Where did you climb over the Bank Holiday?

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 deacondeacon 27 Aug 2019

The weather was absolutely gorgeous over most (all?) of the UK for a proper scorcher of a Bank Holiday so where did everyone go? Let's hear your stories?

Me?

Friday evening after work was a few routes at Curbar on a 'too hot for grit but so what' evening. Repeated avalanche wall and lhorla before climbing a no star vs so I didn't go home empty handed.

Saturday-- the beautiful Standing Stones in the Chew Valley. What a crag! And there isn't even a path to get there. Some of the best VS's on grit, and more 3 star E1s than any other gritstone crag apart from stanage! A bit spooky with the myra Hindley'Ian Brady history.

Sunday-crummockdale for a bit of easy limestone trad. Got to be one of the prettiest locations in the UK. Just lovely.

Monday-twistleton. Although short the rock quality is brilliant. Loved The Candle, really fun HVS.

Went to Higgar amongst that lot too, and repeated the rasp and watched the sunset. 

Happy Days  

 Baron Weasel 27 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Grey crags Buttermere. Crag to ourselves! Dexter wall was the highlight. Good craic too!

 TobyA 27 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

> Saturday-- the beautiful Standing Stones in the Chew Valley. What a crag! And there isn't even a path to get there.

Saturday I woke up between Laddow Rocks and Black Hill, so just over the rise from Standing Stones. I could have wandered over and said hello! I remember doing Fairy Nuff there in 2000, and thinking it was one of the best VSs I have done. Must go back and see if it still holds up.

I was seeing how much of the Pennine Way I could walk between Thursday evening (started walking from Edale at 10 pm) and get home Sunday. I made the 10.45 train from Hebden Bridge, which didn't seem too bad, but was chatting at the station with a chap who had run from Edale in a day what had taken me two days and a bit of evening to walk!

I fear lack of climbing partners who wanted to do a trip has led me to becoming a backpacker!

 LastBoyScout 27 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Took the kids climbing for the first time at Cow and Calf quarry, Ilkley - they really enjoyed it. 

 mrphilipoldham 27 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Escaped the sun and went to Earl Crag. Perfect conditions, even with the heat. 

 C Witter 27 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Went to Dow Crag with my partner on Saturday, up Giant's Crawl (Summer) (D). On public transport, and the walk in from Coniston village was a bit of a slog in the heat. Goats Water looked very inviting. I've never seen so many teams on a non-valley Lakeland crag! Most of all, I was glad that my partner enjoyed the route, as she rarely climbs.

Sunday - a trip to Neckband Crag with a friend. I'd never been and was immediately impressed by the crag - strong and intimidating lines up good rock, and with very welcome shade after the march up the Band. The only problem was the dampness and that half the crag has been subsumed by moss - though, it was nice to see butterflies and bees buzzing past. My friend led Gillette Direct (E2 5c) and Tracheotomy (E2 5c); I led Razor Crack (E1 5b) and Cravat (VS 4c). Every route was worthwhile - instant classics on any valley crag. I was buzzing off the E1.

Monday I slept in, then headed up lazily on my bike to  Windy Clough, for a clutch of f6B problems, which felt harder than usual in the humidity; though feeling tired probably also had something to do with it.

Work on Tuesday was a shock to the system...

Post edited at 23:22
 Bobling 28 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Just back from a two week holiday to family in Malaysia and the Bank Holiday found us visiting yet more relatives in the Peak District.  I'd thought I might have a chance to climb so had packed the bouldering mat and in a fit of optimism the trad rack too.  I was only expecting to have an hour's bouldering amidst the carnage of extended family and kids. Saturday pm I made it to Burbage South for a muck around on the Puck Boulder, kids in tow.  Then on Sunday I was pleasantly suprised to find myself heading to Stanage on a full day pass with my brother in law (who owns a harness and boots and gets dragged out from time to time by me, last climb together Symphony Crack at Rhoscolyn on a family holiday to Anglesey). 

The last time I'd climbed at Stanage had been ten years previously with him, when the world was young, and it was nice to be back.  Last time we were there I'd been puppy-dog enthusiastic, and I was now somewhat more jaded by a much more realistic idea of the risks of climbing, and by a feeling I'd 'climbed out' a lot of my local rock.  

