Best E1 in Europe(including North Africa)

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 Martin Haworth 04 Mar 2020

Following on from the recent E2 and E3 threads how about the best E1. I'll start the ball rolling with a few I've done, I'm looking at the whole experience of the route, so the climbing, location, approach, history...

La Demande (6a)

South Face Direct (Voie Madier) (TD+ 6a+)

East Face Route (Original Route) (E1 5b)

Contamine Route (TD 6a+)

Ventre a terre (TD+)

 dinodinosaur 04 Mar 2020
In reply to Martin Haworth:

Steger Direct (VI)

I thought this was excellent, not super long but great day out, and far more traddy with no bolts apart from on the first belay.

 kaiser 04 Mar 2020
12
In reply to kaiser:

A great route but there are better E1's in the pass such as:

Nexus (E1 5b)

Super Direct (E1 5b)

1
 TobyA 04 Mar 2020
In reply to Martin Haworth:

Sydpilaren (n6-)

It came up in the other thread but was deemed not E2. I've not really done that many E1s, but I suspect it's worth E1.

A bit more detail http://lightfromthenorth.blogspot.com/2013/09/stetinds-sydpilaren-south-pil...

 tjekel 04 Mar 2020
In reply to Martin Haworth:

Dachl North Face

Nordwand klassisch (VI+)

 Robert Durran 04 Mar 2020
In reply to Martin Haworth:

I think this is possibly the single most overrated route I have ever done. Basically crap, but just about worth a single star for the iconic summit and the nice VS pitch at the top. I've done much better E1's on both Am Buachaille and The Old Man Of Stoer - and the Old Man of Hoy doesn't even have the spice of  a swim to get to it!

2
 Kemics 04 Mar 2020
In reply to Martin Haworth:

Three Pebble Slab (HVS 5a)  

I dont think it really is the best... but I think Coronation Street (WW) (E1 5b) deserves an honourable mention. Some exciting positions, varied styles between pitches and decent setting.

2
 HeMa 05 Mar 2020
In reply to Martin Haworth:

Prismaster (n6-) is a stellar line, and well worth the E1 If climbed in one rope stretching 60m pitch. 

2
In reply to Martin Haworth:

Any thoughts on An Bealach Rúnda (E1 5b), I've not done it yet.

In reply to Robert Durran: I thought it was a decent route, not the best maybe.

The trip up there, the location, the adventure, made it memorable for me.

 ianstevens 05 Mar 2020
In reply to kaiser:

Not even the best E1 (HVS...) at Dinah Cromlech

 kevin stephens 05 Mar 2020
In reply to Martin Haworth:

> Any thoughts on An Bealach Rúnda (E1 5b), I've not done it yet.

A fun route. I came across a trio of well honed wall rats who were looking bemused at the chimneys, they accepted my offer to lead them up the initial pitches.  Fun and unusual but I’ve done many better E1s

 kevin stephens 05 Mar 2020
In reply to kaiser:

Should never have been upgraded from HVS

2
 kevin stephens 05 Mar 2020
In reply to Martin Haworth:

One that stood out for me in the UK is Astral Stroll (E1 5b)

 AlanLittle 05 Mar 2020
In reply to tjekel:

I find the idea of a VI+ in the Xeis being only E1 quite improbable

 kylos8048 05 Mar 2020
In reply to Martin Haworth:

Would be my choice. Amazing route. 

In reply to Martin Haworth:

I thought ABR was really good; I certainly haven’t done ‘many’ better E1s.

jcm

 malx 05 Mar 2020
In reply to kevin stephens:

I'd be interested to hear what some of these better E1s are. I thought An Bealach Rúnda was up there.

 kevin stephens 05 Mar 2020
In reply to malx:

it all comes down to personal preference, a lot of folk seem to have really enjoyed the chimney squirming, for me it detracted from the experience

 kylos8048 05 Mar 2020
In reply to malx:

An Bealach Rúnda has to be up there. The E3 route beside X-men is almost as good too. 

It's got everything. 3 Pitches with big comfortable belay ledges. Amazing scenery and position. 3 varied pitches. 

