UKH

Hello!

My better half has personal business in Glasgow for 2 days in August which made us (or me, depending who you're asking) wonder if we should spend this year's climbing holidays in Scotland.
Since we don't know much about climbing in the UK (we've done nothing on grit) especially Scotland I was hoping for some input.

We both climb in the 7a-7b range (outdoor sport). The last years we spent most of August in switzerland climbing and mountaineering as well as some time in Cadarese to improve our, still weak, crack skills.
So we both have trad climbing experience (alpine climbing in the alps, Cadarese, the odd limestone trad route at hour home crags in southern Germany) but it's not like we're doing it every day. Both adventure loving however I've grown kind of weary of chossy unprotected death routes. Might be wisdom, probably I'm just getting old.

As of yet we haven't decided about driving all the way to Glasgow or travel by plane and rent a car. If we're driving all the way from home, spending some time in the peak district on our way north might be an option.

Basically  the questions are:
Where to go?
What to do?
Where to stay?

Are there recommended guidebooks which cover a wider area and are more of a compilation of climbs instead of complete guides to a certain area? I'm thinking of something comparable to the "Schweiz plaisir", "Schweiz extrem" guidebooks. There seem to be a great variety of guidebooks but none in the local shops here so it's difficult to check which one fits the bill.

Last but not least: I need you to tell me midges are not that bad, otherwise my girlfriend might opt out.

Thank you!

Wired Guides’ Scottish Rock Climbs showcases 1,760 of the very best trad and sport routes across Scotland, covering a wealth of climbing never before presented in a single volume…

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/books/scottish_rock_climbs_wired-2522

Midges don’t like windy weather so avoid sheltered crags during midge season. Always take a midge net in summer.

The gary latter guides are good. https://alpkit.com/products/scottish-rock-vol-1-south.

Mid may to perhaps early June is the best time to visit weather both in terms of weather and Midgies. 

The weather in the highlands is very variable and as has been pointed out you'll want to be on crags exposed to the wind by August as most years it is pretty bad for midges by then. Sea cliffs are typically much less of an issue. If its very sunny you will not have a problem in the sun.

Your best bet would be to pick a few destinations and stay flexible depending on the weather.

How long would you be staying for?

The midgies can be horificly bad in the peak too. Main thing is to stay in the breeze, and don't sit directly on the grass and Heather.

From Glasgow go north and up the west coast. Be flexible so you can change plans as per the weather. Take a tent. There's a fair few of good bolted crags up north west if it's not a day for higher hills. Go to reef, sheigra, ardnamurchan (not in that order) and anywher else where the weather looks good.

If you want a proper adventure climb a sea stack or two.https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/old_man_of_stoer-300/

(It's always sunny in the north west, but it's a big secret so don't tell anyone)

You'll need a vehicle, drive on the left!

 have a nice time. 

Am I right in thinking there’s much less of a midge problem near the east coast? Sadly, not so much climbing.

In August the midge make climbing in Scotland a real gamble. From experience locals can generally find somewhere to climb where midge levels are likely to be tolerable, based on forecast wind direction and strength and how sunny it is.

I personally wouldn't risk camping in August for fear of midge.

If there isn't enough wind to keep the midge down, would scrambling be an option? There are fine scrambling routes on the Glen Coe mountains, Skye and Ben Nevis if you enjoy a hike, which might be preferable to being eaten alive while belaying.

There's lots of Sport climbing on the Aberdeen sea cliffs. Fine if you love a sea view but it just doesn't come with the grand mountain scenery Scotland is know for.

Yep. Our first two family trips to Aviemore etc were an assured revelation.  So much less of a midge problem.

Still a problem, but nothing like as bad

If it’s raining in the west it’s often sunny in the east.

Visit the east coast for morning sun and afternoon shade, west coast for afternoon sun. 

A selection of the best Caithness, Rosehearty and Aberdeen area sea cliffs are covered in the new SMC/Wired guidebook.
 

Too avoid the worst of the midges go where it’s windiest. 
 

Roger I think you’d enjoy Latheronwheel  https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/latheronwheel-1630/

Edit: Those midges are found everywhere!

+1 for the Gary Latter guides, two volumes to cover the whole of Scotland. However the climbing gets better the further North and West you go, so if you decide to only buy one guide, I'd suggest Volume II.

