What did you climb this week(end)?

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 TobyA 03 Oct 2021

I've started these threads in autumns past and they have run quite well; basically share whatever you've got up to in the past week (not everyone climbs only on weekends)! Add as much or as little description and editorialising as you wish. Trad, winter (once the snows hit), sport, bouldering, even indoors if you want.

Someone was moaning about no "normal" climbing getting reported, or no trips reports etc. recently, and others seem to say there's less climbing chat on UKC then in days of yore (whenever that actually was) but I'm sure loads of folk, just as many as always if not more, are out at ticking routes so let's show them.

I had a great weekend. An old mate - the climbing partner who I've done all my biggest climbs with - was visiting from visiting from Finland (although he's originally from the UK). I haven't seen Dave in person since pre-covid. His flight got in at 5 pm Friday, I sent him a pin for Hidden Quarry (formerly Darlton 2) and told him to drive straight to the crag. It was still actually light as we met and walked in, but definitely wasn't light anymore when Dave was trying to clip bolt 2! Being a hardy old mountain man, he onsighted Sit Down Wall (6a) by headtorch. Turns out sport climbing in the dark is surprisingly doable!

Dave had his meeting with Eagle Ski Touring Club on Saturday, but Sunday we got out to Stanage. Plan A had been to go down to Cheedale to do the Chee Tor Girdle, but for various reasons we decided to go to the grit instead. Turns out this was a good thing because as I passed over half of the rack and ropes for him to carry I discovered I had forgotten my harness. This is the second time I've managed to do this in a month having not done it before except once about 25 years ago! So Stanage to home and back, is a lot quicker than Cheedale to home and back. Disaster averted we walked up to Stanage North, did a couple of easier routes at Crow Chin then Dave did the superb Right-hand Tower (HVS 5a) in a screaming gale! It's quite well protected if you take plenty of medium and big cams, but the moves up on to the top felt precarious and hard - it must have been terrifying when it was given VS in past!

Even went to see James Bond on saturday with the missus as well, so all round - a good weekend.


 The Pylon King 03 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

This week gone (on the nice sunny days) cleaning and preparing new routes in The Mendip Hills for the forthcoming guidebook.

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 McHeath 03 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Thanks for starting this up again Toby! I'd remembered your previous threads while reading the thread you mentioned; someone there suggested a "trip report" forum and I thought: well, we used to have something similar, but what was it called, where's it gone? I've missed the climbing posts over the last 18 months, we even have at least one regular top 40 poster who has nothing on his profile about climbing, no logbook or wishlist, and (from his posting history) apparently no interest in climbing themes at all... 

Nothing except for two unspectacular indoor sessions to report for the last week, but heading for predicted good weather in the Elbsandstein from Wed to Sat. So replacing my knotted sling material tomorrow, and very psyched. Be back to you next week!  

Post edited at 00:10
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 deacondeacon 04 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Nice one Toby, always enjoyed these threads 🙂.

Bouldering on Friday night at Burbage South. Decided to strictly keep the numbers low and just potter around, and it was brilliant! Good problem after good problem for about two hours (I had to get the lamp out). Sunday went to Turningstone Edge and climbed an HVS called (I think) Depression Arete. A mate climbed Amber Arete and then as another mate started climbing Natiomal Power the heavens opened. Sat in a cave for a bit before exploring Ravensnest Tor and then onto some god awful limestone quarry in the valley. Not much climbing but loads and loads of fun all day, and was still Brill.

Found a really funny rock carving too (on Cocking Tor aptly).


 DaveHK 04 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

I had a good bouldering session at Cummingston on Friday afternoon. After not doing much rock climbing for about a decade I'm finally getting back to a decent (for me!) level. It's taken a while though. I'm planning to revamp my board in the garage and do some actual training over the winter to see where that gets me. Hopefully not just knackered elbows.

 Michael Hood 04 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

First time climbing outside since I spasmed my back in July (I missed summer). Went to Windgather and soloed a load of easy routes, in the wind of course. I appear to be creaking, it's going to take the rest of the year to get any semblance of strength and fitness back.

 john arran 04 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Got out yesterday for the first time on the new sector I'm developing. The one I thought would be around 6a turned out to be 6a+, the 6b+ was 6c+, and the sensationally good 7c was maybe 8a. Unfortunately I fell off right near the top of the last one. Twice. So I'll just have to enjoy it again another day soon 😄

 dominic o 04 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

A couple of days spent chasing elusive dry rock around Snowdonia, salvaged by two short afternoon sessions at Tremadog (Cream, Falcon and Vulcan) 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2021/09/25/tremadog-cream-vulcan-and-falco...

... followed by a reminder of the fabulous weather and trad climbing available at UPT 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2021/09/26/upper-pen-trewyn-sunshine-by-th...

Cheers, Dom 

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 Toerag 04 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

> Turns out sport climbing in the dark is surprisingly doable!

I dunno, any climbing in the dark is easy enough as long as you don't need to see a long way ahead to routefind.

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 Dave Todd 04 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Last weekend I climbed mainly sand-dunes...

https://www.theboc.org.uk/

(It didn't go terribly well...)

 HeMa 04 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

We had a good weekend with Sari (and she also had a good week). Weekend prior we visited a new "local" bouldering spot, that was rather busy. I managed to tick majority of the routes there, but for Sari one really sweet 7A was close. So she took any day off, and went to finish it. 

Then on Sat, we visited the mega-släb of Nalkkila and Sari rather casually ticked Ota mut (7b) followed directly afterwards an even more casual send of Mari (7a+). I got to work on my grigri self-belay (lead) techinue on a few of the easier lines to setup top-ropes for the kids to climb... I did not die, which was good.

And since Sat was Sari's day, I got to d ore stuff on Sun, meaning I managed to tick Lopen Uupunut (7B) and got my years tally of new 7th grade problems to equal my age in years (the games we play, eh)... actually I had hit the minimum target like a week or so ago, but that was with the guidebook grades... some of which certainly were not in the 'Bleu 7th grade register... yesterdays Lopen Uupunut made made my own opinion also equal to 41... And my 7th grade problem per climbing day ratio seems to also be around what I have wished (~1)...

So all in all, I'm reasonably happy of this season and last week(end), and I might even have a few more days left.

In reply to deacondeacon:

> Found a really funny rock carving too (on Cocking Tor aptly).

Disgusting vandalism, the perpetrators should be hung by the neck from the nearest belay point

 deacondeacon 04 Oct 2021
In reply to Boris's Johnson:

If there was a belay point at Cocking Tor the vandalism would be just as bad as the carving 🙂

The carvings on this particular piece of rock are mostly 1800's and this one looks just as old to be honest.

 Michael Hood 04 Oct 2021
In reply to Dave Todd:

> (It didn't go terribly well...)

Firstly, at least you were there. Dunes is one of the types of terrain I'd like to have a go at but I think the micro-navigation they require would see me making all kinds of mistakes.

  • 13-14 looks like you didn't know exactly where you hit the high fence, others seem to have gone to a nearer, more certain gap.
  • 17-18 - we've all done that ☹ so frustrating when it happens

But, how comes you were amongst the fastest on the short penultimate leg and the run in? Either you've got good natural sprinting speed, or you'd not been running fast enough beforehand to wipe your legs out sufficiently 😁

With apologies for the stalking.

 AdrianC 04 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

We had a mini adventure on the Souter at Fastcastle on Saturday.  For a half-day out before the rain started, it had a bit of everything. 

This morning, I read this thread and thought "I must remember to reply to that thread later."

Today we went up to Scugdale where, in a small twist to the tale, we ran into your mate Dave and surprised him with our thorough knowledge of his weekend's activities.  Spooky.

OP TobyA 04 Oct 2021
In reply to AdrianC:

> Today we went up to Scugdale where, in a small twist to the tale, we ran into your mate Dave and surprised him with our thorough knowledge of his weekend's activities.  Spooky.

Haha! But how did you know he was THAT Dave? As opposed to any other Dave who just happened to be bouldering in Scugdale?

 AdrianC 04 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

He mentioned that he'd just arrived from Finland.  That seemed to narrow it down somewhat.

 Dave Todd 04 Oct 2021
In reply to Michael Hood:

> 13-14 looks like you didn't know exactly where you hit the high fence, others seem to have gone to a nearer, more certain gap.

Absolutely correct, I just ran in the rough direction towards the fence but hadn't realised that I was running into a dead end.  Rookie error (which I avoided on day 2).

> 17-18 - we've all done that ☹ so frustrating when it happens

Very frustrating!  Strangely there were a few of us all looking in the wrong place - which convinces you that 'can't all be wrong' (sadly not true!)  Lots of people seemed to be a bit lost around that area.  When I saw someone walking backwards down a sand-dune, still studying their map then I realised that someone might be having a worse time than me...

> But, how comes you were amongst the fastest on the short penultimate leg and the run in? Either you've got good natural sprinting speed, or you'd not been running fast enough beforehand to wipe your legs out sufficiently 😁

I'm trying to run at the speed my brain can orienteer.  In the recent past my legs have been writing cheques that my orienteering skills can't cash.  I'm trying to slow it down to avoid the big errors.  Running speed isn't my limiting factor at the moment...

> With apologies for the stalking.

No need to apologise - all advice is very welcomely received!

OP TobyA 04 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

This has been a good start, we've got as far north as the Moray Coast, as far South as the Mendips, as west as Tremadog and as guano-covered as the Souter (guessing by reputation!).

Midweekers, report back and keep the psyche high! McHeath, knot those slings well and put lots of them in! I've heard terrifying stories of them not working particularly well, at least when beginners in that area try placing them. Climb safe! 

 martin curtis 04 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

I sent my first f6b boulder problem at Cademan Woods last Thursday, just before a heavy shower soaked everything.

The Power of Juan (with footblocks).

