UKH

Hi.

In a route description, what does fingery climbing mean? Does it mean that good finger strength is needed?

On a similar topic, hypothetically speaking, can The Zone (E9 6c) and Braille Trail (E7 6c) be done as problems above some bouldering mats?

MS

I would take it to mean that the holds on the crux are small. Finger strength and / or forearm stamina needed if technique is inadequate.

The 2 routes you linked are 10m and 15m high. Not the sort of height I'd want to drop off onto a mat!

Exactly that. It would imply small but often positive holds.

You could certainly do them as problems above some bouldering mats - but the mats would be very hypothetical, for sure.

as long as you don't fall off

Anything's a boulder problem if you're brave enough.

I've done Peapod and Brooks Crack (the HVSs near those routes) and they felt plenty high enough. I don't know about The Zone but I think the hard part of Braille Trail is pretty high up. But I dunno, you look at things like Too Big To Flail ( youtube.com/watch?v=O9sOy304RsA&) and people have taken the ride from a similar height. Onto about 10 pads though.

Just not an approach we really use in the UK. Tons of mats would tame a lot of the desperates on grit but it would be a real shame.

Hi Andy.

I am not sure about forearm stamina but I do have strong fingers.

I thought the same as you - good finger strength.

Someone who did Zoolook (8a) at  Malham Cove said that the route changed her mind on fingery climbing.

Sav

Both routes have unusual protection.

Hi Paul.

I've walked above The Peapod and climbed at Burbage North - Offwidth pointed out to me where Parthian Shot (E10 6c) is/was and therefore Brooks' Crack (HVS 5a) is/was. I am actually climbing at Froggatt and Curbar with Offwidth at the end of next month.

Unless you a 100% boulderer. I wonder if one of Sheffield's finest will try one or both of the linked routes in my OP as bouldering problems.

Tons of mats would tame a lot of the desperates on grit but it would be a real shame.

Too right.

MS

It makes you squirt.

I suggest you take another look at the picture linked above?

Hi Michael.

What picture are you referring to?

MS

It's the only one linked in this thread. From chris_r

I have found it and saw that the hard moves on Braille Trail are high up.

MS

All the routes mentioned would be solos, not Boulder problems. Fall off the top and it’s a body bag you need not a mat!

Watch Life On Hold, they highballed grit routes in that.

As opposed to handy climbing which is a boulder at the bottom of the garden.

I am not going to try to solo them. 

Savvas?

Cool as beans?

Is this a sexual post?

Morty.

What post of mine are you replying to?

MS