So, as the title says, what do you think is the best 6a in the Peak? Or the best one you've done? Or your favourite for whatever reason? At a push we can go to 6a+.
I expect Coral Seas (6a) might be a popular choice. I have done it but 6 years ago and I don't remember it that well. I was climbing well then and it went smoothly (although I fell off the The Seven Deadly Sins Direct (E1 5b) immediately after when I failed to find the correct line for the HVS version). Probably one of the 6as I've fought my way up this summer sticks in my head more. But I'm sure there are some great ones out there on crags I haven't even got to yet.
If only it didn't have the broken crumbly stuff at the start I think El Sergio would be my vote.
That's definitely on my hit list!
Flying Buttress Direct 😉
All shite. Dig out your rack.
Three pebble slab obviously 🙄
5+ surely? ;-)
Play the game gentlemen. My HVS hit list is long enough already. I am of course asking about sport routes.
I happily accept that a Peak District quarry is unlikely to reach the top of anyone's all time top ten crags list. I've been lucky enough to climb in Arctic Norway a reasonable amount. Most UK climbing pales in comparison. But it doesn't mean climbing here is pointless or not enjoyable. So, with all that said - can we go back to 6as in the Peak people have enjoyed? I'm looking for some inspiration for the weekend.
Done it. And really enjoyed it. Yeah it's another obvious contender.
Thanks Derek. I think that might be the one that thingymabob (writes articles for UKC, political philosopher, broke his ankle early this summer...) said was the best 6a in the Peak. I will definitely check it out.
Personally I thought Coral Seas overrated - contrived start, crumbly crux and a contrived finish. Better stuff in Portland, N Wales and Yorkshire at that grade - the peak has very little good easier sport.
> Another one in the not the best but definitely not shite category is Another Roadside Attraction (6a)
It is a nice climb that - seconded earlier in the summer when I had only wobbled up a couple of 6as onsight this year, now wish I had tried to onsight it! But I must go back and lead it now I've got some confidence at the grade. Colehill is a funny. Nothing wrong with the climbing at all, or no worse than any Peak quarry and better than some - but the actual position is laughably rubbish!
> I also thought this might be worth 2 stars, although a bit shortThe Big Take Out (6a)
Already on my wishlist! I managed one of the 6as and the 6a+ to it's right earlier this summer - a trip that made me think OK, I can get up 6as still and sort of opened the floodgates, meaning I've done quite a few since. But I think I need to go back to Intake to try the Big Take Out and El Sergio.
> asking which is the best 6a in the peak is a bit like asking who is the most competent cabinet member.
As much as I loathe her politics, I do sort of fancy Priti Patel, so that might explain my perverted and torrid love affair with Peak district quarries this summer. You know it's so wrong but it just feels so right. ;)
> 5+ surely? ;-)
I've just come back from a short trip to Portland with a friend who was keen to sample some of the best 6a routes on the island. there are some great climbs at that grade, including some that feel like real sea cliffs. I suspect that no Peak District 6a would come in the top 10 routes of its grade if it we're moved to Dorset.
I’d give a shout for coral seas
Wile E Coyote on Poised Block buttress on the upper tier of Harpur Hill. Hard end of the grade though. You can warm up on Running for Cover on the same buttress: one of the best 5+s in the Peak. There are plenty of pleasant 6as on the Long Wall there too.
Its a pretty thin list. You are better going to Yorkshire or the A55 crags. The Peaks is bereft of reasonable qulity 6a/6a+ pluses which are really good.
Some are Ok.
I must say though - in all honesty, there are so many well protected and brilliant E1's in the Peak that if I wanted a day at that intensity I'd definitely choose those.
I love sport climbing but at this level of intensity I think trad is where it's at. Once we kick into 6b/c I have far more to recommend.
I've just remembered I've done el Sergio and thought it was utter balls, not in a ho ho peak limestone is all balls kinda way in an this is actually proper crap kinda way, 2 star modern classic my arse! Sure the top is an interesting feature, but you have to climb through a total tottering pile of death choss to get there! I mean the rock quality at intake isn't the best but I thought this route took the piss.