Not bad for an old geezer Power of Juan (With Footblock) (f6B)

 ChrisBrooke 05 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

I don't climb much at weekends...but on Friday afternoon I got out for a quick session at Burbage West. Ticked Famous Grouse (f7B+), having had a few goes at it recently. It's got a couple of really hard moves at the bottom before a few V0 easy slab moves to top out quite high. Was pleased to be able to do it in pretty hot, sunny conditions - that bit of Burbage West is a real sun trap. I've managed quite a few 7B-7B+ problems on grit through the summer months, so I'm feeling quite optimistic for the coming cooler temperatures of Autumn.

youtube.com/watch?v=6KOjxF7O7jI&

 climber34neil 05 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Had a session in the cave of dreams, tried a new route/link up, got soaked , came down, did some laps on the roofs, convinced some rained of sport climbers that dry tooling was the only type of climbing worth doing, one of them was convinced,  had a go on our gear and loved it,  then bolted and cleaned a new route 

Masson Lees Quarry

Post edited at 20:35
OP TobyA 05 Oct 2021
In reply to climber34neil:

Do you have a recommendation for a Masson dry tool route for someone (me!) who is a pretty experienced ice and winter climber (I think I've only not used crampons one winter in the last 28! Up to Scottish V/VI and WI4ish), but has never tried pure dry tooling? Basically which of the easier routes there have the friendliest bolting for getting started? I have a clip stick and no the quarry from sport climbing there. Cheers!

 George_Surf 05 Oct 2021
In reply to dominic o:

youve done well given the weather! its gone from summer to full on autumn virtually overnight. looks like you had a good time at tremadog. if you think the approach to Vulcan was bad, you should have seen it 6 weeks ago before I pulled loads of the ivy and thorns off it and tried to get the worst of the dirt off the ledges! I agree, scary in the damp with next to no gear, suspect rock and no friction (coupled with the brambles!). it does wander right before going way back left though, it's easy to get lured too direct, shame we didn't catch you!

 dominic o 06 Oct 2021
In reply to George_Surf:

Good effort on the gardening! Surprising how little traffic Pant Ifan seems to get these days! 

Jake and I had spotted that we seemed to be following in your footsteps on our mini-break. Sounds like you and Rachel are going well! Hopefully catch up somewhere warm and dry over winter  

Cheers, Dom 

 Bulls Crack 06 Oct 2021
In reply to Dave Todd:

Did the event use existing designated routes/paths or, it being orienteering, was it u to competitors? I'm just surprised given that its a SSSI,SAC etc but no mention of dune habitats/conservation on the event info as far as I can see?

 climber34neil 06 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Hi Toby  

Plenty to go at there now, we have done a lot of development over the last 18 months or so , resulting in lots of friendly style routes to go at. All of them are well bolted and we have replaced old bolts on existing routes and added "proper " lower offs . There are routes of M3 and upwards starting on the buttress to the left of the approach path in front of the main area , then routes of M5 on the left of the main crag so just work your way along, they are all good and I expect well within your capability. We have nearly finished a definitive guide to tooling at masson which will be available as a download for a small fee, which then goes to the continued development  and re equipping of routes there. I go regularly so if you fancy it I'm happy to meet you out there.  Drop me an email or text (07581151203) if you are keen.

 Dave Todd 06 Oct 2021
In reply to Bulls Crack:

> Did the event use existing designated routes/paths or, it being orienteering, was it u to competitors? I'm just surprised given that its a SSSI,SAC etc but no mention of dune habitats/conservation on the event info as far as I can see?

Good question - to which I don't have a definitive answer.  Like almost all orienteering events it was a 'choose your own route' event.  There was a small 'out of bounds' area marked on the map (i.e. no access whatsoever) plus a fence which was only allowed to be crossed at existing stiles.  In my (short) experience with orienteering, events only happen with the permissions of the land owner (especially a big event like this - British Long Distance Championships).  Events are usually organised by orienteering clubs local to the areas (in this case Devon and BOK) following negotiations with the land owners, and including any special conditions that the land owner requests.  I'd be very surprised if this hadn't happened in this case - but I don't have any details (as I was just running as a participant and have no contacts with Devon or BOK clubs).

Interestingly, the dunes are apparently still used for military training;

> Braunton Burrows is still used to train personnel for amphibious landings, but its main use today is for military drivers to practise their off-road driving skills on the dunes and sandy roads. Additionally, it's used for dismounted infantry training and dropping equipment from aircraft.

(from https://insidedio.blog.gov.uk/2019/06/05/from-d-day-to-today-braunton-burro... )

OP TobyA 06 Oct 2021
In reply to climber34neil:

Cheers Neil! - I've messaged you my contacts via UKC.

OP TobyA 09 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

I was pretty poorly last week, and still coughing and sneezing my way through this week so I haven't cycled to work once in the last 14 days! I got home last night and thought the weather was so nice I'd go for a quick mountain bike ride before it got dark, but my partner said she was thinking of taking our youngest up to Higgar Tor for a walk, so I changed plans, grabbed my rock shoes and went with them. I walked along below the East Walls where I've not actually done any lines, soloed, led or bouldered. But as the guide suggested would be the case it was both green and wet. I was a bit surprised how wet as it had been a lovely day an although it has rained a fair bit over the last week or so, we've had a very dry summer (if not particularly sunny and warm) in the Peak. But going round the corner into the setting sun the rock was dry and clean. I even found a couple of easy routes for quick solos that I haven't done before - including the comically short Freya's Corner (D). I love climbing, all climbing really, but even I had to laugh at this small scrambling boulder problem calling itself a route!

Then my son and I scrambled up one of those narrow faults that Higgar seems to specialise in - at 4 he fitted in much more easily than me - I'm sure they are getting narrower? I means that's the only logical explanation isn't it.

Anyone else been out?


OP TobyA 10 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Right, come on folks - lets be havin' yer... What did you climb this weekend? Let's not let the nattering nabobs of negativism who moan "no one talks about climbing on UKC anymore" win!

This morning I took up Neil's kind offer higher up on this thread to go drytooling with him at Masson Lees. Packing ice climbing boots, monos and tools last night along with a clip stick, grigri and sport draws felt pretty weird, but not as weird as putting the boots on at the crag this morning! We started with Neil blasting up The Warm-Up (D6) (spoiler alert: it isn't!) I seconded and just about made it up with numerous rests on the rope and some falls! After lowering off a pumped and sweaty mess and collecting myself a little, I actually managed to onsight lead a newish M3. Neil powered across one of the amazing M10 roof routes - I got pumped just belaying and watching! I then tried the M4+, but even being told where all the hooks were, still only did it with one rest. I will "send" next time! Then Neil did a short M6 at the same area, and I just about managed it on a top rope with again a few falls. Bloomin' 'eck, dry tooling is hard work, and also not really like ice climbing or UK mixed, at least at the sort of grades I've done - up to Scottish V. My arms and shoulders are sill a bit knackered now! Cheers for putting up with my whimpering lads.

Post edited at 21:20

 Dave Cundy 10 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

After two seasons blighted by lockdowns etc, i went down to the Avon Gorge yesterday afternoon and we knocked off M1 and the first pitch of Ffoeg's Folly.

M1 was my first E point for two years, so well pleased with that, especially as my long time climbing partner said i looked like i had a grade in hand.

As it was only 5pm, there was just time for s single pitch (FF p1) before a pint in the Nova.  It made for a cracking afternoon, considering how little we've got out recently.

And i keep looking at FF p2.  Carpe Diem, as the saying goes.  If not now, then when?

 Bobling 10 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Took the eldest child to New Quarry and mucked about on the traverse there for a little while, just an amazing experience to see him exploring the vertical world and working out how to use that style of rock that's so very Avon, side-pulls, under-clings, thinking between the footholds.  Shout out to Bald Eagle for lending us a pair of rock boots : )

Then we headed over to Main Wall to have a look around and went up Easy Route (M) in our trainers till we got to below the little bulgy wall below Easy Slabs.  I had a little fit of the parent tremors when I realised how high we'd got suddenly.  Lovely to give the young one a little tour of a place in our city that he'd never been to but where I'd spent so many hours.  On the drive in I was telling him about how when he was a baby I'd put him to bed then nip over on a summer evening for a quick fix at the New Quarry, and now here he is wearing a pair of rock boots the same size as mine!  Suprisingly emotional.

 climber34neil 10 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

The whimpering is all part of the fun, was good to see you getting stuck in and embracing the dark art! We got the new route done this afternoon White Lines (D6) a d finished by nipping up CHOOSE LIFE (D8)

I expect you will be regular at the crag of dreams now !!

 Jon Stewart 10 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Did a round of the classic problems at  Bridestones (West Yorkshire). The no guidebook thing is really working a treat there.

Ssshhh!

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 ericinbristol 10 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Nice thread! I was on Shangri-la 7b+ https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/cheddar_gorge_south-240/shangri-la... in Cheddar. Gorgeous day. Fab to see loads of teams on Coronation Street (I must do that again) plus a team on Crow (I really must get on that. Climbing with the excellent bristoldave. When I got to the crag I was totally frazzled from overwork. First burn and I had nothing in my arms, struggling on even the easy sections. Years back I had been on redpoint but in the interim I had forgotten the crux moves. With some key beta from Dave I got all the moves on the second working go. Too tired to have a proper third go but filled with the joy of it all. I love climbing so much - it is so good for me, truly my happy place. Another great day on the rock. The fact that I didn't tick the route that day was totally beside the point. I floated back home afterwards, ready for the work fray again... 

 ericinbristol 10 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Nice thread! I was on Shangri-la 7b+ https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/cheddar_gorge_south-240/shangri-la... in Cheddar. Gorgeous day. Fab to see loads of teams on Coronation Street (I must do that again) plus a team on Crow (I really must get on that). Climbing with the excellent bristoldave. When I got to the crag I was totally frazzled from overwork. First burn and I had nothing in my arms, struggling on even the easy sections. Years back I had been on redpoint but in the interim I had forgotten the crux moves. With some key beta from Dave I got all the moves on the second working go. Too tired to have a proper third go but filled with the joy of it all. I love climbing so much - it is so good for me, truly my happy place. Another great day on the rock. The fact that I didn't tick the route that day was totally beside the point. I floated back home afterwards, ready for the work fray again... 