The day started inauspiciously - we helped stretcher a fallen climber to the rescue chopper.  Sobering.  I almost turned for home then but we pressed on with a very traditional VDiff (it was supposed to be easy but wasn't, it was however fun!).  The lessons of ten years ago came to mind (rack cams at the front when climbing on grit) and I found myself enjoying the climbing as I have not done for a while, and all the while Stanage presented itself in all it's magnificence, miles of wonderful rock to discover, and something of the old joy came back to me.  Our last climb was April Crack and only when I logged it last night did I realise it was a Classic Rock tick, it was wonderful.  Great to fall in love with climbing again.  I just hope the poor chap who took a lob is OK.

Monday we went to Alton Towers.

 snoop6060 28 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Absolutely nothing! Haha, as soon as the temperature goes higher than 20 my motivation for climbing just evaporates. I did buy a new bouldering pad though and am thinking of getting back into a spot of bouldering at some point.

 C Witter 28 Aug 2019
In reply to Baron Weasel:

Dexter Wall is great, isn't it? I climbed it earlier this year, maybe April. Quite straightforward and enjoyable to a good rest, then up the crack - you start think to yourself: this is pretty steady after all. Then, suddenly, at the top of the crack, all the holds run out! "Watch me here!" You're teetering left... maybe coming off... somehow still on... and... a jug! Phew! All smiles on a great belay perch, with Buttermere reflecting the blue of the sky and plenty of air beneath your feet.

What route did you take up to Dexter Wall?

 Jon Stewart 28 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Only had Sunday off, but managed to get to somewhere relatively cool (until late afternoon anyway) and quiet... Simons Seat. Been wanting to do the classic highball I'll Bet She Does (E3 6a) for years, and it's awesome. Great spot, looking forward to going back in cooler conditions. 

 mauraman 28 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

On Saturday, having left at 5:00 a. m from essex, I Walked up to Levers water from the Walna  scar park, hoping that most climbed will head to Dow crag. Soloed the original route at Great How crag. I was the only person there so I returned on Sunday and I was all on my own again, couldn't believe it!

 Hat Dude 28 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

3 days climbing in West Penwith

Sennen for a day then Chair Ladder and finally Porthguarnon Cove

Really enjoyed Porthguarnon, I'd visited before and took the guidebook approach from Penberth, after a horrendous fight through thick undergrowth we were unable to sort out where the routes are and ended up not doing anything.

This time we had some local knowledge, abbed in from the top and did several really nice routes. The rock is very good though a little more traffic would be good to clean up the vegetation a bit on some routes.

 rif 28 Aug 2019

Made my second summer ascent of Tower Ridge on Ben Nevis, 55 years after first doing it, and really enjoyed it: great scrambling and positions, sunshine, and enough breeze to keep the midges off. We were on top by 11 a.m. but already there were hordes of tourists at the summit.

 springfall2008 28 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

I took my 13 year old daughter and her friend up Corner Buttress Route 2 (VD 4a), multi-pitching in the sunshine!

 Toccata 28 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Flatanger. Couple of days in the Hanshelleren cave, some trad new routing then 2 days developing a beautiful bouldering venue on an island.

Rigid Raider 28 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Up a ladder to do some maintenance on my house. Mrs RR gets worried when I climb ladders but I enjoy it. I've even installed a 20-tube solar collector on my roof, protected by a rope thrown over the roof and tied to the back of my Landy. 

 Exile 28 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Saturday - Fairfield Horseshoe with the family

Sunday - (Long) day trip to Gogarth with a friend for Quartz Icicle and Wen

Monday - A family cragging 2/3 of a day at Long Scar above Wrynose Pass before tea at the Stickle Barn

Tuesday - Couldn't leave it so had an early morning run up Wansfell before going into work 

Best continuous few days of the year!

 ian caton 28 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Saussois! 36 Centigrade.

Totally delightful. 

 Babika 28 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

The Teryn Bluffs. 

500m off the hordes of the Miner's Track and no one else at the crag. No one else in view either as its tucked away perfectly. 

