UKH

Shameless request here for what gear is needed for the upper crux of Wall of Horrors at Almscliff.....

Keen to get on it this Summer when over for a short trip and would love to know what size cams are needed. Guidebook says 'large cams' which is a bit vague, so any beta please?

Thanks!

An old school Friend 4 is the one. I used a quadcam 3.8 (!) that I borrowed which fitted fine as well. 
 

a blue Camalot or the next biggest one would fine as well.

I remember a couple of large solid stem friends, probably 3 and 4.

Have fun.

SD.

Great, thanks for the tips!

The crucial gear for the upper wall is a rock 4 in a key hole slot. 

the large gear is for the bottom of the vertical crack after the boulder problem crux not the upper one. Think i used a silver dragon 6/ or wild country friend 4, think blue cam would be too small until a bit higher up the crack but it wouldn't be much bolder. After that you reach a horizontal break that takes a variety of gear for the upper crux, think large cam options on the left (blue cam?) through to green cam on the right or wires but my memory is a bit hazy.

you could watch this if you want some more beta  youtube.com/watch?v=pHyJUR6C7a4&

Why not just ab down it first?

Coz he wants to log it as an onsight! 

Maybe because if he doesn't have the necessary gear he will have to come back a  different day.

I seem to remember inserting a couple of pebbles into a pocket and threading with shoelace.

Bomber. You'll be fine.

Needs to get themselves the James Pearson book of climbing terminology. They'll be fine with that. 

Cant believe that got down votes !

No sense of humour  some people.

The thought I might have even remotely irked a few of them gives me a warm fuzzy feeling inside