Post edited at 23:08
cb294 11 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Just a day hike this weekend as we were busy Saturday, so on Sunday we went up Bschiesser from Hinterstein in the Allgäu Alps, 1200m elevation gain, bright sunshine, no cloud to be seen all day except below us where a dense layer of fog covered southern Bavaria...

I still cannot believe that I can honestly type the previous sentence, moving back South was the best idea in long time!

CB

 john arran 11 Oct 2021
In reply to john arran:

> Got out yesterday for the first time on the new sector I'm developing. The one I thought would be around 6a turned out to be 6a+, the 6b+ was 6c+, and the sensationally good 7c was maybe 8a. Unfortunately I fell off right near the top of the last one. Twice. So I'll just have to enjoy it again another day soon 😄

Well not quite the weekend (which was spent with my daughter) but on Friday I went back and got the redpoint.

Back there this afternoon to bolt a harder one

 McHeath 11 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Finally got back onto my beloved Elbsandstein for three days last week, staying with Tony and Sarah Whitehouse at the Freitaler hut in Bad Schandau. The rock was still wet on Wednesday so we had a fun session at the Yoyo wall near Pirna. 

Glorious weather and dry rock on Thursday; we went to the  Hintere Sächsische Schweiz and warmed up on Nordwand and Nordpfeiler (IV). One knotted sling and a good thread in 20m - it was great to get into the Saxon flow again. We then went round the corner to get to grips with the big challenge for the day,  Südriss (VI). This is an unforgiving hand/fist/arm crack with a single ring at half height; above the ring there are no more possibilities for protection. Tony started off, but had to come down after reaching the ring - he'd broken his little finger while running three weeks ago, and its new angle made a crucial jam impossible. I took over the sharp end and got to a position a few metres above the ring from which I could neither climb up nor down, so after a few attempts accompanied by rapid fading of strength I took my first biggish whipper on sandstone, meeting Sarah a couple of metres above the ground - thanks again for the catch Sarah, and I hope your nose has recovered! We then got a toprope on the route and all three of us climbed it without any problems before retiring to the pub.

Friday was the best. Despite the sun and blue skies we somehow managed to start off on a cold, shady, windy and slightly damp tower hidden among the trees. After three routes we moved to the  Tafelberge, high up and sunny with fantastic views of the Elbe valley. Here I finally got around to leading my first Saxon VIIb, Andacht (VI),wall climbing with two nice rings and a reachy crux from high smears for the feet. The amazing sandstone friction did its job, and I was dead chuffed to get the clean onsight. So on to its partner route at the same grade, Abendmahl (VI), very different in style - the first 10m exhilarating overhangs on huge jugs and flakes to a big thread and then the ring, followed by a tricky wide move left before tackling the sunny slabs to the top. Again clean and onsight - I couldn't have been happier. 

I'd have stayed longer, but I had to get back to Berlin for a special date yesterday - running the  25km von Berlin together with my friend Nino, whose 81st birthday it was. We've been running it together since 1993, we'd broken the 2 hours together years ago, but this time neither of us had been able to train much and we were only concerned with reaching the finish before the cutoff time of 3h 15. We needn't have worried; we ran steadily at 7:30/km and reached the finishing line in 3:07:03. Again, perfect weather - cold, sunny and windless - so that was a fitting end to a great week. 

Post edited at 11:14
 MeMeMe 11 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Thinking the wet weather on Saturday might have deterred people from the high crags I had a meander up to The Napes

Unfortunately I was disappointed in that the crag was full of Edinburgh Uni Mountaineering club students plus a bunch of other parties who possibly had the same idea as me!

Luckily everyone was very friendly and accommodating and after a short lunch I re-enacted Walter Parry Haskett-Smith's on-sight solo of the Napes Needle although lack of foresight meant I'd not dressed in tweeds nor was I wearing big boots.

Then off up Needle Ridge and home in time for tea. A great day out.


 seankenny 11 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Great thread resuscitation Toby.

This week I enjoyed my flexible working to go out to Portland on Wednesday with Duncan, as the forecast was mint (and correct). Did a warm up and then tried Road Rage 7b+. Have hardly done any climbing in the past month due to being ill so it didn't go particularly well but I've been wanting to try it for a while, it's always good to see what you're missing. Which in this case was almost everything! Still great to be down by the sea and enjoying the sunshine.

 C Witter 11 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

A well-revived thread!

I've just moved from Lancaster to Huddersfield, so have swapped volcanic Cumbrian rock for grit. It's exciting to have new places to explore, though I'm finding grit a little humbling!

After 5 days of working followed by 6 days of moving, cleaning and unpacking, on Friday I finally got outside for a bit of fresh air and time to myself. I headed to West Nab with my bouldering mat and took a look around. I really enjoyed the sunshine and the rock, though I was beaten by some of the harder climbs. The best problems from that day were:

Paul's Wall (OTM 45) (V1) - nice holds, excitingly highball!
Archaic (V4) - a bit of a tight line, but great runnels and a weird move to get established
OTM Problem 72 (V1) - enjoyable, easy but exciting arete
#poorkarl (V2) - good steep moves on big holds

I made progress on Archery (V6) but got freaked out by the commitment on my own and it remained unfinished. I also didn't know about the flake sidepull beta until I logged it, and was trying to commit to a direct version. I also did about 4 versions of Hours of Practice (V6) but none of them the very tight V5/6 line. Eventually, I'd lost too much skin on the crimps.

On the Saturday I had to buy a fridge, but then headed for a little wander with my partner up to Blackstone Edge. The north crag looked grimly impressive; the south crag, short and inviting. I soloed a few easy lines, including More (S 4a), Another! (f4+), Who? Me? (VS 4b), Rubbery (f5) and Foot Business (f5). Pleasant. On the way home, looking out toward Rochdale and Greater Manchester, we saw a swoop of white: an owl, a barn owl! It flew low among the tussocks, dropping to attack something, hopping up again to float against the hillside. We watched it quietly for a while, kneeling down as it keeled around and flew closer then further, passing before us with its flat little face and great wings.

On Sunday I went to Brimham to meet a fair sized group of friends. It was great to be out together - t-shirt weather and grit excitement. I warmed up by almost falling off the surprisingly tricky crux of Rough Wall (VS 5a) (HVS in my book). I was then completely shut down by the first jams up Minion's Way (HVS 5c) and limped off after a while, tail between my legs. E1 5c and a bit knacky in my mind. We went over to the area near Lover's Leap to do Birch Tree Wall (VS 4c) (a bit bold without a massive cam!), Central Crack (VS 5a) (HVS 5b IMO), Right-Hand Crack (VS 4b) (VS/HVS 5a), and the right-hand crack of Parallel Cracks (VS 4c) (HVS 5a again). Proper sandbags, in short - far harder than Cumbrian VSs and Blackstone Edge VS/HVS - but really enjoyable and fun when approached with a bit of humility. It was great to familiarise myself with grit and crack climbing and do some routes that necessitate sustained jamming. I finished off on Right Wall (VS 4c) (VS 5a?) and soloed Lichen Slab (VD) after giving up on the utter horrorshow of President's Progress (HVD)! It was a really great day for giving me a taste of the pleasure of a day out gritstone climbing.

A bit tired today

 julesmckim 11 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Good thread, motivating to read about everyone's exploits.

Had a great couple of days in lovely weather. Climbed with friend Alex who I hadn't seen in a while so good to catch up with him. My crappy old VW Bora broke down on the way to Cheddar but we managed to limp to below Burmese wall. I love the routes here, the rock is so good. Did a few sport 6s then got on Burma Road, an old E2. So many plants where there should be holds! But great fun all the same and the middle of the top pitch is brilliant technical groove climbing out in space. Then back to fail on an old project, Brazilia 87. Completely baffled by the crux on this. A mixed day nicely rounded off with a pint of Potholer while waiting for the AA recovery truck.

Then in contrast a smooth drive to Portland in Alex's BMW and a fabulous day at the Trad Free World area of Wallsend South. Every route here is top notch. The usual grease had gone, conditions were perfect and Halfway to Heaven was my best lead of the year, bridging up that groove in the top as the sun came out. It's been with me, on my mind, all day

 dominic o 11 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

A contrasting couple of days on sun-kissed limestone in the Durance Valley: Day 1 reminding myself how harrowing a runout sport route can be when it's polished to a fine sheen and there's sweat pouring into your eyes; and Day 2 sampling the delights of a newly developed crag where you can still smear with confidence and relish the joy of a pocketed slab!

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2021/10/09/les-traverses-st-crepin-french-...

 alan moore 11 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Beautiful weather in Devon visiting my folks. Dad has hook-shaped fingers from arthritis but still good for climbing. 

Christened the new Culm book with Half Mast at Higher Sharpnose. Good adventure stuff with multiple abseils to get down and 300ft of slab and arete climbing to get out.

Miles of incredible coastline to ourselves.

 Boomer Doomer 12 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Went to a completely deserted Wynd Cliff on Sunday and we did three routes on the righthand crag.

Lead - Questor (VS 4c)

Second - Shaft (E2 5c)

Lead - Cardiac (VS 4c)

OP TobyA 17 Oct 2021
In reply to Boomer Doomer:

OK, who had a "proud send" this weekend - or whatever we are meant to say these days?