Having done most of these I'd say I wouldn't bother getting out of bed for any of them. The top 1/2 of El Sergio is nice but the bottom half is exactly why low grade sports climbing in the Peak is shit distilled into 15m of concentrated crap choss so over all it translates to "pretty good but what I really remember is the choss" - the sort of "solid" stuff that makes you wonder if it is safer if you don't clip the bolts.
> I must say though - in all honesty, there are so many well protected and brilliant E1's in the Peak that if I wanted a day at that intensity I'd definitely choose those.
Actually I reckon that 6a is closer in climbing experience to HVS on grit - at least in terms if over all effort it takes me. I think my HVS on grit onsight hit rate is probably still 50/50 for successes, and the ones I've failed on wasn't because I was scared and backed off, but because I found a move desperate and fell off! I don't think I've led E1 on grit at all come to think of it, even 'back in the day'. I have onsighted a handful of E1s on other rock types, but not on grit - so even though I now live 10 minutes from some of the Eastern Edges and climb more on grit than anything else I still reckon it seems hard for the grade(s)!
You are being unhelpful Dr Garnett! But if you fancy a trip over N Wales again this autumn I'd be keen. I found some F6as in the slate quarries rather soft touches in the past!
I love a good tangent as much as the next 20 year UKC veteran! But I'm a middle aged, perma-tired school teacher with kids at home and a very lovely and pretty-relaxed-about-me-going-climbing partner - but even she has her limits. And I live 14 minutes from Stoney and 17 minutes from Horseshoe Quarry, and not 17 minutes from Yorkshire or North Walesian limestone! ;-)
It's not perfect in all respects but there are definitely much worse places to live as a climber, even if you are looking for 6a sport routes!
You are correct that the bottom of El Sergio is choss, maybe the first 2 or 3 bolts. The top 8 to 10 bolts are very good and well worth the effort. Maybe you are a glass half empty person!
I expect most of us would rather climb in Verdon or Gogarth or Glencoe... but the reality is sometimes time is short, or your fed up of grit or Chee dale etc and a bit of mileage on quarried limestone is better than indoors. It’s also good for your choss skill set if you aspire to Red Walls, Yellow Walls, Craig Doris...
I've done some good routes at Intake, and have no illusions what quarried peak lime entales but I have to very much agree with duchessofmalfi on this route, the bottom is awful and does rather spoil it. I actually thought it must have been recently affected by bad rock fall when I did it but turns out it's always like that!
Allthough perhaps I'm being argumentative as its nice to be arguing about climbing on here rather then one of the many harbingers of the coming apocalypse!
A list of these 'soft touches' would be greatly appreciated
Also I quite enjoyed 'Who Sat On My Satsuma?' at Masson lees - was a few years back and might have lost some holds since then.
Can I do a slight hijack and ask for the 6b/c recommendations - my preference is delicate/crimpy
> Also I quite enjoyed 'Who Sat On My Satsuma?' at Masson lees - was a few years back and might have lost some holds since then.
I did it last week and thought it was better than OK. Certainly done a lot worse.
See Me Coming (6c) has a great crimpy crux pulling on a protruding bit of crinoid,
Prawn Crackers (6c) allthough not delicate has a great crux sequence pulling on lovely crimps
On a similar vein are some of the 6bs and 6cs on the main wall at stoney west, very crimpy/cruxy followed by easier climbing
I'd honestly say it's better than any route i've ever done at Horsehoe...
More a, "glad I survived to get to the good bit" sort of person!
The whole quarry falls soundly into the "please replace the holds after use" category.
Well your post does have some merit. I have done the route twice this year( that’s what lockdown does to you!). First time I was a bit wary of the section to get to the first bolt, second visit the first bolt was on the floor in the big block that has fallen down. Best to start up the route to the right and traverse in.
I think it is great as well. I can see your point about it being better than anything at Horseshoe, although I did really enjoy Babe The Blue Axe (6a) at Horseshoe the other day - it gets no stars - but it's really well bolted so encourages you to try hard. It's some years since I did it but I remember the 6a on the left end of the Main Wall is also rather good.
That doesn't sound healthy! My first trip to Intake resulted in no climbing (except my pioneering a terrifying choss scramble to get up to the top) on my part but holding a massive whipper off one of the E3s on the main wall that left me trembling with adrenline - so hate to think what it did to Roger who took the fall and was physically not hurt at all! So I treat the place with respect, but the stuff on Take Away Wall for example is all pretty stable and normal from what I can see.
