Alcasan @ Stoney

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The start of this route (Aurora P1) sounds like a chossy bag of rubbish. Is it reasonable to start Alcasan by using the VDiff traverse of Tiger Trot to get from the end of Windy Ledge to the start of the second pitch of Aurora?

 Luke90 02 Jul 2019
In reply to Frank the Husky:

I don't know, but pitch 1 of Aurora isn't all that bad.

In reply to Luke90:

Pitch 1 not chossy at all, just not well protected (or certainly wasn't 50 years ago when I did it ) Probably a bit better now, but maybe not much.

1
 Derek Furze 02 Jul 2019
In reply to Frank the Husky:

Perfectly reasonable to do as you suggest.  Or follow the path up alongside Aurora to reach the belay at the bottom of pitch two, which is less faff.

 Michael Hood 02 Jul 2019
In reply to Frank the Husky:

It's not like you're missing out the crux nor even a hard pitch, and it's not an independent pitch (i.e. just on Alcasan), so unless someone is being very picky you'll still have done the route.

Also, I've always thought that Tigertrot is quality for its grade

Removed User 02 Jul 2019
In reply to Frank the Husky:

Suck it up and get on it. PI on Aurora is slightly necky, combined with enough choss to make it memorable (at least for me as a HVS climber a decade ago.

 Graeme Hammond 02 Jul 2019
In reply to Frank the Husky:

Don't bother with Aurora pitch 1 it is a bit loose crap climbing it adds nothing to the route. I expect it is probably getting worse too as more people dont do it and the rock weathers.   (Rock and momories change in 50 years!) Just walk up to the right of windy ledge to start on the ledge no need to do Tigar Trot, or go through the tunnel from windy ledge (first right inside the cave from memory)

That said if you are doing Alcasan bit bold and loose starting pitch isn't going to be that difficult.

Post edited at 10:49
 roger whetton 02 Jul 2019
In reply to Frank the Husky:

Pitch 1 is fine Martin - enjoy! Though having done it you could scramble off and do Tiger Trot as well if you really wanted....

 Michael Hood 02 Jul 2019
In reply to roger whetton:

Tigertrot plus back through the cave is a nice round trip.

No torches allowed

 Alex@home 02 Jul 2019
In reply to Frank the Husky:

P1 is fine. It's not great but it's easy enough and safe enough now that the ivy has been removed to reveal the peg half way up. Guess it just comes down to whether your conscience will let you think you've done the route or not 😁

In reply to Frank the Husky:

I think if you search deep within your self you know the answer. 

Your welcome  

In reply to roger whetton:

Thank you for all the helpful and very manly replies on this thread. Having just returned alive from the route, I can confirm that Tiger Trot is indeed enjoyable - perhaps the most enjoyable VDiff on Peak limestone, and a fine way to start Alcasan.

As the very sensible Mr Hammond pointed out, P1 of Aurora is indeed rubbish and adds nothing to the route so is best avoided.

Thanks again to everyone.


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