Also one worth mentioning. The Doffer E1 5b. One of the finest cleanest offwidth cracks in the UK/Ireland. 35 meters of stupendous pain. 

 kevin stephens 05 Mar 2020
In reply to kylos8048:

X-Men was very good , but Fairhead is bursting with 3 star E3s

Deadeye 05 Mar 2020
In reply to dinodinosaur:

> I thought this was excellent, not super long but great day out, and far more traddy with no bolts apart from on the first belay.

I'd go for a different Steger nearby:

Steger (VI-)

 planetmarshall 05 Mar 2020
In reply to Martin Haworth:

Not done that many but of those I've done probably North West Passage (E1 5b)

1
 David Myatt 05 Mar 2020
In reply to TobyA:

Thanks Toby, I enjoyed your article.  Hope to get to Lofoten in the next year or two and will give that one a shot. Top end for me, but worth a go with your added info!

Cheers, David

 tjekel 05 Mar 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

What would be your suggestion? This is one of the more sensible ones, only 13 pitches and very reasonable protection wher it matters. Might go at VI-/A0, as well. 

 danm 05 Mar 2020
In reply to Deadeye:

> I'd go for a different Steger nearby:

That certainly is up there for fun days out at the grade I thought. I'd also pitch in with the following:

Via Messner (VI-)

Visite Obligatoire (TD+)

In reply to Robert Durran:

> I think this is possibly the single most overrated route I have ever done. Basically crap, but just about worth a single star for the iconic summit and the nice VS pitch at the top. I've done much better E1's on both Am Buachaille and The Old Man Of Stoer - and the Old Man of Hoy doesn't even have the spice of  a swim to get to it!

... I'm inclined to agree... when we were there a few years ago the last entry in the visitors book in Rackwith Bothy was: "would anyone climb this pile of crap if it hadn't been on the telly"... perhaps a bit harsh...

... another vote for Astral Stroll... unforgettable and very, very exciting particularly if the sea is making itself known...!!!

 Robert Durran 05 Mar 2020
In reply to Richard Wheeldon:

> ... I'm inclined to agree... when we were there a few years ago the last entry in the visitors book in Rackwith Bothy was: "would anyone climb this pile of crap if it hadn't been on the telly"... perhaps a bit harsh...

I certainly doubt anyone would climb it if it were not on The Old Man of Hoy. Put the route on a regular sea cliff and it would probably be unclimbed.

 Robert Durran 05 Mar 2020
In reply to Martin Haworth:

It is interesting that on this thread as well as on the E2 ands E3 ones, nobody has mentioned any Morocco Anti-Atlas routes despite the area's popularity. Does this confirm my suspicions that, while it is a sunny and convenient climbing "holiday" destination with loads of nice climbing, it is rather lacking in truly brilliant lines? This was the impression I had from my one short visit many years ago before I discovered the wonders of Wadi Rum

Post edited at 19:15
1
 Hugh Cottam 05 Mar 2020
In reply to Robert Durran:

That pretty much sums up my limited sample of the Anti Atlas climbing Rob. It's not actually very nice rock. Brilliant place but the routes felt like a big version of a Leicestershire quarry.

1
 Robert Durran 05 Mar 2020
In reply to Hugh Cottam:

> That pretty much sums up my limited sample of the Anti Atlas climbing Rob. It's not actually very nice rock. Brilliant place but the routes felt like a big version of a Leicestershire quarry.

Thanks Hugh. I've been tentatively thinking of another visit, but fear it might be a bit uninspiring compared with other places I've been.

In reply to Hugh Cottam:

> That pretty much sums up my limited sample of the Anti Atlas climbing Rob. It's not actually very nice rock. Brilliant place but the routes felt like a big version of a Leicestershire quarry.

Really?  That's not been my experience.  I've been a couple of times.  I don't remember the names of the routes but they were all strong lines on mainly good rock and came in at about E1/E2.

Al

1
 AlanLittle 05 Mar 2020
In reply to tjekel:

Haven't done that particular route. Any maybe I just wasn't going well on my one visit, but I definitely felt Gesäuse grades were ridiculously sandbagged, consistently one to two grades harder than the Kaisergebirge. And Kaiser grades aren't soft. Great place though, would definitely like to get back there some time.

In reply to Robert Durran:

I did some good routes on a trip to Morocco but none live on in my memory, so you could be right.

In reply to Robert Durran:

> I certainly doubt anyone would climb it if it were not on The Old Man of Hoy. Put the route on a regular sea cliff and it would probably be unclimbed.

