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uk multi pitch

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 stack 11 Jan 2020

Hi all. I've been wondering which are the longest multi pitch climbs in the UK?

Thinking of a project for this year possibly.

Regards & look forward to your replies.

1
 brianjcooper 11 Jan 2020
In reply to stack:

As the name implies. 'The Long Climb' on Ben Nevis (S) 1400'

 Michael Gordon 11 Jan 2020
In reply to stack:

What grade?

 Baron Weasel 11 Jan 2020
In reply to stack:

Eagle Front is one of the longest in the lakes, but needs sustained dry weather. 

 Baron Weasel 11 Jan 2020
In reply to stack:

Twll Mawr

For sport multi pitch

Post edited at 22:27
2
 Iain Thow 11 Jan 2020
In reply to stack:

Unless you count basically horizontal things like the Cuillin Ridge or Big Ron's Stanage traverse then technically Tower Ridge on the Ben, although most people only pitch parts of it.

Some big gullies with loads of short pitches but huge overall length - Waterpipe Gully in Skye, Chasm, Clachaig Gully and Dalness Chasm in Glen Coe, Surgeon's Gully in Glen Nevis

Amongst more sustained things Minus One Direct on the Ben & Black Mamba etc on Creag an Dubh Loch must get a look in. Oh and the St John's Head routes in Orkney are 400m plus.

In reply to stack:

The long hope is probably up there.

 Mark Bannan 12 Jan 2020
In reply to stack:

South Ridge Direct on Cir Mor in Arran must be close - 395m (about 1300').

Post edited at 00:58
1
 barry donovan 12 Jan 2020
In reply to stack:

Long mountain routes like er mountaineering ? - Skye is loaded with them - up and down styli not sideways along the ridge.   

In reply to stack:

Didn't Dave Coley do a 60 pitch route on the sea cliffs recently? 

 The Ivanator 12 Jan 2020
In reply to buxtoncoffeelover: Yes, a traverse of the Boulder Ruckle at Swanage Wonderland (E1 5c)

In reply to barry donovan:

Of course, at a very low standard, but on perfect rock, there's the Dubhs Ridge on Skye. Over 3,000 feet (over 3,000 because there's an ab and descent and then another ascent to Dubh Mor)

 Sl@te Head 12 Jan 2020
In reply to stack:

> Hi all. I've been wondering which are the longest multi pitch climbs in the UK?

Tân y Ddraig (7a)

'Tân y Ddraig' in Twll Mawr is currently the longest sport climb in the UK (6 pitches 180 metres).

 henwardian 12 Jan 2020
In reply to stack:

If you just want the absolute longest (including stuff like the girdle of stanage and various other massive horizontal undertakings), have a google, I've seen this exact question several times before on UKC.

If you are looking for cool routes to get motivated for, I'd add a grade range, an accessibility range and maybe an idea of how much adversity you will put up with because several of the longest routes in the UK are on remote islands (Shetland, Orkney) that take 2 days to get to, are filled with detachable garbage, decorated with vomiting fulmars and in the mid E-grades or harder.

There are a fair number of mountain routes of around 300m or a bit more in Scotland, I'd suggest that Aaron, Shelter Stone, Ben Nevis North Face, Carn Mor and triple buttresses on Ben Eighe are some of the best places to go for long routes below E1.

The longest route is definitely not going to be the most worthwhile.

 Sean Kelly 12 Jan 2020
In reply to stack:

Western Buttress on Sron na Ciche is pretty long, a VS (Trap Face Route) and Mallory's Route at VD both about 1000ft.

Post edited at 14:39
 fmck 12 Jan 2020
In reply to Mark Bannan:

> South Ridge Direct on Cir Mor in Arran must be close - 395m (about 1300').

Close to Achir ridge which is a longer climb. 

 Lankyman 12 Jan 2020
In reply to stack:

Pilgrim's Progress VD 2,000 ft, Lingmell

 Iain Thow 12 Jan 2020
In reply to Lankyman:

A lot of walking involved in that one though, and the rock parts are nearly all just scrambling. Same for the Dubhs (although the rock's rather a lot better). Ditto for the Chasm to Crowberry (1000m), which is probably the longest (mostly) upwards route with a climbing grade (just) in a UK guidebook.

 Mark Bannan 12 Jan 2020
In reply to fmck:

> Close to Achir ridge which is a longer climb. 

... but not a multipitch route, as the OP requested.

 barry donovan 12 Jan 2020
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Cioch Direct.  Arrow Route.  Integrity.  Linked make a good day out from Coire Lagan

In reply to barry donovan:

Agreed. (I've done it). There's also a nice direct finish above the finish of Integrity that goes straight to the abrupt top of the crag, rather than up the rubbly ramp to the left.

 SouthernSteve 12 Jan 2020
In reply to barry donovan:

If you want something in Wales, the climbs on Craig yr ysfa are quite long if you want some long mountain days out e.g. Amphitheatre Buttress is about 300m. Although they seem quite short when compared to those above. 

 Mike-W-99 12 Jan 2020
In reply to barry donovan:

> Cioch Direct.  Arrow Route.  Integrity.  Linked make a good day out from Coire Lagan

Dont know if thats the longest but its extremely good nonetheless. 

Post edited at 20:43
In reply to Mike-W-99:

Yes, probably the highest quality very long proper rock climb, as opposed to a hard scramble, in the UK (esp. with finish I mentioned earlier). But, of course, on Sron na Ciche you can always piece together harder and possibly better integrals (e.g. linking Cioch Grooves with Trophy Crack .. which looks brilliant).

 Alpenglow 12 Jan 2020
In reply to stack:

Fionn Buttress (VS 4c)

Fionn Buttress is fairly long at 11 pitches.

Bonus that Carnmore is such a magical place to visit.

 gooberman-hill 13 Jan 2020
In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Yeah - this is an utterly awesome day out. Done it a number of times. Cioch Grooves (HVS 5a) is such a fabulous varied route, and Trophy Crack (E1 5b)  is beautiful - a great E1!

Steve


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