I had promised to take my family down to see my parents this weekend so was a bit time limited, but having a sleep deprived young dad who is woken up at 6 am everyday by his lovely sprog among my regular partners, has its advantages. So Luke and I met at a still rather chilly  Hidden Quarry (formerly Darlton 2) at 0830 and got a few routes ticked in the morning. I carried on ticking away at the lower 6s on the Lower Tier, adding Bish (6a+) and Bash (6a+) to previous ascents of Bosh and Dosh, although for speed I top roped Bash - so I'll need to go back and lead it at some point. And BTW if there are any Hidden Quarry aficionados out there who have done Bash, did you finish at the left lower off, as for Bish? Or the right lower off as for Bosh? We weren't sure - and the Rockfax topo shows and optimistic four separate lower offs, while in reality there are two for the four routes.  

Then we went over to Sit Down Buttress where Luke onsighted Stand Out Arete (6b+) and started working the 6c round the corner and I put on my boxing gloves, well - OK crack gloves, and did pleasantly easy-feeling ascent of the good fun and more solid feeling that I suspected Berserker Joe (5c). Home before midday! Wooly hats, duvets for belaying and yellow and red leaves - all feeling very autumnal. 


 C Witter 17 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

This weekend was damp in the North and, worse, I had an incredibly involving flatpack wardrobe to assemble. The wardrobe was epic... 4 hours in, I felt like I was in a constricted chimney, chicken winging, getting pumped out of my mind trying to drive a screw into some flexing plywood on my offside, whilst holding a hinge in place, trying to maintain body tension, knowing the consequences of a lapse in concentration (£££s down the drain). Gripping stuff.

Fortunately, I did get out for some actual climbing on Wednesday, which was surprisingly rewarding.

I was thinking to go out by myself to explore the Huddersfield surrounds, but on an impulse I got in touch with an oddball I met on a trip to Spain in 2020 - Bedspring or "Prof. Steve X" as he is sometimes known. Bedspring reminds me of my uncle Derek: they've both got big, mobile features and thick Lancashire accents.  But, the most obvious similarity is that they both talk compulsively. Constant wind-ups, bad jokes and stupid questions ("so, how's your sex life then Chris? Are you still vegetarian? Watchout for John, he f*cking hates lefties like you."). Despite this, Bedspring has a good heart.

Bedspring was heading to Froggat with a rag-tag gang of guys slightly past their best before: Chris Tan of Chris Tan Death Products; big John, who used to solo E3s and recently fell off the second step of a ladder; and Moriarty (aka Bob) - another guy who was with us on the Spain trip. Bob talks, sotto voce, in a quietly intense ramble, as though he's explaining the plan, even though he's just chewing your ear off about something or other that never quite arrives. He has the mistaken impression that I'm "cultured" and that I can climb hard things, so he quickly partnered up with me.

After warming up on a VS, we had a quick, discreet top-rope of some blank slabs well above our paygrade. They were exquisite. I wish one day for the confidence to climb them - with calm and poise. Unfortunately, that's no day soon.

After the delicacy of those slab routes, John, Moriarty and I stumbled along the foot of the crag after the others, toward the Pinnacle climbed by Valkyrie. And here, Moriarty's ramble finally arrived. Apparently he wanted to use me to achieve his long-held ambition of getting up Valkyrie. So, I thought you could lead the stiff crack, Chris." "It's in Hard Rock," John helpfully added. The crack of the first pitch loomed up. You knew, just looking at it, that, although you could see feet and good jams and ample gear and it all seemed so doable, that once you got involved with it, all that would be out the window: you'd be fighting for your life, pumped out of your mind, cursing your existence, trying to place a cam but wanting only to weep and vomit. Big John brightened up as we contemplated it, dispensing helpful advice and hard-won wisdom. There was no way he was getting on it. I went to take a leak. Bloody hell.

Eventually, in a daze, I got on the crack and somehow got up it, breathless, having thought for a long moment that I was going to come off, whaling up onto the left ledge for a rest. After 5 minutes, still exhausted, I downclimbed and traversed to the right ledge, elated to reach the jug, less impressed by the awkward belay. Only 8m, it had felt like a pub brawl or a really tough day with a flatpack and a blunt screwdriver.

To get my own back on Moriarty, I suggested he should lead the top pitch. I soon wished I hadn't, as he gibbered and flailed around just above my head. Any moment, I thought he'd peel off and karate kick me in the head as all 14 stone of him fell onto me. What had looked from below to be a few steep, juggy moves through a bulge onto an easy slab turned out instead to be an incredibly awkward mantle onto a slanting shelf with no positive hands. Shaking away up there, Moriarty began to attract a crowd: the three others from our party, plus a few randomers - all shouting advice up to him. "There's a big pocket by your right foot. No, your other right." "Yes, yes, yes, no!" "Put your foot into that crack..." "Keep going left, it gets easier!" "Bob, just walk around and you can get a rest." It was horrendous and hilarious in equal measure. Somehow, Moriarty overcame the chants and taunts to heroically flounder onto the sloping ledge and, after a few tense moments, we were reunited on the summit.

As though in a binned scene from an Alan Partridge sketch, we went for a highfive and both missed, then looked each other in the eyes for a somber moment. Well done. Very well done.

 cragtyke 18 Oct 2021
In reply to C Witter:

As one of the random onlookers i have to give it only 8/10. No screams or haulage required. Good entertainment though.

Wish I'd known Chris Tan was there, to pay respect having espoused his cam reslinging method on an earlier thread.

Post edited at 00:34
OP TobyA 18 Oct 2021
In reply to C Witter:

Very good - but you missed out: did the top block noticeably wobble when you both finally made it up there? Well done anyway. When I tried Valkyrie about 20 years ago, I went up the crack reasonably easily then fell off the traverse round to the belay - as is my wont it would seem (ok on cracks, rubbish on even jugs if you really have to hang off them). BTW Chris Tan was long a major contributor to UKC back in the early days although I know he hasn't been on here much (at all?) in recent years. 

Where is everybody else's contributions?

Has anyone claimed a winter ascent of Pygmy Ridge (IV 5) over the weekend for example? Cragtyke - what did you get done at Froggatt beside casting admiring glances in Chris's direction?

 john arran 18 Oct 2021
In reply to john arran:

> Well not quite the weekend (which was spent with my daughter) but on Friday I went back and got the redpoint.

> Back there this afternoon to bolt a harder one

Well I did bolt a harder one - at least I thought it would be harder. And I climbed it this weekend. But somewhat disappointingly, I suspect this one's also 'only' 7c+, albeit a tad harder than the last one.

There's an extension that definitely will be harder, though I'm not sure it will go at a grade I can climb. I suppose that's a challenge for next weekend!

 Michael Hood 18 Oct 2021
In reply to john arran:

> There's an extension that definitely will be harder, though I'm not sure it will go at a grade I can climb. I suppose that's a challenge for next weekend!

I've just read Steve's blog about the 127 days over 7 years it took to get Rainman done, inspiring dedication; so you've still got a fair way to go before you can declare it beyond your abilities 😁

 john arran 18 Oct 2021
In reply to Michael Hood:

> I've just read Steve's blog about the 127 days over 7 years it took to get Rainman done, inspiring dedication; so you've still got a fair way to go before you can declare it beyond your abilities 😁

Yes, but that presupposes you have the mental aptitude to devote weeks, months or years to a single climb, and I suspect that in that department (as in most others, to be fair), Steve is in a different league to me!

 C Witter 18 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Ah, yes - the whole Pinnacle was swaying in the stiff breeze, whilst the top block chattered back and forth underfoot like an anxious sleeper grinding their teeth. It definitely added a note of adventure to an otherwise unassuming afternoon.

I think you missed a trick, Toby, as I jammed the horizontal break of the  traverse too! A trick I learnt in Reiff, after getting pumped silly trying to follow a friend who smugly informed me at the top that there were lots of good "jamming rests" all the way up! 

I think jamming is the only thing I've improved at this year and, having invested in a pair of crack gloves ahead of the move to Yorkshire, I'm never returning to bareback jamming - at least not on grit!

 dominic o 19 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Fabulous 250m, 8-pitch sport route on the Paroi des Lys in the Durance. Fiesta del Cinq Soup / Siza - as the name suggests, a joyous long outing at a sustained but amenable 5c-6a+. Highly recommended and another dozen similar lines on this impressive crag to go back for. 

https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/2021/10/16/paroi-des-lys-fiesta-del-cinq-s...

In reply to TobyA:

And BTW if there are any Hidden Quarry aficionados out there who have done Bash, did you finish at the left lower off, as for Bish? Or the right lower off as for Bosh? We weren't sure - and the Rockfax topo shows and optimistic four separate lower offs, while in reality there are two for the four routes.

There are three belays for Bish, Bash, Bosh and Dosh. Bish and Bash have separate belays. The Bash belay isn’t obvious from below as it lies on a slab above the route out of view and left of the belay of Bosh and Dosh.

Chris

Post edited at 12:35
OP TobyA 19 Oct 2021
In reply to Christheclimber:

> There are three belays for Bish, Bash, Bosh and Dosh. Bish and Bash have separate belays. The Bash belay isn’t obvious from below as it lies on a slab above the route out of view and left of the belay of Bosh and Dosh.

Thank you Chris - that's amazing, so it sounds like we completely missed the belay. When Luke went first we had some discussion as to whether he had to go left (to the Bish lower off) or right to the Bosh and Dosh lower off) both seemed possible - but it sounds that straight on was where we should have gone! I need to try and lead it now, so when I go back I will check more carefully from below to see if I can see the LO we missed. Thanks again!

 nickcanute 20 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Hiya Toby.

I was down on the Glamorgan coast with my missus, did a nice selection of the new routes on Costa Del Major, suntrap!

OP TobyA 26 Oct 2021
In reply to everyone:

I was hoping this thread would become self sustaining, but perhaps I need to give it a gentle kick from behind again! Who got out last weekend - or during the previous week? I've seen pictures of I think it was Pot of Gold (V 6) getting done last Thursday in what looked like actually rather good conditions, and some nice pics of folk on Fiacaill Ridge (II) with lots of snow on it - has anyone following this thread managed a winter route yet?