I understand your point of view but I’m going to disagree with on this one. It’s not as bad as you make out, it is iconic, visually dramatic, generally involves an adventure to travel to, and...it’s a hard rock tick.

In reply to Sam Beaton:

Looks like a good route.

In reply to planetmarshall:

An excellent route.

In reply to danm:

Visite Obligatoire (TD+) Is a brilliant route, one of the best I’ve done. Worth its place on any E1 list.

 Pefa 06 Mar 2020
In reply to Martin Haworth:

Big Top on Aonach Dubh is awesome. 

 Michael Hood 06 Mar 2020
In reply to Hugh Cottam:

> but the routes felt like a big version of a Leicestershire quarry.

[ironic] And what's wrong with that?

If you have to ask then you don't really get it 😁

In reply to Martin Haworth:

While it's not the 'best' Central Buttress (E1 5b) on Scafell deserves an honourable mention. It was my first mountain trad route and I've some great memories. 

Post edited at 10:12
 Tim Sparrow 06 Mar 2020

The Golden Compass (E1 5b)In reply to Robert Durran:

I thought the Golden Compass at Adrar Umilil was particularly fine.

1
 rachelB 06 Mar 2020
In reply to kevin stephens:

Personally I'd be a fan of an bealach runda too...you can certainly avoid the chimneys with some bold cornering!

 Nathan Adam 06 Mar 2020
In reply to Martin Haworth:

Minus 1 Direct was really superb for me, the atmosphere of the face and the views out west as well as finishing up NE Buttress to the summit makes for a 7 star day out. Descend Tower Ridge for the full alpine experience!

Has anyone ever done Marathon on Ben Nevis? Involves some descent but crosses a fair amount of impressive ground and must be one of the longest routes of its standard in the country (610m). 

Post edited at 18:10
 mike barnard 06 Mar 2020
In reply to Nathan Adam:

> Has anyone ever done Marathon on Ben Nevis? Involves some descent but crosses a fair amount of impressive ground and must be one of the longest routes of its standard in the country (610m). 

Give it a go and let me know how you get on...

 Nathan Adam 06 Mar 2020
In reply to mike barnard:

Has been added to the list, to be attempted on a very long and warm summer day after several days of dry weather!

 Kevster 06 Mar 2020
In reply to Martin Haworth:

Salbit south?

It goes some places....

Deadeye 06 Mar 2020
In reply to Kevster:

> Salbit south?

> It goes some places....


Great route.  Nowhere near E1 though

 tjekel 07 Mar 2020
In reply to AlanLittle:

I thought this one was not sandbagged, it's a 1930ies classic and deemed a standard for the grade... 

 Alex@home 07 Mar 2020
In reply to Martin Haworth:

Best E1 I've ever done. First pitch has the most bonkers positions imaginable - chimneying between the crag and a detached pillar. Second pitch is brilliant in a more conventional way and was greatly mproved by it being slightly damp for the unprotected final few metres up the slab.

 Alex@home 07 Mar 2020
In reply to Michael Hood:

Oh come on. Who wouldn't want to climb something like this? 😁

Third Degree (E3 5b)

1
 Kevster 07 Mar 2020
In reply to Deadeye:

The way I climbed it, was about e1 imo. 

 Kevster 07 Mar 2020
In reply to Deadeye:

But, then the walk on and off to the hut was probably more arduous. Especially the walk off

Deadeye 08 Mar 2020
In reply to Kevster:

> The way I climbed it, was about e1 imo. 

Really? There's only one pitch of ?V I think? That felt wildly exposed... But there are bolts and the climbing is VS.

Having said that, the UIAA grades seem to map fairly randomly!

 C Witter 11 Mar 2020
In reply to Sam Beaton:

I couldn't say whether it's up there amongst the best in Europe, but I did this route yesterday and it's absolutely brilliant. The first three pitches are great and topend HVS; the fourth is challenging route finding and not easy; the crux pitch is an astounding mix of delicacy and brutality. The continuation pitches are a great victory romp up a sharp ridge. 

The crag is very beautiful, with enormous orange walls full of martins, peregrines and bats, whilst the screes are populated  with chamois. The views are all the way across the plain to the sea, and at night the setting sun turns the high altitude clouds iridescent pink, whilst the sea fades purple and small puffs of white cloud migrate from west to east on the breeze like soft buffalo.