> A list of these 'soft touches' would be greatly appreciated
It's a long time ago so I'd need to check but I've found in the past the slate seems to quite suite me and despite having not climbed on it much I've onsighted E1 on slate (it was HVS when I did it but I'm having the tick! ) and the sport routes I've done on it all felt easy for their grades. So maybe I should have said they suit my style rather than them being soft touches.
Pale rider on the arete?
Once at the mid height belay of surplumb, the traverse of plumb buttress is about 6a, either lower off the last anchors, or reverse for gear. Goes places, climbing is fun. Access isn't so sporting at 6a, but I bet it could be done.
I've seconded that one, but it was Pale Rider I onsighted and thought was quite good.
Grades on grit always were and will be perhaps harder than other rock types except N.E. Sandstone. Having said that I can boulder harder on grit than limestone. Maybe it’s that limestone requires raw power and grit technique.
My last comment on this Toby. I have taken to going up to Yorkshire for sport. I think the climbing on Yorkshire sport is (usually) better and the crags are often significantly nicer. If I try to be balanced, some of the routes are scruffy and on poor rock (Giggleswick North in places), but the views are great and in amongst the not so good are some really decent climbs - September Flake (HVS 5a) (now 6a and extended) or Debbie Direct (6a+)for example. However, I appreciate it is outside of your original post.
Interestingly I met a team from Leeds at Harpur Hill back in the summer, they said it took them as long from Leeds to get to the Yorkshire Dales sport as it did to Harpur and there was a better spread of grade for them at HH. I did have a quick visit to Castleberg Crag a year ago. A fun place to climb, but I don't remember the routes I did there being to special. I would like to try some of the venues up in Dales though sometime - it is a long-ish drive though - a couple of hours to Settle for me, and then however more beyond that to your crag of choice - that's compared to 15-20 minutes for the various holes in the ground just west of Stoney for me.
Anyway, for Peak based 6a climbers wanting to get a super-soft 6b tick, after the weekend I can thoroughly recommend Psyched for the Stoke (6b) in Hidden Quarry. It doesn't get any stars but I thought it was perfectly nice climbing and has really friendly bolting. My first ever non-slab onsight 6b! Get on it before it gets down-graded!
el Sergio is well worth it apart from the scruffy start and at almost 30m too.
: Coral Seas has been ruined by being polished due to it being made a ‘top 50...Supernatural is better?
I think Supernatural was better until part of it fell down. Maybe if the loose section can be cleaned up safely it will go back above Coral Seas.
Agree about El Sergio. Did it yesterday (starting from the 6b to the right) and thought it was very good after the first 4 bolts.
And to whoever was asking about good 6bs I'd recommend A Sharp Intake of Breath and Plum Tuckered Out. They were both very good
> I think Supernatural was better until part of it fell down.
Is that the route in the terrifying photo of someone falling off with bits of the route come down with him?
edit: just checked - yes it is! https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=347202 eeek!
I keep reading this thread as 'the best A6 in the peak' which is either a very stiff aid route or the road.
That's the one! There's a lot less rock now in the niche to his right. It is avoidable at the same grade but the thought of what would happen if more of it came out and hit my rope really put me off. Shane because I did several years ago and really enjoyed it.
That reminds me of 2 other really good 6bs in that sector - Calci Mauve and The Omen
Why not go and clean it then?
> Anyway, for Peak based 6a climbers wanting to get a super-soft 6b tick, after the weekend I can thoroughly recommend Psyched for the Stoke (6b) in Hidden Quarry. It doesn't get any stars but I thought it was perfectly nice climbing and has really friendly bolting. My first ever non-slab onsight 6b! Get on it before it gets down-graded!
But one of the best 6bs in the Peak is just a little to left - Spirit of Ecstacy. You should def do that if you have done Psyched... Slightly reachy start but brill climbing.
Normally I'm all for cleaning routes but in this case I was worried I'd pull the block with the first bolt out (sounds like this has now gone anyway). I think my point with this one isn't that its mega lose at the bottom (I appreciate Intake isnt the most stable) it's that it had a few stars which I'm not sure were deserved. Perhaps I should have gone less direct and traversed in as others have done for a better time.