I was feeling really sick most of last week so didn't do anything at the weekend, but yesterday I was feel a bit better and as I'm on half-term holidays, decided to pop over to the far side of Bleaklow and scramble up Wildboar Clough (Summer) (Grade-2) for an afternoon out. I've done it once in the past, and I don't think that time I found a decent path to follow up into the clough - yesterday I most certainly didn't! It's quite impressively rough ground just getting up into the clough. I thought it was quite popular, but whilst I definitely found places where people had been before, I also stumbled around through totally pathless sections. Once on to the scrambling, it was all a bit grim, green and slippy, but better than stumbling about in the bracken and heather covered scree below!

Once out the top, after a fly past from a couple of Apache-Longbow helicopter gunships (I guess they need to train somewhere now they're not buzzing around Afghanistan!), I wandered eastward along the plateau edge to Shining Clough. It's literally over 20 years since my first and only previous visit. I had actually chucked rock shoes and chalk in my pack thinking I might be able to solo a Diff or Vdiff, but actually the guidebook is right - it's not really a crag for much else beyond dry times - probably in high summer. I did try scrambling up Ordinary Route (M), but even that was impressively green and wet, so I backed off.


 C Witter 26 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Hi Toby! Sorry, but it's been a bit p*issy and I didn't manage to do any climbing this last week... (the horror!) I did spend a week wandering around De Eryri in the hacking rain, though, just to make up for it.

Today was my first bit of climbing in a while and it was (the horror! the horror!) inside...!

I went down to my new local, Freeklime, for a muck about between chores. The guy who runs it is pretty enthusiastic and the setting's quite playful, so it was enjoyable. I just tried to OS things or do them in a couple of goes, and managed quite a few blacks and two oranges (c.V5). It was actually quite fun to climb on plastic again after a fairly long layoff - and also quite knackering. Then the place started to get busier and I started falling off more than getting up things, so I left.

The hilarious thing was that my sat nav had spontaneously gone on strike... and I was now lost in the middle of Huddersfield, with not a sodding clue how to get home. I trailed around in circles for a while, with every bloody scally in Yorkshire trying to stick their car up my arse because I was doing 28 rather than 40mph in the 30 zones... Eventually I managed, but only with the aid of some pretty forceful cursing. I really need to get my bearings... but this city is a bloody rabbit warren of industrial decay and there are no straight and obvious ways to get anywhere.

2
 Jon Stewart 26 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Keeping the autumn grit bouldering season going with visits to  Earl Crag and  Slipstones. Just repeating classics, but at Earl I looked at stacks of stuff to go back for on a nicer day (we didn't feel the need to try many of the slightly damp, intimidating highballs). Mega crag, so much there - definitely somewhere I've got plenty unticked and tickable.

 steveriley 27 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Small gap of opportunity before family visiting this weekend. Minor victory on the (fairly modest) Pocket Wall (V3), Helsby. Tried it a couple of times this year but lacked the power to pull through. Turns out the solution was do a load of stamina traverses on Long Wall and then wander up with low expectations

Post edited at 11:15
OP TobyA 27 Oct 2021
In reply to steveriley:

Soggy and windy late October weekends are times when no victory is a minor victory! You got out there and got it done. Kudos/waddage/hearty congratulations.

 Andy Hemsted 30 Oct 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Yet another excellent trip to Kalymnos, with some good outings on the tufa.

One particularly fine day up at Grande Grotta and Panorama with two Italian friends. After leading one of my old favourites (Monohiki Elia) and seconding another (Kalypige) I was resting, and watching John from Edinburgh make an impressive lead of Aeolia, a route that was new to me. When he'd finished none of his group wanted to second and clean, so I got to enjoy yet another fantastic journey up into the tufa forest of Panorama.

Now back in the UK, the first dry and warmish day will be spent re-investigating Southstone Rock, the West Midlands' answer to the Grande Grotta.....

OP TobyA 30 Oct 2021
In reply to Andy Hemsted:

I've not been to Kalymnos, but I have been to Southstone Rock many times. I'm having a bit of hard time seeing how Southstone can be compared to some thing called the "Grande Grotta" but hey, I shouldn't laugh until I go there and stand at the back because I may well end up thinking, "yeah, this is basically just like being under Madonna's Groove (HVS 5a)."

Last weekend of the half term break for me, most of which I've spent lazing around getting over whatever bug I had making me feel awful for the last few weeks. But on Thursday I got some new shoes delivered for reviewing for UKC, Scarpa Quantics, so wanted immediately to try them out. I took my 4 year old to Baslow, where he turned out to be a pretty poor expedition photographer, but I guess you get what you pay for, in this case a mini bag of Haribos I had found on my colleagues desk at the end of school last week. He sang his months of year song MANY times whilst I tottered up various slabby vdiffs that actually always feel more like slightly worrying, easy but still techy highballs than "normal climbs", but I got to try the new shoes out before the rain started so that was good.

Today after this morning's deluge had passed I popped out to  Goddard's Quarry with Nick, the King of Goddard's, to tick a few more routes on the upper tier that were in the sun and were mainly dry. I think the poetically named Silent Front (6a) was the best of the three 6as I got up. The new shoes impressed as much as anything can at Goddard's as they generally end up covered in mud. But I'm starting to love the place, exploding holds, plentiful rubble, mud and all. Even with all that, there is something impressive and sort of beautiful about the place. I also found out as that Nick had been in a band that did a Peel Session in the past and in another band with a certain Mr J Cocker! I thought he was pretty cool chap already for bolting hundreds of sport climbs, many of which are actually easy enough for me to do. But now I find out he is basically musical royalty, or at least Sheffield musical royalty - so just even cooler!


OP TobyA 31 Oct 2021
In reply to all:

I'm a bit disappointed there are no further reports of climbing. Come on UKC! Do your stuff.

You can see people have been getting out and ticking routes even today (the weather has been pretty horrible where I am) in the logbooks: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/latest_ascents.php?sorting=0 

From Diabeg in the North to the Canaries down in the south, via dry tooling in Masson Lees ( )! Surely there are some good stories in there somewhere?

 tlouth7 01 Nov 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Was on holiday last week so no rock climbs, but I did do a loop over Goat Fell on Arran that I would highly recommend. Reasonably quick, some nice scrambling on the ridge, and great views.

 Alex Riley 01 Nov 2021
In reply to tlouth7:

Some chilled sport climbing at  Bodychain got slightly less chilled after this...


 Dave Garnett 01 Nov 2021
In reply to TobyA:

> I'm a bit disappointed there are no further reports of climbing. Come on UKC! Do your stuff.

Well, the big news is I managed to wobble up a couple of the V3-V5 circuit problems at Stoke on Sunday morning.  Actually not too weak, considering the complete inactivity of the last three weeks, but a bit wheezy post-Covid. 

OP TobyA 01 Nov 2021
In reply to Alex Riley:

> Some chilled sport climbing at  Bodychain got slightly less chilled after this...

Bloomin' 'eck - how did you manage to do that?

BTW, has that crag been developed really recently? I don't think I've ever even heard the name before.

OP TobyA 01 Nov 2021
In reply to tlouth7:

Scrambling is definitely "climbing" for the purpose of this thread. Sounds great!

In reply to Dave Garnett:

Glad to hear you are on the mend. I'd be up for some chilly, autumnal trad (or even sport if it is in the slate quarries again) once you are feeling recovered.

 Alex Riley 01 Nov 2021
In reply to TobyA:

It's been developed in the last few years, the correct name for it is badychain, it's in the new guidebook. 

We were moving along routes and used a lower off to put draws in the next route and the rope ran over a sharp edge. Spicy times, first time ive done it in 10 years of climbing.

 Trevers 03 Nov 2021
In reply to Alex Riley:

I climbed the incredible  Peña de Bernal via the wonderful easy classic La Bernalina (5.9). It's the biggest thing I've climbed since a brace of knee injuries/surgeries last year, apparently the world's third tallest monolith. Glorious sunshine and great views. The rock is beautiful and unique, and wonderfully grippy. Cruised up it in two and a half hours. Topped off with tacos and guayaba juice back in town later. Awesome day out.

 cragtyke 03 Nov 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Seeing as it's Wednesday and it was wet early on, we did The Last Wet Wednesday/The Big Red Jacket (VS 4c) amongst others at Lawrencefield. Didn't feel too cold for 8 deg.

In reply to TobyA:

November being my holiday month, & not travelling abroad yet again, I find myself at Tremadog. Yesterday we did Poor Man's Peuterey in the rain, which was OK but quite slippery. Today's morning downpours sent us up the Hyll Drem Girdle which was mostly dry, tho we got wet at the start & soaked at the end of P3 (abbed of as P4 was running water). The crux move at the end of P1 was reachy & damp until you lunged for the proper final hold (excellent, & dry). Hoping for some drier conditions tomorrow 

OP TobyA 07 Nov 2021
In reply to all:

Ok everyone - let's be havin' yer. Who has done what this week(end?).

Not much for me - popped out this afternoon to Higgar Tor - perhaps not the wisest venue choice in the prevailing conditions (a gale blasting onto the front of Leaning Block) but Simon wanted to get filmed falling off The Rasp (E2 5b) for a school assembly he is preparing. No, I don't understand either! Anyway, in our yelled conversation in breaks in gale, Simon decided he just go for Surform (E1 5b) today and fall off that instead as it has the same start as the Rasp. He made it up with a few rests very impressively - this upset me rather as it meant I would have to try and second! Those starting moves are beasts, and I kept popping off, unable to really feel much with fingers wooden from the cold. With a boost from our third friend present, Kev, I got started and took the first few runners out but soon enough fell off again and actually swung far enough out to not be able to get back onto the rock. I got lowered off and Si had to ab for his runners - although even that wasn't that easy involving me having to throw a second rope up to him to pull him across and in enough to be able to reach his gear! After that we scuttled around the back of leaning block and I led Paddock (HVD) which was really lovely straightforward jamming, and didn't make me hate myself.

