/ Video of Hazel Findlay on Concepcion
The rock and the route look stunning.
Adam Ondra onsighted this...
Nice film and brilliant climbing. I'm left pondering a few things...
1) How do you get down after clipping the chain on 70 mtr route! How long is her rope? Is there another bolted belay halfway up it so on a 70 or 80 mtr route you can ab off?
2) Slightly related to the above - and to the fact that the route finishes at a lower off, not at the top of the cliff, why isn't this a two pitch route rather than a 70 mtr mega pitch? I know saying a pitch should be no more than 50 mtrs is completely arbitrary, but a route of 2X length is always going to be harder than X amount of the same type of climbing just because there is more of it. Will super hard routes end up being all 80 or 100 mtrs long? And if so why not 120 mtrs etc.?
3) What kind of visas do pro-climbers have when visiting the States? Hazel seems to be there a lot. If you are a pro climber climbing in the US, are you working so would you need a working visa?
> 1) How do you get down after clipping the chain on 70 mtr route!
By making use of one of the ropes that your film crew or general entourage has rigged.
In the real world, you regularly see American climbers in places like Indian Creek trailing a thin ab rope so that they can get down from long pitches. The same climbers will be fascinated by British climbers using double ropes and not having this issue.
Sweaty palms around 8:20!
> By making use of one of the ropes that your film crew or general entourage has rigged.
Those brand ambassador and their entourages eh!?
But that means ponder 1, links to ponder 3. Does Hazel's entourage need working visas? Or does she recruit a local entourage? But I may have just answered my original ponder 3 - clearly as ambassador, Hazel has a diplomatic passport and presumably immunity to go with it. ;-)
> 2) Slightly related to the above - and to the fact that the route finishes at a lower off, not at the top of the cliff, why isn't this a two pitch route rather than a 70 mtr mega pitch? >
(a) it presumably doesn't make as much sense as a multi-pitch since there are no good ledges to break up the climbing naturally.
(b) given how sustained it looks there's going to be hard climbing directly above wherever you choose to belay, which isn't ideal.
(c) the challenge!
But presumably it's possible to keep going for more pitches above the lower off. Maybe it's much much easier and therefore doesn't make much sense.
What a great video, not often I am shouting encouragement at my laptop! Hazel is always good, doesn't do BS. Shame she isnt an ambassador for a UK company anymore, however good on her for getting the big deal.
SO know that situation, finger crack and poor/no feet, peddling and getting pumped out, can I hang on long enough on these finger jams/locks with toes clawing for some painful purchase on the crack, to get some gear in. Send for another rack, love it - like an epic version of London Wall.
4) Why does the route stop there? What sort of route stops half way? The chimney looks like great fun.
Hazel may be ambassadoring for a non-UK company (and I've no prob with that), but she IS AFAIK still ambassadoring for UK charity Urban Uprising - some lucky kids in Glasgow had a coaching session with her in the last couple of weeks!
And I reckon she should be the next Chief Scout.
Plus she is still a BMC ambassador.
Definitely next chief scout, seeing as they need to balance up for the current one who ALL bs!
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