In reply to Tom Gregory:
So, as expected on a forum, quite a bit of toing and froing on this thread.
Let me add my two cents to the original question;
Check out the climbers club "Lower Wye Valley" guidebook, and learn to read it. Once you get what it means by this rock or that tree, its super simple and hard to go wrong. e.g. Central Rib Route I (S 4a) "Approach from the cubic boulder, follow the path until you reach the wall, a few metres along to the right is a short scramble up to terrace. The start to this route is scratched on the rock." along the bottom of the crag (10-20m away from the wall), there's a flat path and, by an opening (sometimes referred to as the meadow), there's a boulder of roughly cubic shape and... you guessed it, a path to the rock face! A few metres is ~10m, not the enticing thing at 1-2m.
There is plenty to be done at the lower grades, I did exactly that the other day as moving together practice. The central rib routes are great with gear where you need it and not so much where you don't. Corner buttresses are much the same. There's also "the easy way down" which is just a load of big (0.5-1m) steps and could be fun to get up.
As for the polish... nothing major, big steps are shiny yet positive and the smaller holds still grippy.
I personally think this is one of the gems of the wye valley! Single and multi pitch at almost any grade with a nice setting.
PS check access notes on BMC if you want to get in via Woodcroft quarry (the best way in)