Visiting Peak District in October from US. Beta please

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Troy T 25 May 2022

I'll be visiting the UK with my wife for a week in October.  I would be remiss to call my self a trad climber if I didn't sample the Gritstone while I am there.  Unfortunately I'll only have about 3 or 4  days to do this.

I am researching places to stay with good, close access to quality routes.  I will not have a car and would use public transportation.

Would Baslow be a good place to set up? Recommendations please.

How are easy would it be to find a partner on a weekday?  I would only be able to bring a harness and shoes.  It would be cool to meet new friends and be able to reciprocate if you ever came to visit South West Colorado.  My other option would be to hire a guide...

I appreciate any help and apologize if this topic has been beaten to death.

Troy

1
 dominic o 25 May 2022
In reply to Troy T:

Hi Troy, and welcome (in due course) to The Peak District! We've climbed extensively in the US including in Colorado, and always enjoyed great hospitality, so I hope you have the same experience on your visit.

You might want to think about Hathersage as a base - on a rail route from Manchester and Sheffield, and you can walk to a number of crags notably Stanage and Millstone.

In terms of partners, you've got a good chance if you post on here. If you happen to be visiting in the first week of October I'd be happy to give you a tour, but I'm likely to be away for the rest of the month.

Have a great visit! Cheers, Dom 

In reply to Troy T:

Much like Dominic I'd say it's pretty hard to beat Hathersage, as it's well connected, blessed with a whole host of local amenities, and within walking distance of some of the area's finest crags.

When it comes to partners my first suggest would be UKC (obviously), but if you're not having any luck here then it'd be worth trying the Peak District Trad Climbing - lifts / partners / conditions Facebook Group.

If I'm around and available I'd love to get out, but if not you're more than welcome to borrow a rack and ropes throughout your stay.

 Holdtickler 25 May 2022
In reply to Troy T:

Baslow isn't a bad base choice. It has a handful of crags within walking distance but some of them are a bit condition dependant (Chatsworth and Gardoms) especially in the Autumn when there can be a lot of rain. Curbar and Froggatt are a bit further away but they are the most extensive crags in that area.

Hathersage may be worth looking at as a base as it is close to a lot of extensive crags on foot and a lot of variety. To make the most of it, choose crags to suit the conditions. The higher crags like Stanage, Burbage N etc tend to dry out quickly but can also be colder and more exposed to the weather. More sheltered places like Lawrencefield will be the opposite. 

I doubt you'll struggle to find partners as it's a popular area with big cities nearby. There's a partner finding section on this forum. There's also a wealth of bouldering all around that area. 

 Moacs 25 May 2022
In reply to Troy T:

> I'll be visiting the UK with my wife for a week in October.  I would be remiss to call my self a trad climber if I didn't sample the climbing in north Wales while I am there.  Unfortunately I'll only have about 3 or 4  days to do this.

You made a typo.  3-4 days in the UK?  Not grit.  You'll say "Nice, but really?  That much fuss?"

Sea cliffs or the spiritual home of trad climbing.

39
OP Troy T 25 May 2022

This is great beta. Thanks all.  I'll look into Hathersage.  If anyone is keen to partner up, I'd happily buy the beers after. It would be around 11-14 of October.

The sea cliffs look amazing, but probably would have to wait until next time.  

Some of my most memorable climbing days have been head pointing or onsighting techy trad and I have to pay homage to where it all began.

Would a techy shoe like Otaki be a good choice or something softer like a Anasazi?

Troy

 mrphilipoldham 25 May 2022
In reply to Troy T:

October (as with any month in the Peak District, really!) can be very hit and miss with the weather so you could end up booking a few days in or around Hathersage and end up being deluged for the duration whilst missing out on clear blue skies further north in Yorkshire. The best advice, if not most practical, would be to book accommodation as late as possible and be flexible. 

That said if you want or need to book as soon as possible then Hathersage is probably the go to option. 

 mrjonathanr 25 May 2022
In reply to Troy T:

I’d go to Hathersage, you can walk to Stanage and Millstone, Burbage North and South and Higgar Tor are a long walk (>1hr) or bus ride away. If you look for partners here and on ukbouldering, I’m sure you’ll find knowledgeable people who will be happy to show you round.

otakis are good shoes for quarried grit but most people prefer something softer on natural grit.

October is a really good choice of month for grit.

Hope you have a great time!

 Duncan Bourne 25 May 2022
In reply to Troy T:

Hathersage is very central. Good for grit and if you feel the insane urge for something longer and more polished you are not too far from Stoney Middleton Limestone

 PaulJepson 25 May 2022
In reply to Troy T:

North Lees campsite is about 10 mins walk to Stanage. You could spread yourself more thinly and travel around other edges of course but realistically, Stanage is the best crag on grit. You could spend a day a high neb, a day at plantation, 2 days at popular and barely scratch the surface. 

