bachar yerian route

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 paul mitchell 21 Jan 2019

John Bachar did this climb on sight in the 1980's

youtube.com/watch?v=3YRogD22LuE&

trad and rad.

https://rockandice.com/people/john-bachar-and-the-bachar-yerian-first-ascen...

Post edited at 21:53
 ashtond6 22 Jan 2019
In reply to paul mitchell:

He hung on skyhooks to bolt it, hardly onsight

20
 GDes 22 Jan 2019
In reply to ashtond6:

Haha. Valid point. He didn't onsight it, but having done that route, I can vouch for the ridiculous balls that must've been required to quest up that sheet of rock hanging on sky hooks to drill bolts. The distance he went between bolts is also more than a bit daring. The guy was on a different level. 

 Bob Kemp 22 Jan 2019
In reply to ashtond6:

That may be true but this was still extraordinary. Here’s Bachar’s account:

http://www.alpinist.com/doc/ALP26/first-ascent-bachar-yerian

 ashtond6 22 Jan 2019
In reply to paul mitchell:

So many dislikes, purely for a fact check

I didn't say anything against the route, it's on my list.

5
 JLS 22 Jan 2019
In reply to ashtond6:

>"So many dislikes, purely for a fact check"

Santa Claus doesn't exist but you shouldn't go around telling six year olds that.

Removed User 22 Jan 2019
In reply to paul mitchell:

What's George Ullrich up to these days, he nearly did the B-Y with no bolts but clipped one at the very top of the 3rd pitch. I assume he didn't tape the bolts up mind.

 Bob Kemp 22 Jan 2019
In reply to ashtond6:

I guess “... hardly onsight” is the problem. You used a rhetorical device that implies a bit of disdain, possibly by accident. If you just made a purely factual statement there probably wouldn’t have been the dislikes. (I didn’t dislike btw...) But it’s no big deal really. 

 GDes 22 Jan 2019
In reply to Removed User:

I'd say that's VERY different to doing with no bolts there just in case. As he proved! 

Removed User 22 Jan 2019
In reply to GDes:

Still very big balls required with 30 ft run outs between bolts - It's only a bailout bolt if you can reach it!

OP paul mitchell 22 Jan 2019
In reply to paul mitchell:

Thanks for that link, Bob.

Bachar took a fifty footer.Some poetic images from him in the article.

OP paul mitchell 22 Jan 2019
In reply to paul mitchell:

youtube.com/watch?v=TBRviO-If9k&

here is a ''modern'' slab climb,with just a few more bolts...

 

 

Post edited at 20:00
OP paul mitchell 22 Jan 2019
In reply to paul mitchell:

youtube.com/watch?v=PnsEjtWetU0&

Here we have Kauk the Younger showing us  modern American trad.

 rgold 23 Jan 2019
In reply to ashtond6:

> He hung on skyhooks to bolt it, hardly onsight


True enough, and Bachar describes everything he did in the Alpinist article.  Perhaps we lack the appropriate terminology---what Bachar did was a ground-up ascent.  No pre-inspection, so no idea where he could get the next hook placement, no idea where the hard moves were and how to do them, and no idea where to go.  Should we call it a serial onsight?  A remarkable style that very few have chosen to emulate.

 GDes 23 Jan 2019
In reply to Removed User:

Yes but no different an experience to somebody intending to clip the bolts


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