Shrike would be hard to beat.

jcm

Agree with lots of the above, Sumo is excellent for sure and one of my favourite routes in Scotland, but the really memorable ones tend to be the long all day/multi day ones. If you want classic single pitch E3 you can't go wrong in Pembroke to be honest, that place is stacked with quality E3s!   West Ridge of Salbit certainly feels E3 with a big bag and not pulling on gear on the cruxes but apart from a few harder sections most of it is E1.  I thought Comici route about E3 (Again not pulling on gear on cruxes) and nice and sustained on a mind bogglingly steep wall.  Inshallah factor also brilliant, and has the long route feel, but lots of easier pitches and some a bit loose, though the first few and the crux bridging corner (which reassuringly gets wider gear as you go up!) are excellent. The chimneys at the top are a fitting finale too and even the descent has plenty of interest!  I thought this more varied climbing than Lionheart which is also a belter of a route.  Don't forget Cundalini/Luna Nascente in the Val Di Mello, this has amazing climbing all the way up and is probably just about E3 if you free the crux pitch?  Vestpillaren only E2 but also classic...

I think possibly beating all of the above might be Haystack on the Shelterstone, often overlooked for it's more famous neighbours Steeple and Needle but arguably better than both? Long route, plenty of interest all the way on generally excellent rock in a great position?  

West grat has 6b or so pitches, quite stiff for E1. The south ridge is 6a or so, so perhaps it’s that ridge you mention. 

Haystack is a brilliant route but not quite as good as Steeple (and probably only E2 anyway). For an E3 contender for this thread, do Steeple but switch the crux pitch for the 5c pitch on Spire - this certainly gives the best line, and arguably the best and most direct route on the buttress.

Yes, that was sort of my point. At E3 there are not the obvious candidates there are at E2.

Cougar would have been a good candidate between its upgrade and its falling down!

Mmm...… I've always thought that Haystack didn't quite have the character of Steeple, superb though it is.

The 5c pitch of Spire is phenomenal and, in my opinion, the best of all the pitches on the four classics on the Main Bastion (which is saying a lot!). I think your suggestion could be even further improved at E3 by taking the 5c alternative to the desperate crux 6a pitch of Spire rather than the slightly weak 5a pitch of Steeple before finishing up the Steeple corner. The guidebook describes this pitch as often climbed by mistake, but I understand it was actually the way was originally done and the mistake was by subsequent ascentionists. It is a very good pitch. This combination is surely the best line and about as good as E3 gets!

I remember that as just being a wee variation for c15m before rejoining the 5a pitch, but I guess it adds a bit more interest.

Ahh Salango, best route I've passed out on. 

Star Gate (E3 5c)

The Moon (E3 5c)

Both of these have guidebook entries as "Only the Best Route in The World!" or something along those lines, so must be contenders. They'd both make my top 10.