 Kozma 26 May 2022
In reply to Troy T:

Hey Troy, I agree with all the advice here. Hathersage is probably your best bet as it's got tons nearby. Whether it's walking or by bus/train, there's loads you can access.

We often go to Stanage, Burbage and Rivelin. If you're wanting any help or just someone to climb with, give me a message/email and we'll be happy to head out with you. Me and my friends all have racks and ropes, so you'll not need any gear. Plus, we'd be happy to give lifts!

In reply to Troy T:

As other have said, Hathersage is probably your best bet for location.  The climbing at Millstone Edge is great so don't spend every day at Stanage.  Let us know what sort of grades you are aiming for and we can suggest some stand out routes for you to enjoy.

OP Troy T 27 May 2022

Again thanks all for the input.  Sounds like Hathersage it is.  I am very excited. I will wait to book weather dependent. 

As far as grades (which I am obviously confused) from referencing a conversion table, I guess I tend to enjoy climbing the most in the HVS to E5 range.  

My wife doesn't climb much but she's very into vegan food.  Does anyone have beta on good vegan restaurants?

Troy

 PaulJepson 27 May 2022
In reply to Troy T:

My American friend seems to think we are very well-catered for with regards to vegan and veggie stuff in this country. You can probably get a good option in most places. He was astounded that the convenience store meal deals had vegan sandwiches. 

In reply to Troy T:

> As far as grades (which I am obviously confused) from referencing a conversion table, I guess I tend to enjoy climbing the most in the HVS to E5 range.  

Confusion regarding grading is an essential part of the UK climbing experience

In reply to Troy T:

Sin Carne Cantina in Matlock Bath serves excellent vegan food (nothing to avoid) & you can have a day on High Tor at the same time with a fantastic array of routes from HVS to E6

 Jimp97 27 May 2022
In reply to buxtoncoffeelover:

If he does decide to have a day around Matlock I would be tempted to visit Black Rocks and Cratcliffe as there are some quality routes between HVS and E5...

In reply to Troy T: 

> My wife doesn't climb much but she's very into vegan food.  Does anyone have beta on good vegan restaurants?

You'd probably have to head into Sheffield for an outright vegan restaurant, but there's a nice places to eat out in/around Hathersage including Coleman's Deli for lunch, then The Bank House and The George for dinner (I'm veggie and each of these usually has a few veggie/vegan options).

Hopefully I'll be around/about when you're over, as it'd be great to go some of the places mentioned within this thread.

 olddirtydoggy 27 May 2022
In reply to Troy T:

October can be a great month to go on grit but it can be a bit cold and wet if you get unlucky. We often go to Lawrencefield if the weather is a bit cold as it is somewhat sheltered until you top out. HVS is a respectable but if you're climbing up to E5 then well done, that's quite a high grade. Hope you have a great trip, call us if you are stuck for a partner on the lower end of your possible grades. Most of us have guidebooks to the local areas but the Rockfax app is excellent if you want a temp topo guide to the local delights.

 Kevster 27 May 2022
In reply to Troy T:

HVS to E5 covers a whole lot of ground. 

You may like to add or examine what you want when it gets to route choice. Got to say I'd suggest a trip to millstone at those grades. 

As grit goes is as viewed from below, a bit longer than some other crags. And quality at the range. 

And maybe importantly... If you choose wisely (cracks) then the gear is good enough that if you bite off too much it isn't so unpalatable to fall. 

Grit isnt the only rock out there. Who ever suggested high tor is also a good suggestion, maybe less safe to fail on though... 

Enjoy. 

 CantClimbTom 28 May 2022
In reply to Troy T:

Just to mention Hathersage (book early!) is good as well as climbing as it has a regular bus route that can take you to Sheffield in one direction but the same route in other direction is a short(ish) trip to Castleton if you wanted a tourist trip. Hathersage has a climbing shop (outside) which might be useful. Bring a hardshell jacket when you come.

If you Google Castleton to see where I mean make sure you Google "Castleton Derbyshire" to get the one in the Hope Valley or probably you'll get the wrong one in search results as there's several different places called Castleton around the UK

I'm in wrong part of UK so can't offer help myself, but enjoy your stay!!

 Alex Riley 28 May 2022
In reply to CantClimbTom:

Contrary to the suggestions, I wouldn't bother with millstone, it will be pretty underwhelming compared to US crack destinations. 

I you want to check the area out I think that the rockfax app has free access to eastern grit currently.

 CantClimbTom 28 May 2022
In reply to Alex Riley:

> ... it will be pretty underwhelming compared to US crack destinations..

Yeah good point must be clear they need to set expectations on small and perfectly formed, not epic scale. This is better thought of as a shot of ancient/rare whisky not several pint of beer, distilled essence in small sized servings

1

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...