Bit hot mind, as its south facing

 RX-78 28 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Climbed into my hammock! It was lovely under the shade of the tree.

 planetmarshall 28 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Pembroke, not exactly an unusual choice but MY GOD IT'S MILES FROM ANYWHERE.

Climbed Heart of Darkness/New Morning (E1 5b) and Riders on the Storm (HVS 5a). Having got my fill of horizontal climbing then ticked the tremendous The Arrow (E1 5b), wondering what all the fuss was about on protecting the lower section. Nuts, nuts everywhere.

 olddirtydoggy 28 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Tödi summit (summit)

Took a quick cheap flight over to Switzerland and hit the Glarus Alps to bag the big one there. Quite a low level start made the whole thing quick a long session.

 petemeads 28 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Got to Hope early and jogged around the Edale Skyline with my big lad, knocked 35 minutes off our previous 6 hours despite the temperature. Spent an hour at Grindleford drinking tea and wrestling with a bacon sandwich, set off to Burbage North and got an icecream and more drink then attempted Grazer (VS) and failed miserably, managed Lieback (HS) with a bit of effort then did Knights Move (HVS) as the midges started to arrive in numbers. Beer and pie in the Grouse, home late & knackered...

Inspired by a training log entry from April 1987 where my running mate Chip and I did a last long run (20.5 miles in 2h 32m) before the London marathon on a Sunday morning followed by 20 routes on Stanage in the afternoon - my diary does not mention how many routes but he assures me it was so. What a difference 32 years makes!

Monday was recovery, then 15 hilly miles at speed on the bikes, Tuesday 23 miles even faster. Rested properly today...

 rtinma 29 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Spent a cool morning climbing at shady Curbar on Bank Holiday Monday, exploring boulders along the edge. Enjoyed three classic climbs at a corner near to Kayak Slab, Curbar Corner, 5, Neat 5+, Little Stiffer 6a.

In reply to snoop6060:

Anything below twenty is cool. Low 20's is mildly warm, at most. If you eliminate climbing in temperatures above 20, you probably reduce the quantity of rock-climbing available to you world-wide by an order of magnitude. 

1
 Baron Weasel 30 Aug 2019
In reply to C Witter:

> Dexter Wall is great, isn't it? 

One of the best pitches I've done this year, it felt like a grit route in a mountain setting. 

> What route did you take up to Dexter wall?

Mitre buttress direct, two star MS. Really good as well!

 steveriley 30 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

First trip to RAC boulders in 35+ years of climbing. Followed by a swim in the Llyn to cool off. Required.

 Garethza 30 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

A classic rock ticking weekend spent in Glencoe sunshine

Sunday: Headed up to the East Face of Aonach Dubh to climb Curving Crack (S) and then Archer Ridge (S 4a) just above it. 

Monday: Headed to a very quiet Buachaille and went up North Face Route (S) which happened to have one other team (The only other team on the mountain it seems) on it too - what where the chances  

 Mike-W-99 30 Aug 2019
In reply to Garethza:

Same crags as you but different order.

We started on north face route on Saturday but diverted onto the excellent hiccup at the terrace. Assume that nf route improves at that point as it seemed a bit crap up to then.

Weeping wall on Monday as a quick hit before driving home.

 Garethza 30 Aug 2019
In reply to Mike-W-99:

Ah nice, we were tempted by Hiccup at the terrace but werent too sure about the crappy sounding second pitch.. how did it go? Yeah the NF route gets interesting from that traverse onwards.. the last pitch was fantastic on immaculate rock! 

 joem 30 Aug 2019
In reply to deacondeacon:

Surely Pembroke is the only correct answer to this? 

Had a great time at Triple Overhang, Crickmill Point, Crystal Slabs and a quick route at Travellan before the long drive back to Newcastle on Monday via the 7th circle of hell at a services on the M56 resulting from traffic chaos in the car park!!!

Can't get enough of Pembroke.

Cheers

Joe

 Mike-W-99 30 Aug 2019
In reply to Garethza:

Apart from being rather devoid of gear the 2nd pitch is fine. You’ve an excuse to go back there now.

 Michael Gordon 30 Aug 2019
In reply to Garethza:

Hiccup is a great route!


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