I'm more ashamed of not cleaning nice n sleazy at Staden (full of grass) on a visit to do this and some neighbouring routes earlier this year for which I had no excuse other then it looked hard and scary and I couldn't be bothered to get an ab on it for which I am sorry.
We had the pleasure of climbing at the weekend next to Lucy Creamer (who is one of my climbing heroes!) and Katherine Schirrmacher, and I think it was Katherine who said she thought Spirit of Ecstasy was the best 6b in the Peak too. My excuse was my friends had already done it by the time I joined them, and after I surprised myself doing Psyched... when it was my turn to pick another route to do (my friends were working Fuji) we went down to the lower tier and I quickly onsighted 3 6as down there.
At the start of the summer it really felt doing 6as regularly again was ambitious so 6b felt miles away! The only 6bs I've done onsight before were slabby (one in Moss Rake, one in Finland and I think one in France but that one is 25 years ago! ) Now I am onsighting 6a consistently, and a number of 6a+s too, obviously I need to try harder and try some 6bs but it still feels quite a mental hurdle to get over. But Spirit of Ecstasy is now on my wishlist so I'll have to give it a good go sometime soon. I mean it's only sport climbing so how scared can I end up! (Answer: "very" normally!)
One of the best 6bs in Horseshoe (on the upper tier) is Two Flat Whites.
> an overrated easy HVS, if this is E1 Sloth must be E2, but not sure where this is ‘6a’
> An over
Stick those beans back in the fridge Gazza, we all know those filthy french grades will never touch grit 😘
How about if I say VI- 😜
I have no problem with many things but it frustrates me that people say ‘ it needs cleaning’ or ‘it needs an extra bolt, and like magic they expect it to happen. Objective or other criticisms are easy but people need to be prepared to help out, physically, or otherwise..like monetarily, and respect the fact that people, like me, do their best to get things right from the start, or like I have in a number of cases, like lots of routes at Harpur Hill and many other Crags over the past few years do even more work and add extra gear and belays ...sermon I’ve 😂😂
I'd help out. I don't have loads of time as I am still working, but could share the load with the practical work. I have contributed financially reasonably often, but don't have experience of placing bolts or cleaning - other than the cleaning I have undertaken to get up something. In practical terms, I think the most obvious thing to do would be to work alongside you one day as a way of picking it up. Happy to do that for a day a month over Oct - March if it helps. I'm Peak based. Let me know if you want to set something up
Sounds like a plan.
> You are being unhelpful Dr Garnett! But if you fancy a trip over N Wales again this autumn I'd be keen. I found some F6as in the slate quarries rather soft touches in the past!
OK, I'm coming round to the idea that I need some bolted climbing to get me back to reasonable fitness this winter, given how far I live from a decent leading wall (bouldering's all very well but it's just not the same as leading).
I'm pretty sure I've done more English 6a pitches than f6a's, so it's probably something I should work on.
Feel free to message on here or firstname.lastname@example.org or 07961077733. I would like to put something back in some small way, so would be happy to do what I can. It reminds me of years ago when I made a similar offer to Tom Proctor about digging caves, whereupon I lost large parts of my life to the world underground, including a memorable all-nighter in the mine in Eyam (trying to drain the Stoney caves into the working mine). However, despite being once bitten, I am serious about lending a hand. My only worry is that last time I ran into you was the day you were re-gearing College Buttress (I suggested you joined us for a climb later) and you appeared somewhat untidy! I don't have any clothes that scruffy! Still, there is always the charity shop ;-)
Will do when I get back from kalymnos
What are you on about?
And it’s been trashed enough by that ‘top 50’ status?
I’ve not done it in a while, first time was 10-12 years ago, and thoroughly enjoyed it. A pity it has been “trashed”. It was a great route!
As this thread has re-awakened, I can add another recommendation. On Saturday afternoon, dodging showers, I did Sit Down Wall (6a) at Hidden Quarry (formerly Darlton 2). All quite solid feeling, enough bolts not to be scary but not so many that it feels like an indoor wall and one of those routes that turns out to be considerably easier than it looks from below! It also doesn't seem to have any seeps on it and dries very quickly after rain. I would go as far as to say something I very rarely say... it's a bit of a soft touch! Enjoy!
UKC/UKH/Rockfax has experienced an attack that has possibly resulted in a breach of data. We have outlined recommendations, along with some more information on what happened.