What has everyone else been climbing?


In reply to TobyA:

Did Sit Down Wall today in foggy/light damp today - no headtorch needed, but it felt harder than previous summer ascent. Did another 3 routes on the Lower Tier - 2 listed on UKC (Autheticosis & Bespokitis), but one missing; between Artisanaria and It's Not Me there are 3 unlisted routes. The righthand one (a juggy arete/rib at 5 ish) is now known to us as The Barnsley Knee after John (from said northern bastion) made very painful contact with his when stepping up!!! Any idea as to what this route is Toby?

OP TobyA 14 Nov 2021
In reply to buxtoncoffeelover:

Partly inspired by your post Nik, I went to Hidden Yesterday with Nick T. who either did lots of the bolting and FAs, or was climbing with John Allen when he did them. Those mysterious 3 routes you found are all John Allen's so from a few years ago. The lower tier isn't really Peak District climbing at it's finest is it? But all the same it's odd that the three lines aren't on Gary G's website topos or in the UKC logbooks or in the Rockfax app. I did the one you nicknamed the Barnsley Knee. Nick couldn't remember what grade John had given it, he thought either 5+ or 6a. It went quite smoothly for me, so I suspect 5+ would be about right? Then I did the route to the left (so the middle of the three unnamed one) - Nick remembered it was 6a, it was a bit more of a fight than the first one but probably no harder than 6a. It's quite long as it goes right to the top of lower tier. The route left of that is supposedly harder - 6b+ or 6c maybe? Anyway, too hard for me so I didn't try that one! Nick thinks he has the names and grades written down somewhere so said he would update the logbook entries.

We then went over to Sit Down Buttress, and had a chat with the one other team in the whole quarry, Steve and his son John. I did Footprints in the Snow (6a+), which I thought was ace and a good fight getting into and out of the upper corner. Pretty wild exposure as you pull out onto the slab to clip the lower off! Nick did Sit Down Wall and by that point the sun had set, so time to go home. Excellent session.


1
 alan moore 14 Nov 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Yesterday I broke my personal dictum of never wasting time on central-belt outcrops. But the late autumn sun shone from a cloudless sky and I didn't have time for anything else, so dragged myself off to Jennys Lum which sits high on the Western rim of the Campsies.

The walk in was steep and soggy but I eventually found the crag in a little hollow, way above the gentle hum of suburb village life.

The centrepiece of the crag is a clean arete,  plum vertical and forming dry streak amongst the lichen and sprinkling waterfalls. It was strenuous enough, spectacular even, and took a couple of tries but I was soon sat at the bottom, pleased to have done a route and quietly soaking up the sun.

An local chap came up the slope to see what I was up to and we had a nice walk over the moor to Slackdhu talking climbing all the way.

A great outing. Proper soul food.

Post edited at 18:38
In reply to TobyA:

Thanks for that Toby. I look forward to Mr T's updates 

OP TobyA 14 Nov 2021
In reply to alan moore:

> Yesterday I broke my personal dictum of never wasting time on central-belt outcrops. But the late autumn sun shone from a cloudless sky and I didn't have time for anything else, so dragged myself off to Jennys Lum which sits high on the Western rim of the Campsies.

Does anything on the Campsies really count as central belt cragging? I've not been to Jenny's Lum myself, but even the Whangie and Craigmore always felt quite different from Auchinstarry, Ratho (pre-wall), Rosyth and a few other dolerite quarries I frequented a long time ago! Anything up on the Campsies must be virtually a mountain route!

 alan moore 15 Nov 2021
In reply to TobyA:

I know what you are saying, but for me, they have all shared the same elements of bitter disappointment: often out of condition, surprisingly slow to dry, unreliable rock, and nonsensical stars and grades.

But every once in a while you do hit a little gem...

 Doug 15 Nov 2021

Not really climbing but on Sunday I 'climbed' my first hill for months - the Puy de Manse. The summit's only 300m above the car park but its an isolated hill between the southern Ecrin & the Devoluy so on a clear day has great views. Unfortunately yesterday the only real views were southwestwards towards Gap & Ceüse and the damp wind and swirling mist on the top reminded me of being back in Scotland. But at last I feel I'm more or less over the various health issues that have plagued me since spring.

 wercat 15 Nov 2021
In reply to Doug:

Great Gable by the most solitary way up I could find, for the 11am act of remembrance

 midgen 15 Nov 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Drove to  Ogwen saturday evening. Up before sunrise to get up Tryfan. The plan was to tackle a grade 2 or 3 route up the East face but everything was still pretty wet so opted for Little and North Gully. Not the greatest idea as it was damp and slimy, but gave us an opportunity to practice our ropework and we pitched up the initial steeper sections. No breeze at all, and crystal clear skies, sea views both North and SW. Lovely day. Went up Bristly Ridge, dodging the massive turd someone left on the first ledge (seriously?). Up to Glyder Fach and took in the views, before trudging down Y Gribin and arriving at A5 in the dark. 

Great day, but my knees aren't really up to scrambles that long anymore, think next time we'll do some more intense/shorter days up the climbing routes and back down again, rather than a big loop!


 steveriley 15 Nov 2021
In reply to midgen:

Went up Bristly Ridge, dodging the massive turd someone left on the first ledge (seriously?). 

> Lovely day. Went up Bristly Ridge, dodging the massive turd someone left on the first ledge (seriously?).

How odd, same thing happened to me a few years ago, wonder there's a serial soiler?

Cracking day bouldering on Blackstone Edge for me, beautiful light.

 C Witter 15 Nov 2021
In reply to TobyA:

A Saturday in Eskdale with friends I've been missing since I moved from Lancaster to Huddersfield at the end of September. Picked the wrong crag, having done that thing where you really want to climb X, so you ignore the aspect, conditions, etc. All the cracks were dank and slippery, so left the routes that will go OS for another day and ended up having a relaxed day top-roping some hard granite... I've one project at my top grade, now, to go back for asap; and one very bold and tenuous futuristic "project" well above my paygrade for "another day". Sore fingertips still, especially a little finger I sliced open on a crystal after my hand fired off a crimp.

Sunday, a pleasant walk in the morning sun up Clougha before driving home, feeling a bit blue to leave everyone behind.

 neilh 15 Nov 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Had a pleasant day there on Sunday.There was only 1 other team there, like you on Saturday. Unreal.Everywhere seemed quiet.

OP TobyA 15 Nov 2021
In reply to neilh:

A quick bit of cyber stalking of your logbook and I see you're another person like me to not do Spirit of Ecstasy cleanly! We could start a club, or more positively, if you want another redpoint session on it at some point, shoot me a message as I should try again as well, so would be up for it.

 neilh 15 Nov 2021
In reply to TobyA:

I will bear that in mind! LOL> There was a horizontal break near the half way point that was greasy and wet.Put me right off.Never knew it was a modern classic. The polish is getting to Stoney propostions now.

 Oldbro3 16 Nov 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Couple of 5a's at Trevor Quarry in the sun with me bro 👌

OP TobyA 21 Nov 2021
In reply to Oldbro3:

Who has been out this weekend or at some point last week? In fact, to keep it inclusive, who has been in this weekend or at some point last week? Indoor climbing is still climbing!

This morning was cloudless and sunny in the Peak, but bloomin' cold. My friends only had the morning to climb, so to avoid freezing my fingers and falling off the Rasp at Higgar Tor AGAIN, which was Simon's idea, I suggested we go to Winnats Pass and climb Elbow Ridge (D) and Matterhorn Ridge (VD). A pretty photo of them in the UKC galleries shows them catching glorious "first light" so I thought they might warm up a bit. Well, it turns out they don't catch first light at this time of year, so despite me getting there a bit late at 8 am, it was still baltic as we did Elbow first. We only got some sunshine pulling out onto the "summit" (the field at top complete with sheep). Matterhorn Ridge was climbed in the sun, although it still wasn't exactly warm. I think Matterhorn has probably the better climbing on it and better rock, but for overall line and more continuous scrambling Elbow is the better route. Neither runners or belays are easy to fine, so taking it steady is the main thing!


 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 21 Nov 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Tuesday, Arhi - hot so just a quick three

Thursday - Pocket Wall - better temperature so five up to 5c

Friday/Saturday - blowing a (cold) gale

Sunday, Sea Breeze - hot again - a pleasant five up to 5c

Chris


 C Witter 21 Nov 2021
In reply to TobyA:

- Bouldering Monday with my partner at Freeklime.
- A sneak peek of Honley Quarry on Tuesday... Great looking rock, but full of brambles and with a housing estate being built at the top.
- First trip to Almscliff on Wednesday! Some good crack practice, e.g. on The Traditional Climb (VS 4c), which was delightful.
- A bit of indoor climbing at Freeklime on Friday... training
- Sunday: my first hike in the Peak (well... c.250m of ascent) going up Black Hill from Crowden. Was meant to be climbing in the Lakes, but the plan didn't come together. Lovely to be out, though, exploring a new place. Met a very brave and aggressive grouse on top of Ladlow!

OP TobyA 21 Nov 2021
In reply to C Witter:

> - Sunday: my first hike in the Peak (well... c.250m of ascent) going up Black Hill from Crowden. Was meant to be climbing in the Lakes, but the plan didn't come together. Lovely to be out, though, exploring a new place. Met a very brave and aggressive grouse on top of Ladlow!

Did you solo a cheeky mod as you went past Laddow? If you go south from the same point you can do Wildboar Clough (Summer) (Grade-2) which is fun, the wonder along the plateau edge and scramble down via  Shining Clough. I did that circuit a few weeks back, and it's a nice afternoon out.

 midgen 21 Nov 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Wasn't planning to get out today, but the weather was too nice. My other half and I have a deal where she's having a good go at getting into climbing, and I'm giving trail running a proper go. 

