Why were the bolts taken out of Lazy Days at Shinning Cliff

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 EvelynDearlove 13 Jul 2021

I went for a walk into shinning cliff at the weekend and noticed the old bolts had been taken out of the classic E5 Lazy Days. I was hoping to get this done come grit season after a couple of top ropes last winter. I'm pretty disappointed as its made the prospect of a lead out of the question now. Surely some consultation would have been need to do this before hand ?

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 Philb1950 13 Jul 2021
In reply to EvelynDearlove:

It was E3 with bolts. No place for bolts on grit, although I’m sure there must be one or two rusting relics somewhere, from aid days.

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 ebdon 13 Jul 2021
In reply to EvelynDearlove:

I thought the bolts were old shitty caving bolts of death anyway? Wasnt the e5 grade for without the bolts? I don't have my guidebook to hand but I seem to remember theres quite a long description of the various grades. Shame to loose a bit of peak history but perhaps for the best.

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 Brown 13 Jul 2021
In reply to EvelynDearlove:

If you were going to try that route placing any reliance on those bolts you may be the reason someone thought them better gone.

I climbed it about a decade ago and they were very poor. They looked like tiny diameter spits and I thought that were probably hand drilled and very shallow (<20mm). I assumed it was a don't fall off route.

I was back again last month and saw it in its bolt free state. A number of the bolts appeared to have been unscrewed from the sleeves but at least one was sheared off. I'm assuming that it snapped during an attempt at unbolting.

I'd personally have left them as I like bad gear and historical oddities but I can see that others might think that some people need protecting from themselves.

 Andy Peak 1 13 Jul 2021
In reply to EvelynDearlove:

I was very disappointed that the relics had been removed, it made for a totally unique experience on grit at a amenable grade! What was the reason for removing? Surly not thin end of the wedge bull shit as they were truly ancient?  Quick get your selves to millstone and hammer all the old pegs and bolts flat before somebody clips them! 

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In reply to Andy Peak 1:

Maybe someone tried to hang a quickdraw on them and they sheared under the load.

 Brown 13 Jul 2021
In reply to Andy Peak 1:

Was it really an amenable grade?

Has anybody fallen off on it in recent years?

I'd be interested to hear if they had recently held falls.

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 gravy 13 Jul 2021
In reply to EvelynDearlove:

I suspect you've been saved from the possibility of serious injury, rejoice!

Those bolts were for the placebo effect.  Homoeopathic bolts make no meaningful contribution to safety and can actually make things worse.

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 UKC Forums 14 Jul 2021
In reply to Everyone:

We've just received a report that this post was not placed by the poster in question, but by someone else at their workplace. Ordinarily we would remove a thread of this nature, but given the genuine responses, many of which would have involved time and care to write, we have decided to place it on hold.


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