If you are in Scotland for a limited time and want to get as much climbing as possible done in August then you have two main things to contend with: Rain and midges. Wind, cold and bright sunshine will all discourage midges (in order of decreasing effectiveness). Weather forecasts can be reliable for a few days during a period of high pressure but if it's a mixture of rain, cloud and sunny spells then they can be very hit-or-miss, best thing to do is look at the forecast each evening and make a plan for the next day and then take another quick look when you wake up. For the best chance of getting the most climbing done, be very flexible, being based somewhere like Spean Bridge or Inverness allows you to drive N, S, E or W to catch the best weather forecast or the crag most open to the wind. This approach does mean a lot more driving though, the other option is just to pick one area with the most quality crags nearby and cross fingers about the weather. Sea cliffs are generally a lot less midgy than inland crags. Mountain crags like Ben Nevis N face, Shelterstone and Creag an Dubh Loch can be cold enough to have limited midge issues when the lowland crags are bad, Ben Nevis being the best, I've climbed a few times on that face and I don't remember ever getting midged. It is cold though, even in August.

In terms of crags with well protected routes and solid rock, Almost anything on Lewisian Gneiss is good with loads to go at in the Outer Hebrides. Also short but very nice and solid routes at Reiff. Sheigra has great routes with good protection. Skye has great crags like Kilt Rock and Suidhe Biorach, all well protected and solid, Neist Point also has lots of well protected and solid routes if you stick to popular routes (look for ones with loads of ascents in the UKC logbooks), less popular routes at Neist, even when highly starred, can be more adventurous. Diabaig is great too, but a bit more sheltered and midge-prone.... Honestly there are just loads and loads of crags that are good quality, in general terms I would say the further North and West you go in Scotland, the better the climbing is when it comes to single-pitch crags.

The main mountain crags are:

Ben Nevis N face, 3hr approach, high, cold, N-facing, gets frost shattering in the winter so a bit of care required with the rock.

Creag and Dubh Loch, 3hr approach, great camping spot by loch underneath. N-facing.

Shelterstone, 3hr approach, N-facing, again great camping by a loch.

Carnmore, 5hr approach, S-facing, bothy to stay in at the bottom.

Cuillin, many crags, faces all directions, 1.5 hr approach to the closest and most popular crags, Glenbrittle campground where you start the walk in.

Etive Slabs. You don't want to go there, it's solid rock but the only well-protected route is Spartan Slab with all the others varying between a bit bold and alex honnold.

Don't get too put off by the midge comments. Generally if you're on a mountain crag and there's a breeze you'll be fine. It's more early morning and evening which can be an issue, especially if camping. Buy a midge net and just accept that some time might have to be spent in the tent/car rather than out in the still air.

And/or loads of repellent to plaster on at the first sign of them.

If it were possible, you may be better off with May and September for the midges. I have before now joined two pitches as one in order to get the climb done quicker, and to get off the crag as quickly as possible; in order to avoid the midges. In the process I have placed less gear, but been energised by the need to really get a move on.

I’m sure I would have done a few years back, but see “Ovver t’’ill”

The Peak? Why would you stop there when you could go to the Lake District?!

The question then becomes relevant for you:

What have you ever done on grit?   :-}

If time allows they could do both: With climbs in the peak, and the lake district, and even stop off at the lovely town of Dunkeld (or is it a city, since it has a cathedral?), for both sustenance(smoked salmon from there cannot be beaten, and the cafes are great), and climbing, before heading further west and north.

Agreed - the peak is overrated

There's a cracking severe there - Stepping Out (S 4b) Its also a lovely stretch of coastline just to visit.

Not much; far too much. Unless it's mid-winter, it's like ants on a dropped icecream.

regarding the midge: We live in Ballachulish and climb throughout the year and, yes, there can be times when the midge are obnoxious but two things mitigate...

Wherever you put 'smidge' on your skin, the midges won't bite

Once the volume of midges gets so much they're going up your nose, eyes and ears then just put a midge net on. 

Camping tactics are to cook and eat nowhere near your tent, otherwise the midge will gather and get in when you do...  

If you can adapt what your goal is based on the weather to combat the midges, you'll have a great time. 

My worst midging last year (if such a word exists) was on an after work hit on Mess of Pottage. Closely followed a few weeks later on Magic Crack and not learning my lesson - Mess of Pottage again.

Yip. Awesome when I was living in Sheffield having that on your doorstep but unless I'm down there visiting friends I probably wouldn't bother travelling.

(Smashes router, runs, hides, wishes he has a nuclear bunker.......)

Thank you all so much for your kind advice and shared experiences!
The mentioned guidebooks look great. I guess we'll be taking the car, it's the most flexible option. Great to here about the great climbing on Scotlands west coast, I always wanted to spend some time there.
Even though we use to sleep in our car it seems like taking a tent might be a good idea. Probably much easier than trying to keep midges out of the car.
 

Not ‘formally’ known as a Cathedral any longer.

veteye, sponsored, by, the, comma, ; )  

I've been badly midged at all height levels during august. Whilst what you are saying does have some truth in that the higher up you are the later in the season it tends to be a problem and ofc it is generally windier with height too, but being high in august certainly is no guarantee against the midges IMO. Sea cliffs do tend to be less of an issue in my experience.