Picked up some lunch from the bakery in Hathersage, then up to the plantation. Walked along until we found what looked like a straightforward diff. Spent a while going over belaying and placing/removing gear, then started up. Turns out Ladder Corner is a pretty awful awkward first route. I stripped the skin off my knuckles on the way up and bled everywhere at the belay...on the plus side, she made it up, and even pretended to smile about it.

Ticked her first outdoor climb, first trad climb, and first gritstone climb.....AND got to learn a new word...'thrutching', so a good day if you ask me.

Then back to the van to change gear and go for a run along the edge, which was pretty nice, although on the way we came across someone who had just decked off the top of The Groper?, conscious and moving all limbs though, hope you're doing ok whoever that was.

 Michael Hood 22 Nov 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Night orienteering on Saturday so legs a bit tired; decided on shorter walk on Sunday than originally planned.

Went up Brunt Knott summit (summit) and other "summits" in that area. Not many more Wainwright Outlying Fells to do now (must finish them before the bracken returns next year, then back to higher stuff).

Blue skies but very, very windy; sunglasses kept it out of my eyes. Nice views considering height and position.

Clear skies as it got dark meant lovely view of Jupiter, Saturn and Venus all in diagonal line on the drive home.

Not sure I'll be climbing (rather than walking) outside again this year, will have to be nice enough so that I don't get white finger.

Post edited at 08:32
cb294 22 Nov 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Aggenstein, Tannheim Alps (a hike, not a climb...). Turned around a few m below the summit as we were running late.

CB

 C Witter 22 Nov 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Ha! No, I should have. We set off a bit late, though, so were trying to keep up a good pace and get down before dark. I can't say that Laddow looked very impressive, but perhaps you don't see the best lines from the side/above. It occurred to me that it would be a good run. The plan next time is to go south from Crowden, so I'll check out the scramble(s) you mention - thanks for the tips!

Post edited at 09:00
OP TobyA 22 Nov 2021
In reply to midgen:

> Then back to the van to change gear and go for a run along the edge, which was pretty nice, although on the way we came across someone who had just decked off the top of The Groper?, conscious and moving all limbs though, hope you're doing ok whoever that was.

I saw the report on Edale MRT's facebook feed. Sounded nasty but they got him packed up and down to the ambulance and off to hospital, so get well soon to the unfortunate climber!

 MeMeMe 22 Nov 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Not really expecting to get any climbing in this time of year but Sunday was un-seasonally dry and sunny so ended up at Castle Rock thinking it might catch the sun. Unfortunately it didn't catch the sun as much as expected and it was bloody freezing and I struggled to keep my hands from going completely numb on the otherwise reasonably pleasant Via Media (S 4a).

Tempted to just sack it off but instead moved round the corner of the crag a bit to catch the sun and did a couple of lovely slabby routes Slab Climb (HS 4a) and Wall Climb (HS 4a).


In reply to TobyA:

We DIDN'T climb anything at Malham on Sunday!! Went for the trad routes on the right wing, but freezing wind & routes in the shade (combined with cowardice!!) sent us scuttling off to Giggleswick South for a few easier challenges

 BenSends 22 Nov 2021
In reply to TobyA:

I made my first trip to Widdop and really enjoyed it. The wind was relentless but managed to get my way up Splashdown. My top out was somewhat embarrassing and I resembled a slug trying to avoid a salt pot. If you'd like to laugh at me here it is:  youtube.com/watch?v=fopz_yfbeBs&

Really enjoyed the crag though and will 100% be back, beautiful setting.

 deacondeacon 22 Nov 2021
In reply to BenSends:

Went to Shining Cliff (not Clough) and had a brilliant day! Climbed about 5 routes each, including our last route in the dark. The crag is in the middle of nowhere, amongst a commune owned forest, and has a picnic area under the crag. A lovely family turned up to celebrate an 8 year olds birthday with a bonfire and bbq. We ended up getting some bbq, some birthday cake and we even joined in singing Happy Birthday 🙂

The crag was really sheltered too, and even climbed a couple of routes in a tshirt!

Post edited at 16:17
 steveriley 25 Nov 2021
In reply to TobyA:

We had a peek at Silverdale Sea Cliffs. Tiny little sport routes, but some midget gems. Some good rock and generously bolted, "that would be great if it was twice as long" I thought. Apart from where I was goosed by the top that is.

OP TobyA 28 Nov 2021
In reply to steveriley:

Anyone got out this weekend? I started off my winter account with a jaunt up Crib Lem (II 2) on Carnedd Dafydd today. A bit murky once up on the spur but well frozen turf and even dribbles of ice all over the place made up for a lack of views. Far more snow at home on the edge of the Peak at 220 mtrs than at 1000 mtrs in Wales though!


 deacondeacon 28 Nov 2021
In reply to TobyA:

New Mills saved the day again with dry trad routes, sport routes and bouldering. 

Mate fell off after all the hard climbing on Honcho (E4), but will defo get it next time. I climbed a no star HVS, followed by a no star E2, as I've done most things at the crag that stay dry. 

Just chuffed to get out tbh, on a day like today. Was a proper laugh all day 🙂

 steveriley 28 Nov 2021
In reply to TobyA:
Figured Crag Y Longridge might be a good option. The steady snow and sword of Damocles icicles hanging from the lip meant I wasn’t really feeling it. Absolutely top drawer plan B with a fell run in the Bowland hills nearby. Beautiful light and a real tonic https://www.instagram.com/p/CW1ZOkiI2JJ/?utm_medium=copy_link

 C Witter 01 Dec 2021
In reply to TobyA:

No climbing at the weekend, but a fair bit in the week! On Monday I got in a first visit to Rivelin and climbed in a t-shirt! Tuesday I went to Gardoms and climbed a clutch of VSs, enjoying the chance to keep practising jamming. Thursday I went for a very cold bouldering session at Blackstone Edge and got a bunch of 6Bs done, including two of quality. It was so cold, though, that I was actually struggling a bit to keep feeling in my toes. 

At the weekend I saw some family and took them to Dove Stones. It was one of those silly decisions you make under the pressure of trying to please other people, because the driving on the way home along snowed up roads was very intense! I did laugh, though, at what appeared to be a student mountaineering club bouldering outing at Wimberry! They were walking around with mats looking very desolate, perhaps having persuaded themselves that it'd be perfect "snowballing" conditions, only to find the cold, damp reality did not match up to the Instagram fantasy.

1
 Slackboot 01 Dec 2021
In reply to TobyA:

This is a great thread! Surely back to the core of what UKC should be all about. It is heartwarming to see so many of you all getting out there and cragging! I really enjoy reading about everyone's exploits and looking at the photo's. Well done all for making the effort despite the weather.

 DaveHK 01 Dec 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Fionn Bheinn on Sunday. A pretty unimpressive crag but a nice day out and a mellow start to the season.


OP TobyA 01 Dec 2021
In reply to DaveHK:

> Fionn Bheinn on Sunday.

I don't even know what area that is without googling! Where abouts is it? The weather looks much nicer than we had in Wales though.

 DaveHK 01 Dec 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Fannichs outlier above Achnasheen. The weather was pretty decent all weekend up here, I had a nice wee trot around Cul Beag on Saturday too. 

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/fionn_bheinn-13082/

Post edited at 20:00

OP TobyA 06 Dec 2021
In reply to all:

Anyone got out last weekend or week? 

I made a pretty early start on Sunday and drove up to the Lakes. Walking up by 9am, a couple of routes done on Brown Cove Crag in very snowy conditions, although I went for reasonably rocky routes where you didn't need to swing for turf. Over to the top of Helvellyn to not admire the view - it was in the cloud - and back down and driving home by mid afternoon in order to be home for tea with the family. Once just below the cloud, the view were fantastic - I could see east over to snowy looking Cross Fell and the north Pennines and across the Solway Firth to Dumfries, or is it Galloway? Anyway, the hills there didn't look snowy.

Three graded winter routes done now and its only early December - happy with that! Also getting to try some UKC review items out in proper mountain weather, so keeping the bosses at UKC Towers (they don't really have a tower) happy.  


 PaulJepson 06 Dec 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Went to  Trehafod on Sunday. The second consecutive time I've driven into the valleys with pretty low expectations, to a crag which has basically had no logged ascents in the past 6 months. With it being so close to the road (a 10m approach), there MUST be something wrong with it?!

The second consecutive time I've been pleasantly surprised by the routes. Short, punchy hard sandstone, about 15m high and all climbing. All the roads on the way were still wet from a day of rain on Saturday but the crag was bone-dry and facing right into the sun. I even climbed in a tshirt! Did a couple of stiff 6a+s and a funny HVS offwidth, which was worth taking the cams for. We saw a bunch of Buzzards, a Red Kite and a Yellow Wagtail dancing around the crag; coupled with a view down the valley that juxtaposed mountain and old industry. There's something about some of those valleys crags that you don't get anywhere else, and it's not just the graffiti and fly-tipping. 

I really enjoy going to these obscure places where you're unlikely to see any other climbers. The alternative is queueing at Brean or climbing the same routes for the 5th time at Wyndcliff Quarry. 

For reference, the other recent crag we visited was  Trebanog, where we climbed some well-protected and exciting VS/HVS routes that wouldn't be out of place in the Peak. 

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 06 Dec 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Visited what is supposed to be Cyprus's best-developed crags - the Droushia/Ineia Area, and was surprised to find it deserted on a Saturday. Just did a quick three as a sampler - good rock and great spot - we will be back,

Chris


 alan moore 06 Dec 2021
In reply to PaulJepson:

> For reference, the other recent crag we visited was  Trebanog, where we climbed some well-protected and exciting VS/HVS routes that wouldn't be out of place in the Peak. 

I loved Trebanog, made several visits there, usually in winter to escape the muck in the Wye Valley.

 You're right though, at really as the same ambience, charisma, soul even, as some of the gritstone edges.

