Advice please - Easy Sea Cliff climbs

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 rola 21 Sep 2020

Are there any 'Easy' ( Read Diff, V Diff ) multi-pitch climbs suitable for first sea cliff climbs please ?

We are based in West Yorkshire, so the South Coast is too far away, ideally Wales or nearer.

Thanks in advance.

 PaulJepson 21 Sep 2020
In reply to rola:

East Ridge (VD 3c) is a nice, escapable multi-pitch.

Saddle Head also has some nice easy climbs (I think a couple can be split into 2 pitches if desired)

Can't think of many beginner-friendly sea cliffs, especially multi-pitch. Gower is probably the friendliest place for beginners I've been, outside of Cornwall anyway. 

 David Lanceley 21 Sep 2020
In reply to rola:

> Are there any 'Easy' ( Read Diff, V Diff ) multi-pitch climbs suitable for first sea cliff climbs please ?

> We are based in West Yorkshire, so the South Coast is too far away, ideally Wales or nearer.

> Thanks in advance.

Symphony Crack (VD)

 LakesWinter 21 Sep 2020
In reply to rola:

Dorset is about 2 hours closer to yorkshire than pembroke. Fallen Slab Arête (3a)

Not multipitch but very good and the right grade.

I thoughtHelix (D) was excellent too. And there' Cattle Troughs too - not been there but it looks like some good easy options

5
 flaneur 21 Sep 2020
In reply to rola:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/tor_bay_and_great_tor-730/east_rid...

3-4 short pitches, easy scramble to the base, ideal other than being a fair way from West Yorkshire 

 3 Names 21 Sep 2020
In reply to rola:

I think the Gower, is perfect for that kind of low grade, low pressure sea cliff experience.

 GrahamD 21 Sep 2020
In reply to 3 Names:

I'd struggle to think of a good multi pitch, or even long, V diff on the Gower.

 Trangia 21 Sep 2020
In reply to 3 Names:

> I think the Gower, is perfect for that kind of low grade, low pressure sea cliff experience.

When I was climbing at about the OPs grade I once took a holiday on the Gower and was very disappointed at the lack of friendly low grade routes. Admittedly that was many years ago before I gained the confidence to start leading harder routes, so things may have changed.

Can you point to some there which you would consider to be suitable for the OP's request?

To the OP, it's a pity that you can't travel to the south because Swanage has a good selection of lower grade climbs at places like Subluminal and Dancing Ledges lower tier. Even better are the Cornish sea cliffs where there are some magnificent lower grade multi pitch routes like Doorway, and Commando Ridge at Bosigran

 Jamie Wakeham 22 Sep 2020
In reply to Trangia:

>  I once took a holiday on the Gower and was very disappointed at the lack of friendly low grade routes. 

Three Cliffs is absolutely loaded with very friendly routes between mod and severe (and two brilliant and one bonkers VS too).  Pobbles is even gentler.  All single pitch, though, with the exception of the (mod?) traverse of the three Cliffs.  You could maybe make some of the longer routes to the left of the archway two pitch if you wanted.

There's also Boiler Slab (not quite as good as Three Cliffs) and the easier routes on Fall Bay (which feel a bit more serious).

I'd be ever so slightly wary of pointing a beginner at Tor Bay - the rock there is heavily polished and protection is a bit more awkward.

Really, though, for multipitch sea cliff vdiffs, you need to go to Bosigran!

Post edited at 08:24
 LucaC 22 Sep 2020
In reply to rola:

Symphony Crack (VD) Is what springs to mind for North Wales. Not multipitch though... there's a distinct lack of easy sea cliff multipitch. There are other easy routes in the book for Black Zawn and Port Sain at Rhoscolyn, but I've not done them so couldn't say if they are beginner friendly or just easy! 

 Lankyman 22 Sep 2020
In reply to rola:

You could try Jack Scout Crag

Only a seacliff at high tide and mostly single pitch but it's a lovely part of the world. Lots of other crags nearby.

OP rola 22 Sep 2020

Thanks for all the replies, it looks like we will need to improve or travel further but more likely a mixture of both !

 Greenbanks 22 Sep 2020
In reply to Lankyman:

> You could try [crag(1251,"Jack Scout Crag"<

Having done all of the routes there when I lived near Carnforth I'd say that's a very optimistic shout to be made in the same thread as Bosigran, Gower & Rhoscolyn are being mentioned! Virtually the only thing it'll have going for it is proximity to W. Yorks.

 3 Names 22 Sep 2020
In reply to GrahamD:

Yes your right I seem to have missed that bit in the original request.


New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...