Arco - Guidebook and Best Areas (mid grade)

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 Matt Smith 19 Feb 2020

Hi all,

Me and my wife are heading out to Lake Garda in late May for a wedding and will have a couple of days spare for climbing around Arco.

We climb in the low to mid grades (6b+) max really and wondered if there are any crags we shouldn't miss out on (have heard it can be very polished. If there is an awesome multi pitch nearby more is the better.

Also struggling to find the most up to date guidebook for a decent price, anyone selling or could point me in the direction (send me ) of some topos?

Any advice welcomed.

Cheers 

Matt

 

 Toerag 19 Feb 2020
In reply to Matt Smith:

If you like slabs there's a multipitch one at Corno di Bo on the east of the lake which is in the shade in the mornings. We also climbed at a couple of other places near Torbole (where we stayed) which were polished, but not polished black like some of the pics in the guides.

OP Matt Smith 19 Feb 2020
In reply to Toerag:

Thanks for the info, it even has a topo in the photo section!

 Rich2002 20 Feb 2020
In reply to Matt Smith:

The closer to Arco you are the more polished the routes get and when I say polished i mean slick... check out the UKC guide to the area which is a few years old. Anything around 30 mins drive out gets a lot better and was great fun. It has been a while since I have been out there but if you look on the climb europe website it suggests what guides are about. 

If you have time watch the Base jumpers early morning hucking themselves off Mt Brento, (the big orange 3000Ft cliff on your left just north of the village Dro) . Early morning or late afternoon. Mid day winds are usually to strong for jumping. 

 HeMa 20 Feb 2020
In reply to Matt Smith:

Moonbears (~6a 3 pitch) on Piccolo Dain was nice and not too polished (unlike the near by Amazzonia) a few years back. You can also continue with another line even higher (5c I recall, 4 pitches or something).

OP Matt Smith 22 Feb 2020
In reply to Rich2002:

Watching the base jumpers sounds great! I'll bear that in mind thanks. Cheers for the advice.

OP Matt Smith 22 Feb 2020
In reply to HeMa:

Have looked that area up and it looks like a winner! Cheers

 JohnBson 22 Feb 2020
In reply to Matt Smith:

Arco Plasir

Good guidebook, reliable topos. No English but not really needed. 

 dominikk 23 Feb 2020
In reply to Matt Smith:

Regina del Lago is a nice crag with easier routes  around 5b to 6c. The older middle sector is quite polished but the first two (?) are quite okay. Nice slabby routes with Arco style protection. I think you don't even need a topo, since the grades are written at the start of the routes. And you can enjoy a nice view!

You basically drive up the valley direction lake ledro but stop after a long tunnel. Approach can be a bit confusing though.

 +1 for the multipitch at corno di bo. Tony il telefonista is great fun for being an easy route and you can have a swim afterwards.

Post edited at 08:02
 alpinist63 23 Feb 2020
In reply to Matt Smith:

The San Paolo crag has many excellent multipitch climbs ( 5c to 6b+ mostly) which are about 150m high and not as polished as most other areas. It's situated about 2 km upvalley from the arco campground. the VerticalLife app is very useful as you get all the sport and multipitch topos. 


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