 Suncream 06 Dec 2021
In reply to TobyA:

After getting frostbite on a toe two weeks ago I finally left my flat yesterday and attempted to climb some very thin and soft ice. The toe seemed fine, though we didn't get very high on the climb. I probably shouldn't push it, if it gets cold again it could seriously harm the healing process, but I just can't resist.

 john arran 06 Dec 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Not quite this weekend, but just before, I managed to redpoint what is probably my hardest new sport route to date: a fantastic route that's an 8a+ extension to a 7c+ I did a couple of weeks ago. Both proper 3-star climbing and welcome additions to the ever growing list of routes within walking distance 🙂.

Just one more, 8a-ish, route to complete and then I'll be forced to develop a whole new sector!

OP TobyA 06 Dec 2021
In reply to Suncream:

Did your toe go black and have proper tissue damage? Maybe not if you could climb two weeks later. If it went waxy white then alarmingly pink afterwards (as happened to me) be really careful, it might seem ok but I found that toe was more sensitive to the cold for some years after! Take it easy and don't lace your boots too tight!

OP TobyA 06 Dec 2021
In reply to alan moore and Paul:

I think I'm going to need to plan a visit to the South Wales Valleys to climb sometime. I know loads of places have been developed but it is a total blank on my mental climbing map! Cheers for the inspiration.

 PaulJepson 06 Dec 2021
In reply to TobyA:

If you're into the trad then there are better locations in South Wales (Gower, Ogmore, etc.) but there is a lot of good sport in the 5s, 6s and 7s in the valleys. The quarried sandstone is very similar to grit in appearance but climbs quite differently than quarried grit. It tends to be vertical or slabby with small but very positive edges. Rewards a long reach and strong fingers often! 

OP TobyA 06 Dec 2021
In reply to PaulJepson:

I've done a little bit of trad on the Gower - just the classic at Three Cliffs Bay, Scavenger (VS 4c) and the one next to it across the arch. I've also done a bit at Box Bay (?) a few years ago now, but its at Porthcawl IIRC? Nice spots anyway, but actually South Wales generally is a part of the country I don't know well at all. Perhaps some sandstone sport in Valleys and then along to do some new sport on the Gower also... 

 BusyLizzie 07 Dec 2021
In reply to C Witter:

> - Met a very brave and aggressive grouse on top of Ladlow!

I met that grouse a few weeks ago, just above Ladlow Rocks. He stood in front of me and gave me a right talking-to for several minutes, and eventually I had to say look, sorry chum, I really am coming this way, and edged past him very respectfully. I got a picture and a little video but they won't upload.

OP TobyA 07 Dec 2021
In reply to BusyLizzie:

LOL. It's getting well off the weekend climbing theme, but some years back when I still lived in Finland I was mountain biking on a single track in some forest right on the very edge of Helsinki and had to brake abruptly because there was a badger stood in the middle of the track. It just stood there glowering (if badgers do glower) at me, looking more angry and annoyed than bothered by me. It actually took a few steps towards me, leading me to get off my bike and put my bike across the trails between me and the badger! I yelled something like "move badger!" to little effect, I might have even tried saying it again, but in Finnish, just to be on the safe side, but still it just stood there glowering at me. I started looking for a log on the floor or wondering if I could get my reasonably chunky bike pump out of my Camelbak as it genuinely felt like I might need to fight a badger! I had recently listened to a superb episode of I think it was This American Life that had a terrifying story about someone being attacked by a seemingly fearless and homicidal raccoon that, after the poor guy had finally clubbed to death, turned out to have rabies - so I was searching in my memory of stories of rabies in Finland, and whether badgers can get it. Anyway, only after I threw a stick towards the badger did it turn, snuffle off and cede the path to me.

 C Witter 07 Dec 2021
In reply to BusyLizzie:

Ha! Great I love grouse. They've become mythological to me...

...Long ago, men involved in the vicious slave trade accrued vast wealth, which they used to build shooting estates. In the process, they forced common people off the land, trapped and killed predators and destroyed the biodiversity of these places, releasing CO2 stored in the peat into our atmosphere. Now, the grouse atop the moor are channeling the spirits of all the oppressed, gobbling and barking at us in defiance: no pasarán!

 C Witter 07 Dec 2021
In reply to TobyA:

> I might have even tried saying it again, but in Finnish, just to be on the safe side...

😂

 MrRiley 07 Dec 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Top day on a total sandbag in great conditions - Judas Priest, Lochnagar

http://www.mistymountainhop.net/2021/12/hell-bent-for-winter-on-judas-pries... 

 BusyLizzie 07 Dec 2021
In reply to C Witter:

I love that idea! If I meet that grouse again I shall look at him with new understanding.

 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 09 Dec 2021

In reply to Xondron Bala:

> Shame you didn't get to try Gerakopetra, about 5 mins walk further down the track.  Similar to Konefti, but at least 2x the size including a big overhang stuffed with jugs.

We have another few weeks left and will be back up there, just went for a quick look around last weekend 

Chris

OP TobyA 19 Dec 2021
In reply to Chris Craggs:

Anyone out climbing this weekend? I didn't manage anything last weekend having been poorly during the week so forgot about this post, but lets see if we can get it going again.

This morning I was up on Kinder - hiked and scrambled up on to the northern edges - up one easy scramble and down another, all very green and damp feeling. No cloud inversion, but a big temperature inversion with a hard frost down in the valley and quite pleasant up on the plateau in the sunshine. At midday I was back by the old Snake Inn (where I had parked) it was still cloudless but within a mile going back eastwards I was going into low cloud and mist. The sun was out again by Bamford village but I could see clouds up towards Stanage and Bamford Edge. I was meeting a mate to climb, so we decided to try Moss Rake - Luke doesn't live so far from there and said it was gorgeous at home. But by the time we both got to the parking we were in cloud again. We walked in in mist thinking we'd do nothing as the rock would be wet, but it annoyingly wasn't - so we had to have a go. We missed the turning for the Library in the mist, so ended up trying the easiest route on the Upper Tier, which is 6a+ - almost my top grade for onsighting. So in the mist, cold and with no warm up I unsurprisingly didn't onsight it, but did manage it with a couple of rests. Another one to go back to redpoint properly! The limestone felt really quite grippy even in the mist. Grit seems to be more affected by moisture in the air, not sure why that would be though.


 wbo2 19 Dec 2021
In reply to TobyA: nothing today, but having seen plenty of dry rock when out for a walk ill be going bouldering tomorrow 

 Alex Riley 20 Dec 2021
In reply to wbo2:

Climbed in a t shirt all day in the moelwyns on Saturday, got home to my wife having contractions. Baby arrived late last night, pretty tired now!

 Doug 20 Dec 2021
In reply to TobyA:

No climbing but my first lift served downhill skiing for 2 years on Saturday morning plus some XC skiing on Saturday afternoon & Sunday morning.  Weather & snow looks like it'll stay good for a few days as well

 peter.herd 20 Dec 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Murdoch and I climbed The Needle (E1 5b) on Saturday. This blog might provide folk with some entertainment. 

https://peterherd.co.uk/index.php/2021/12/20/1042-hpa/?et_fb=1&PageSpee...

 steveriley 20 Dec 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Happy to trick The Cornflake (f6C+) into submission at Apparent North. Tried it a couple of times and found pulling on that tiny hold a nuisance. Had to nip across to Sheffield for an errand and the diversion to Stanage was compelling. Across Edale the conditions were stunning, with mist swirling down from the tops, further East it was distinctly close and clagged in. Felt almost embarrassed strapping on the pad but still worth a little look to see if anything was dry. Always good to be in the high places anyway. Dry! Started unpromisingly with wooden progress and flash pump on the warm ups. Time for a proper go, persisting with previous beta, rather than the flashy ‘Cornflick’ variant. Missed the little recessed crimp a few times, landing the wrong spot more than once. Surprised myself almost hitting it well on the deadpoint. There’s a proper edge! Then it became when not if. Couple more goes balancing momentum with recovery (it’s only 2 moves!). Sneaky change of shoes to trick it into submission and success! It’s really not a footwork dependent problem. Brief little chat with a couple of equally mellow climbers on the Gripple wall above and off for my belated errand. Happy to finish that and if that’s the last climb of the year I’m ok with that 😁

 Graeme Hammond 20 Dec 2021
In reply to peter.herd:

Was looking at the mountain conditions pages yesterday and spotted you accent in the list was mighty impressed by your effort!

 steveb2006 20 Dec 2021
In reply to peter.herd:

> Murdoch and I climbed The Needle (E1 5b) on Saturday.

Thats pretty impressive!

 steveb2006 20 Dec 2021
In reply to TobyA:

>up on Kinder - .... No cloud inversion, 

Hi Toby

Up on Kinder a bit later than you (on Sunday) - initially no cloud at all on N side (above Rowlee) - mist crept round and by afternoon there was a tremendous inversion all around lapping at plateau edges - the Mam Tor ridge disappeared too. Great walking and views.

Not quiet weekend but a good session at Harland Edge on Friday.

Steve (from Sitdown Buttess in November )

OP TobyA 20 Dec 2021
In reply to steveb2006:

Hi Steve! Interesting - maybe I should have stayed up on Kinder a bit longer! I thought I was being efficient and alpine like - leaving the house at 7 am! Have you got photos of the inversion?

It's weeks as well weekends so Friday is fine! I did one F3+ at Harland back at the end of summer. We came in across the moor from the behind the edge, past the ancient grave site or whatever it is. A fairly epic walk with a four year old and bracken at my waist to chest height - well over his head! I follow the guidebook approach next time.

 steveb2006 21 Dec 2021
In reply to TobyA:

Toby, I added a couple of photos to the Peak Conditions thread .

Harland Edge really worth avoiding from late May to early November due to the bracken. I usually approach from SE end (very limited parking) and very small indistinct path - maybe tricky to find. Nice place.

Ps also managed to get up to Whitestones Cliffe (N Yorkshire) on 15th (got a bit cool when wind picked up) and (the much nearer to me) Stone Edge 16th  

Steve


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