In reply to MrRiley:
Excellent, that brought back vivid memories of my only trip there, late eighties. We did Hammer and i took my second ever fall just after the scoop. Went off route, i think, was still serving my apprenticeship in slab climbing.
Got back down to find everyone else leaving. Brilliant, we thought, got the place to ourselves. Such niaivety! Well, we got half way up Spartan before they descended on us. There was Dave, half way up a pitch with no gear and me, writhing around on the belay while wiping the b*****s off my neck. My hand had turned black. Put me off Scotland for years.
On the plus side, we discovered that if you drive at high speed down Glen Etive with the sunroof open, the wind seems to suck the little b******s straight out through the hole!
I do quite fancy going back to Etive (the Pinch Direct looks brilliant). Just not in June....