Absolutely knackered today!

 Mr. Lee 11 Mar 2020
In reply to Robert Durran:

> Does this confirm my suspicions that, while it is a sunny and convenient climbing "holiday" destination with loads of nice climbing, it is rather lacking in truly brilliant lines?

I thought Titan's Chimney (E1 5b) was an outrageous and stunning route for the grade. A peapod on the first pitch, not unlike the one at Curbar, followed by a big corner, then moving into a hanging chimney similar to Inner Space. I remember doing some gardening on the route, so I don't think this one gets enough attention, maybe because the guidebook descriptions suggests a bit too much adventure than some people might want.

 Mr. Lee 11 Mar 2020
In reply to Martin Haworth:

As single pitch goes, Villskudd (n6-) is hard to beat I think.

 jon 11 Mar 2020
In reply to C Witter:

> whilst the screes are populated  with chamois. 

Chamois...?

In reply to Martin Haworth:

Voie Madier is a great route but it doesn’t really feel E1 (except perhaps to the Czech guys we met on it who’d been expecting a clip-up).

In reply to The Pulsing Motorik of Neu!: I found it to be mostly VS, but the the fissure Madier pitch felt E1 to me, the French guidebooks give this pitch 6b. A lot of teams avoid this pitch and do one of the other cracks such as the stoeffer instead.

 C Witter 11 Mar 2020
In reply to jon:

> Chamois...?

...?

In reply to jon:

> Chamois...?

They're entitled to a winter sun trip as well.

 TobyA 11 Mar 2020
 jon 11 Mar 2020
In reply to C Witter:

Just expressing surprise at a population of chamois there.

In reply to Martin Haworth:

The guy doing the cracks in front of us had only one hand and a marigold glove over his stump.

In reply to The Pulsing Motorik of Neu!:

> The guy doing the cracks in front of us had only one hand and a marigold glove over his stump.

A marigold  glove... Well that's just cheating!

 Robin Mazinke 11 Mar 2020
In reply to Mr. Lee:

Thoroughly agree re Titan's Chimney, a superb varied route, don't remember it being too dirty when we did it in 2014 - unlike Just the Tonic on Amelu Main Wall, which was a good route - once we'd both found the route and excavated the fields of moss!  Mind you I'm one of those who agrees that An Bealach Runda is a great route.

 C Witter 12 Mar 2020
In reply to jon:

Ah, I see! Well, to be fair, I'm guessing: they were a deer/goat type species with short horns; they looked a bit like the camosci I've seen in Italy and very like the photos of chamois on google, but I couldn't say for sure which sub-species they were. We saw some on the way up, but they still shocked us on the way down as we could only see rows of glowing eyes following us in the dark and it took a while for this monstrous vision to resolve into a 'chamois' and her kid, spooked by our headtorches.

Post edited at 06:57
 pete johnson 12 Mar 2020
In reply to Robert Durran:

> It is interesting that on this thread as well as on the E2 ands E3 ones, nobody has mentioned any Morocco Anti-Atlas routes despite the area's popularity. Does this confirm my suspicions that, while it is a sunny and convenient climbing "holiday" destination with loads of nice climbing, it is rather lacking in truly brilliant lines? This was the impression I had from my one short visit many years ago before I discovered the wonders of Wadi Rum

Tosh! You obviously don't know the area at all well. 

 Robert Durran 13 Mar 2020
In reply to pete johnson:

> Tosh! You obviously don't know the area at all well. 

No, I don't, which is why I asked the question!

I had one brief visit in 2003 before a guidebook was published and only had a couple of days climbing (a pleasant enough HVS which came highly rated and a pretty good long new E2). The rock and crags just didn't really inspire me (and the endless hassle form vendors made it a much less attractive place to visit than the other N. African or Middle Eastern countries I have climbed in). I know another well travelled climber who had similar feelings about the area. As I said, I went to Wadi Rum for the first time the same year and fell in love with the place and have now been there seven times. I just thought it telling that four Rum routes had featured in these threads while none had from Morocco (though a couple have come up since my post). 

Since I have a possibility of another trip to Morocco, I thought I'd seek peoples' opinions - I prefer truly great lines to go for rather than just lots of good cragging. It seems that two on here got similar impressions to me whereas four have got a different opinion.


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